I am looking to get into shooting wood arrows. Just trying to get close to the carbons I am shooting spine wise.
I currently shoot a 47lb longbow at my draw of 27"s. I shoot 29" Easton axis trad .500's with 250 up front.
I am thinking a 53-55# woody at 29" with a 145-160 grain tip would be close?
Can anyone help with this conversion?
I use a fast flight string too which I know can make a difference sometimes.
If your longbow is cut proud of center and you're shooting a dacron string, 50-55# will be pretty close. Why do you want to leave 2 inches behind the broadhead for your 27-inch draw? 50-55# would be even better if they were cut to 28 inches, I think. If you're shooting a low-stretch string, could probably go up another 5#.
I like a 29" arrow for aiming references but I have shot 28" arrows just fine too. So you think 55-60's cut at 28 with a 145-160 grain tip? The bow is cut to center.
i shoot 55-60 cut 29.5 with 125 gn heads out of a 47lb long bow drawn to 28.5
also shoot 60-65 out of same bow same specs except with 160 gn heads
hope this helps
should add that bow is cut 1/16 past ctr
I generally add 10-15# of spine weight over bow weight for 160 grain broadheads. That seems to work well. [attachment=1] [attachment=2]
When you buy spined wood shafts they are spined to be a 28" arrow with a 125gr. head. Any deviation from that will change the dynamic spine of the arrow. For each 1" over or under 28" you subtract or add 5# of spine weight. For each 25gr over or under 125gr point will subtract or add to the dynamic spine by 5#.
If you cut them to 28 inches, the 50-55# should work well. If you cut them to 29 inches, 55-60# would likely work better. Could always try a test kit -- 55-60-65. Once you get them dialed in, the specs won't change. Good luck.
Orion;
Using your calculations my arrows spine out all 68# which is right near bow weight. I figured this out over a couple years. Blind hog, and acorn kinda thing. [attachment=1]
All the above is good advice, 9 shocks. Figure what length and point weight you want, figure it up with these rules of thumb and suggestions, and you'll be good to go. Tweaking is always pretty easy with point weight, side plate thickness, and a few twists for brace height. If necessary.
One more thing to consider is the total arrow weight you want. Different woods, and different sets within a given spine range, will vary widely. I always check with vendors to see if they have the weight range I'm looking for, rather than just ordering, say, "a set of 50-55 premiums".
It's often a challenge for me to get the arrow weight down to 10GPP for my bows in the 40#s (with 125 points), Sitka Spruce can get me there sometimes. But rarely Doug Fir... these usually bring me up to 11GPP or higher, even with light sets.