What is the recommended adhesive to secure carbon arrow tip inserts? Was thinking of using barge cement. Would appreciate any comments.
I still use Goat Tuff which is pretty much super glue but doesn't dry as brittle.
We have found Goattuff and AAE max bond to be the best. I have yet have an insert come out!
I have also been told Cool flex is good on carbon as well. I just got some new glues in! I will be trying cool flex on my testers to see how it preforms.
We just re stocked our adhesives. :goldtooth:
I been using JB weld a 2 part epoxy haven't had any problems. You can get it at any hardware.
JB x2
i use the same hot melt glue I use on my woodies. Easy to remove or fine tune if want a particular blade orientation or remove if thread gets damaged or you want to try a different or heavier insert etc. Just need to clean the inside of the shaft and don't use too much heat on the shaft.
If worried about over heating the shaft then insert a field point into the insert and focus more heat on the point until it transfers enough heat to the insert to melt the glue then insert into the shaft. I use my broad heads on the inserts so I can rotate them the way I want.
Yup deerfly..
X's 2
I use Big Jim's hot melt works great and you can remove the inserts with a little heat on the points. Look up his site and watch his video on useing it.
I also use it on aluminum and wood.
I've posted this before but anyway, the key to making carbons bulletproof is to prep the shafts correctly and to use the strongest slow cure epoxy you can find.
When carbons are made they are wrapped on a mandrel, so a release agent is used on the mandrel so they can be pulled off. You have to clean and really abrade the inside of the shaft. I use a small piece of rolled up sandpaper and abrade the inside of the shaft until carbon dust starts appearing, then clean w alcohol or thinner.
I then glue them with Smooth On epoxy and let dry at least a day. Prepped this way they are so much more durable, I usually don't even foot them. Sure those other glues will work if you shoot nothing but targets, but sooner or later you're going to miss and hit something hard.
I would venture to say that the guys that complain about carbons mushrooming on the front end are the same ones who use hot melt or superglue or don't take the time to prep the shaft properly. A friend and I spent years developing indestructable arrows for stumping and this is what we found. If you want to make them even more bulletproof, foot the tip and nock end with a small section of alum prepped and glued the same way. We can shoot those hard petrified stumps without damage. Let me close by saying that a carbons durability is only as strong as the glue bond at the tip.
I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy on carbon insert and gluing broadheads on broadhead adapters works awesome. I now use it to glue my broadheads on my wood arrows.
Barge cement really isn't the adhesive to use. If you want a permanent bond, use an epoxy like those already mentioned. If you want a reversible bond, use a hot/soft/cool melt glue. The epoxy will also be a little stronger, helping to prevent shaft mushrooming behind the head on a hard hit.
Regardless, I've found carbon shafts are pretty tough, and I do a lot of experimenting with different front end weight combinations so I prefer the hot melt glues.
Big Jim's Quick Stick hot melt is the best insert glue on the planet!!!!!
Bisch
I prep my shafts with acetone and glue with loctite 24 hr cure epoxy. It is permanent and strong.
Big Jim's quick stick cause I change bows, arrows and points too much to make permanent.
I use JB Weld. For everything.
"Big Jim's Quick Stick hot melt is the best insert glue on the planet!!!!!" That's one of the most ridiculous comments I've heard in a while.
Quote from: deerfly on January 27, 2019, 09:05:23 AM
i use the same hot melt glue I use on my woodies. Easy to remove or fine tune if want a particular blade orientation or remove if thread gets damaged or you want to try a different or heavier insert etc. Just need to clean the inside of the shaft and don't use too much heat on the shaft.
If worried about over heating the shaft then insert a field point into the insert and focus more heat on the point until it transfers enough heat to the insert to melt the glue then insert into the shaft. I use my broad heads on the inserts so I can rotate them the way I want.
This
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I used insert iron for years but with trad I switch up stuff from time to time so it's nice to be able to remove the inserts if I want.
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Quote from: Dale in Pa on January 29, 2019, 04:30:38 PM
"Big Jim's Quick Stick hot melt is the best insert glue on the planet!!!!!" That's one of the most ridiculous comments I've heard in a while.
Rediculous as it may be, I have been using this glue for years, and never had one single insert come loose from an arrow. I use brass inserts, and the fact that I can remove and reuse those rather expensive inserts when needed makes the Quick Stick a better choice than ANY permanent glue!!!!
So there!!!!
Bisch
Currently I'm liking Goattuff "Impact".
Tedd
I bought an extra long stick of Easton hot melt from a local archery dealer years ago and if he no longer carries it I'll get Big Jim's. Hot melts have served me well and without fail and I like the ease of use.
Big Jim's on ALL field points , inserts and broad heads hands down the best.
I've had JB break the adhesion in cold weather. Look at a product called InsertWeld by 30-06. It is an instant type adhesive with a rubber additive to absorb shock. Very tough. No failures.
Golf shaft epoxy I get from Van's Golf Supply. It's a 2 part, slow cure type. I picked it cause I relate hitting a golf ball to a hard hit with an arrow. Glue needs to have some flex. I don't change inserts so don't care that glue is not reversible.
If you use 2 part epoxy don't use something that has been opened and laying around for years. I messed up a half dozen arrows using some old JB
ditto and mixing accuracy and thorough stirring are equally important. You can use very good epoxy and get sloppy mixing it and end up with a worse bond than if you used a lessor strength glue.
that said, hot melt has served me very well, haven't experienced a reason to change to something else.
Big Jim's got melt....melted
Big Jims hot glue or cool flex on carbon , hot glue has worked very well for me the past 30 years on all shaft material. the cane shafts are the only ones to give me a problem but only after several years of use and abuse.
I use 2 part golf club epoxy, really good stuff.
got it from golfsmith.
Quote from: Bisch on January 29, 2019, 07:54:11 PM
Quote from: Dale in Pa on January 29, 2019, 04:30:38 PM
"Big Jim's Quick Stick hot melt is the best insert glue on the planet!!!!!" That's one of the most ridiculous comments I've heard in a while.
Rediculous as it may be, I have been using this glue for years, and never had one single insert come loose from an arrow. I use brass inserts, and the fact that I can remove and reuse those rather expensive inserts when needed makes the Quick Stick a better choice than ANY permanent glue!!!!
So there!!!!
I am with the hot melt guys, never had a problem
Bisch
I use the same hot melt from Kustom King/Big Jim's. Tim Cosgrove from Kustom King turned me onto it years ago. NEVER had an insert come out and as said above you can change insert/point combination or save the expensive brass inserts if you break an arrow. I never prepped the Easton Axis shaft, just glued the insert in and good to go when it cooled.
This, from Kustom King website
[attachment=1]
If you use a belt or wheel type sharpener you can accidentally move a previously aligned head-adapter-insert that has been glued with hotmelt.
On the other hand you can re-heat a mis-aligned head for adjustment. Or turn all your blades the same way.
I do sharpen my Deltas with a belt sander/leather strop and have been liking the Goat Tuff for that reason.
Tedd