I've always been pleased with Daly's Profin as a finish for arrows.
Just read that the Seattle Times reported they are bankrupt...fake news?
Doing a search for Daly's I find the domain name is for sale! Anyone hear different?
I hope you're wrong thats my favorite wood arrow finish !
I certainly hope it isn't the case.
This site seems to work....not sure if it's the one you're looking for..
https://www.dalyswoodfinishes.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5
I'll call them today. The Times says they closed the Seattle and Bellevue locations and
had $87,000 in infilled customer orders.
jeesh...good idea to call for sure.
Just spoke with Farwest Paints rep. They bought out Daly's. Farwest had been making all Daly's products for them. So when Daly's get in financial problems Farwest bought them and the rights to all their formulas. One of Daly's owners son enough works at Farwest. :thumbsup: Same great products, just new owners.
I read that article too.
Just found if you go to just plain http://www.dalyswoodfinishes.com/
There is a note at the top that sounds promising...
"We are excited to announce that the full line of Daly's Wood Finishing Products will be available at Miller Paint in both their Ballard and Bellevue locations! This will make the Daly's Wood Finishing Products easily accessible to those customers who frequented the Seattle and Bellevue locations. As always, we are here to assist and can be reached at (206) 244-8844 -or- info@dalyswoodfinishes.com."
lol...you posted while I was researching.....GOOD DEAL!
If ProFin is ever discontinued I'll never makr a wood arrow again.
:thumbsup:
Maybe they will distribute their products outside the PNW, would be nice to be able to buy it locally.
You can order their products online.
FWIW a friend of mine figured out an epoxy finish based on Jay Massey's epoxy bow finish that is the best I've ever used on wood arrows...plus it's easy, cheap, and you can get everything you need at a hardware store.
I've posted it before, but here's the "recipe" again.
You can use different stains/dyes and different paints also.
Tom Kiessling's epoxy/acetone finish for arrows, and its
application.
1) First thing I do is stain shafts (I usually use aniline dyes from
Gray Ghost Archery). I only stain up to where the stain and crown
meet.
2) After stain dries, sand off any raised grain, then stain again
if necessary to achieve desired color.
3) If I don't have any epoxy formula made up, I use the following
procedure for that.
*I purchase Devcon 2-ton epoxy and a can of acetone from Wal-Mart
in the paint section. I use a 4 ounce baby food jar to squirt the
entire contents of epoxy in to. I then completely mix the 2 epoxy
parts until clear. I then add 1 ounce of acetone (1/2 jar) and
stir until the epoxy appears to have dissolved and looks only like
acetone remains. I then fill the jar with acetone and stir again
for a few seconds.*
4) Applied one coat of epoxy as described next.
*Always wear chemical resistant gloves, I use the blue Nitrate cloves
that the tools trucks (Snap-On, Mac) sell to local automotive and
diesel garage mechanics. I use small cotton rags from t-shirts.
Hold arrow at nock or point end, make one long continuous swipe
from end to end. Then rotate shaft 180 degrees and do again. (Do
not attempt to double wipe on same side, the rag will stick to
the first coat).*
5) After epoxy dries, check for raised grain. Sand if needed.
6) Apply second coat of epoxy.
7) I then spray the crowns on, (I usually use Krylon enamels, and usually 2 coats are
needed too).
8) After crown dries, apply cresting lines (Testors and Odds-n-Ends).
9) After crown and cresting are COMPLETELY dry, spray or brush the
crown and crestings with a thin coat of Min Wax Water Based
Polyacyrlic (blue can). I prefer to brush mine on.
10) After poly dries, apply second coat only if spraying on poly.
Brushing usually only requires one coat.
11) After letting poly dry an hour, apply first coat of epoxy over
entire shaft. Make sure to check wiping rag for paint residue
after first arrow to insure that acetone is not attacking cresting
and crown. If paint is being attacked, crest the arrow if
needed, and give another coat of poly over all arrows.
12) If all is ok, I will usually put on 4 to 6 coats of epoxy
DO NOT USE 5 MINUTE EPOXY. Dries way too fast.
The beauty of Profin is that it is perfect dipping consistency right out of the can. How does the homebrew option apply when you dip it?
Never tried dipping it. A single baby food jar is enough to do a few dozen arrows. Wiping it on is super quick and easy. It dries so fast, especially the first coat, that I don't figure it would work that great in a dip tube...and would likely harden long before you could use it up. Most durable finish I've ever used, little to no target burn, no special equipment required, and cheap.
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x409/manehonkie/20181103_165848.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/manehonkie/media/20181103_165848.jpg.html)
No dice then Chad, I am set in my dipping ways. It is expensive, especially shipped to Florida, but it is the best.
Quote from: snag on November 02, 2018, 10:03:11 PM
You can order their products online.
...and the shipping usually cost more than the goods.
I live in Oregon and the Profin comes out of
Washington. I ordered a quart on Friday at noon and it arrived late Saturday!
A quart will do many dozens of arrows when used in a dip tube. Shipping for me
was about $15.