i'm a fanatic for NOT handling gluing surfaces --edges only!--glass or wood
--clean building paper on bench-5 layers--used like tear-offs -when it gets too gluey-tear off-fresh surface
--clean dedicated stainless wire brush-used on all surfaces minutes before glue
--light but thorough sanding of glass-then a quick brushing
--a tall work surface is important to me as well-i do not want to be leaning over the glue-up-one drop of sweat-spit-whatever drops off you could contaminate [imagine at drop at the fade!]
---humidity---LOW!! as i can get it!! AC is your friend!
---FRESHLY GROUND surfaces!!--for me-never more than a few days--but i prefer same day
---glue mixed thoroughly!!---then again--then while using--i'll run my knife around the cup again
---your thoughts?
My thought— excellent except the tall bench cause I'm not tall! LOL just kiddin...
What does anybody do about wiping with acetone? I don't , but like you I handle edges only and fresh lams only. That's also why I custom grind customer lams just before shipping .
Wood oxidizes and I don't like that for glue, no proof that it hurts adhesion but I don't like it.
I lightly sand all glue surfaces with 80-120 right before glue up and blow off with compressor. The only thing I wipe down is the glass(with acetone).
I don't worry about handling edges only. I wear latex gloves while sanding, then put fresh gloves on for glue up.
I don't use glass but I do wipe down the wood lams with denatured alcohol.
Acetone on glass only. Have seen some nasty stuff on glass before and only acetone would clean it.
I follow a similar protocol.
Clear my bench of all items not directly related to glue up. Sweep/vacuum work surface. I have a large, tall work table for glue up. 96"X30". 40" tall.
Tape down masking paper 18" wide. Assemble all my clamps, epoxy, measuring cups, etc where they are readily accessible.
Roll out shrink wrap film onto bow form.
I like to grind my lams just a day or two before glue up so they don't oxidize (as others have mentioned). I personally am a big believer in wiping everything down with acetone, particularly when working with oily exotics.
Use a clean rag, folded into quarters, only wiping one glue surface per folded side of the rag. Wipe in one direction only. This keeps me from re-depositing any wood chips, fuzz, or debris back onto the freshly cleaned lams and glass.
I like what we call PHC's for gloves. Plumber's Hand Condoms. ;) These are like the regular blue latex gloves, but they are thicker and solvent resistant. They will stand up to acetone and they don't tear easily, but still allow for fine parts handling.
I then turn on my oven and make sure I have a clear, unobstructed path to it. (I have only a small shop so I have to play a lot of musical chairs with my tools and equipment). Then I mix my epoxy. I tend to keep stirring it as I work too.
I assemble everything on the bench and then put it all on the form, fold the shrinkwrap around it all, apply the pressure strips, and clamp it all down. Yes, I know I'm the odd man out, but I like clamps.
Then, it's into the oven. I clean up the bench again immediately so I have a place for the bow to land when it comes out of the oven.
The number one, most important thing to have is a Checklist... You don't want to be running around doing extra things while at 'Glue Up'... If you have a new bow form, always dry fit before actual glue up...
Clean surfaces, well mixed adhesive and scrape the stick and sides of container well while mixing, clean work area, wash hands well with soap before the start of the whole cleaning and glue up process, Make sure all distractions are taken care of (putting up the dog or wife because they can sometimes cause problems at the most inopportune times) , remember to turn on music before glue up...
His and her's proper attire before Glue-Up...
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
Might be a little overkill Shredd ;)
However, you are completely correct about putting up the dog or wife (especially the wife) before glue up. They both have a knack for wandering out to the shop (Shrine to testosterone) when you're right in the middle of something time sensitive....... ;)
Probably should wear a condom too, Shredd. Never can be too protected. :biglaugh:
When I make glass bows, I go through a similar regimen, but it's a pain in the butt to do all that stuff, makes me feel more like a mad scientist or chemist than a bowyer... some of the reasons I prefer working on selfbows.
But when working with wood lams, I prefer to do like Kenny, fresh grind, and glue up same day, no solvents on wood.
I clean the ground side of the glass with denatured alcohol.
Cant add much........ but I lay a new layer of newspaper over table after each lay up of epoxy spread to keep things non sticky
Quote from: Holm-Made on September 11, 2018, 02:44:43 PM
Probably should wear a condom too, Shredd. Never can be too protected. :biglaugh:
I'll have to add that to the check list... :biglaugh:
i used to tape the building paper --then i mounted these on each end-easy clean up and tape gets more expensive every time i buy it!!
[attachment=1]
Only thing I can add is that I run over the wood lams lightly with a heat gun right before glue up just to ensure I drive out any moisture because of our high humidity in Texas.
I also have a mixing spoon that I rigged for my cordless drill that really mixes the epoxy up very well!! I mix by hand first for several minutes and make sure i scrape the sides really good then go to the drill. I then transfer to a clean cup before glue up.
I realize this may all be overkill but I'm a HUGE fan of overkill so I don't mind! Lol
Going to a clean cup after mixing well is about as close as you can get to not have any unmixed adhesive in the works... Nothing wrong with over-kill like that... :thumbsup:
i have been mixing up in these style plastic tumblers---easy to scrape while mixing-and see unmixed hardener ---and cheap![attachment=1,msg2819716]
transfering to a clean cup after mixing is an excellent idea rich
Credit goes to Critter for that one... I know about the method but I don't do it... I scrape the bottom and sides and stick thoroughly when mixing and I just try to not use any adhesive from the bottom or sides when applying...
Good idea withe the clear cup though... I might have to try that... Those little tits at the bottom of the cup look to be on the inside though... I don't like that... leaves room for trapped unmixed resin...
but you can see it--and get to it with a putty knife-
If you can source them...... the plastic cups that most grocery stores use in their deli dept are clear and don't have those speed bumps.