How do you stop a tie-on nock from moving?
People who want the string nock to be adjustable will choose one such as this one made by Ryan Sanpei:
http://youtu.be/j8EghWvyUcA (http://youtu.be/j8EghWvyUcA)
He explains how to make it tight enough to not slip, but loose enough that it can be adjusted. You could also put a dab of super glue on it when you get it where you want it.
Or, if you don't want a moveable knot, you could use mine, that is shown in the "How to - Resources" section of this forum. I guarantee it won't slip, and you don't need any super glue.
Here is a video i made a while back. I still use this knot on all customers strings and haven't gotten any complaints.
https://youtu.be/W-htegFSyps
There are a few key factors to tying an adjustable knot that will still move.
1) size of material.
I know most people say you want something larger than what you're using, but I haven't found that to be true. When I serve a string, I am typically using PowerGrip .032 as serving and using PowerGrip .021 for my nocking points. Now, you don't want to use something so small that it slides in the groves completely between the serving, but you do want it to be smaller imo.
2) Stiffness of material.
The stiffer the material, the more easily it will be able to move. I can use a softer .021 serving like sx and not move it nearly as easy as I can move the Power Grip. It's due to the stiffness of the material. My all time favorite material to use is the power grip. A good cheap compromise is BCY's nocking point material. It is relatively stiff, but about 1/3-1/4 the price of the power grip.
For anything material related I would contact Chad Weaver (LBR) on here. I would bet you anything he has some short spools that could be sold at a good price.
If you need anything, let me know.
God Bless,
Daniel
I actually use short pieces of epoxy coated shrink tube for knocking points. To move them you just heat them slightly with a lighter and slide them where you want them
If you're looking to leave them permanent, nail polish
I use my left over b50 for my nocking points and use the same method as R. Sanpei. I like the dacron because I can pull it really tight but it has enough give to avoid separating the serving. I would advise against using any type of adhesive on the nocks. If it penetrates the serving you will create a weak spot in the string.
If the last post is talking about nail polish I've gotta beg to differ. Sounds like if this is so the poster hasn't actually tried.
Since the 70s or maybe earlier, this trick has been used, sometimes on heavy recurve/longbows, it's actually a standard when tying in items on a compound. Never once has it weakened a string. Id think some of the high performance compounds may stress a string more than a recurve but I'm not sure how you'd measure that. All in all it's more than safe.
Idk about real adhesives as I've never used them n perhaps that's what the poster was referring to. Just wanted to clarify. Hope he doesn't mind
I was mainly talking about super glue. Glues are made to penetrate gaps and will mess up the string. Nail polish is a lacquer and should only sit on the surface.
I have never had one move and I don't glue them in place with anything. I use B50 and tie it snugly and the thread seems to just mesh enough with the bowstring to stay put and yet does not separate the serving.
I can't believe how long ago I did this tutorial. Time Flies! This is definitely not an adjustable nocking point and it might seem like a little much too some.
In searching the "How To Forum" I found at least 4 or 5 more nocking point tutorials. Check it out I'm sure you'll find a method that suits you. :thumbsup:
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108909.0 (http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108909.0)
Shooting three under, with an 800 grain + arrow, from a 75lb longbow, I found the bottom nock would always end up moving. I tried any and every string nock knot I could find, but for some reason, they all would end up starting to creep down the serving.
That was until I found Charlie's little tutorial he mentioned above. That nock point looked perfect, so I tried it. Now, after literally thousands of shots, it simply has not moved. Set it and forget it.
Got it on both my bows and have never had an issue there again. Thanks Charlie.
Best
Lex