I'm about ready to pull my hair out. I've been shooting extremely well all year. I put broadheads on and all of a sudden shoot high right 4" consistently. I mean I have a tennis ball hole in my bh target. I tried some stiffer shafts. Re paper tuned. And still high right. Foots be me? But really focusing on form. Any help? Thanks
Are your broadheads aligned straight?
It's not unheard of for arrows to react SLIGHTLY weaker due to the length of the broadhead. It has the effect of lengthening the arrow. But you say you've tried stiffer shafts.
I had trouble shooting right a few years ago. Turns out I was leaning over the arrow too much. My eye was to the right of the arrow. I discovered this by drawing in front of a mirror. If your eye isn't lined up with the arrow, the arrow and its reflection will not be pointing at each other.
Can't help you with the high part.
This is a tuning issue, that's why I moved it out of the shooters form board to here.
If you're canting your bow to the right, could be a nock height adjustment. If you are canting, try shooting with bow completely vertical and see if they just move to being high. Lots of little things get masked shooting field tips and show up as a bigger problem with broadheads.
You didn't say how the bare shaft flies. I'd start there. RH shooter/broadhead hitting right is usually weak shaft.
Are you pushing the string tight into your face by chance?
you been shooting fine so ur form's good
tried stiffer shafts and that didnt work
only thing left is the broad heads...so that's where id look
try turning the cock feather in and see what happens
I would bet that it is the visual difference, even if you are not acknowledging the arrow.
I had one of my bows that would shoot field tips perfectly and when I shot the broad head the arrow would porpoise.
I moved my nock point up a little and that fixed it.
Could be what you have going on there. :dunno:
Thanks for all the suggestions. I will try some out for sure. And I do not bareshaft with broadheads.
Years back, I had some sniffers that would group 4"s right. My bareshafts shot spot on with my field point fletcher shafts at 20 yards .
I lowered the brace hit approximately 3/16"s and then the bare shaft, fletched field pt tipped shaft and the BH arrow consistently shared the same mark.
Today, I bareshaft tune out 35 to 40 yards. My BH's consistently share the same mark without any further adjustment.
here is my take on bareshafting.
i am a firm advocate for bareshafting and totally believe in it....done correctly.
one of the biggest problems with bareshafting is that many proponents of the technique insist that you shoot with your bow totally vertical, to avoid "false readings "on the target face.
i naturally shoot with my bow canted, my form is consistent, and accurate thus. now for me to change the angle of my bow for different shots, when in the field is not a problem, however when tuning, and i am chasing the finer details, i find trying to shoot vertically does affect my form.
when bareshafting you should have a large piece of paper with a vertical and a horizontal line( crosshairs) over your target- i find that really helps with analyzing the shot.
so to counter this canting this when bareshafting, i simply cant my target over to match the cant on my bow, and in the initial short-range bareshafting, i find the effects of gravity almost negligible compared to the effects produced by the bow and the arrow.
just what works for me.
just throwing the following thoughts out there, some are obvious, and they may or may not help.
are they 2 or 3 blade heads
i assume you are Right handed, as you made no mention of being a south paw
are the BH's long by design.
if 2 bladers are they vented or solid,
if 2 or 4 bladers are they all attached to the shafts in the same plane( really minor and in well tuned setups, this should not be a significant issue)
have you checked the broadheads weight on a grain scale compared to you field points.
you didnt say if they were wood or carbon, , but are the points spinning true when you spin the shafts on a spin tester( if they werent, the broadheads may be erratic- not consistantly high and right).
cheers.
and please let us know what you find, so we can store that info in our memory banks- nothing like vicarious tuning :biglaugh: