I can't sharpen these grizzled to save my life.
Me either! That's why I stick with double bevels!
Bisch
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There's two bevels on single bevels too, at least there is on mine and my friends, just the second one is basically a silver hair of a bevel, makes the edge more durable. Don't push too hard or the blade will flex and throw you off. They still spin through the target. Grizzlies are super hard to set the grind on. Belt sander with 400 grit makes it a breeze though!
I just got in a grizzly, bruin and kodiak to finish out my big broadhead test. One of my tests will be difficulty to sharpen. The grizzly heads seem like a much rougher grind than tuffhead, steelforce or cutthroat but they are still much better than my tuskers. The tuffhead, steelforce and cutthroat will all shave right out of the package
I had to buy a KME knife sharpener to get the perfect edge on a grizzly, but I'm now very glad that I did.
I bought the stay sharp guide from 3 rivers and it worked perfectly the first time I tried it and I'm very inexperienced in sharpening. Good luck!
with a KME sharpener, I've found grizzly single bevels to be the easiest thing I've ever sharpened. Quick and simply shaving edge.
Another vote for the KME. Although I use multiple two and three blade heads for hunting, Grizzlies are always in my quiver. They do come rough, there is no denying that but they are worth the little extra work IMHO.
The KME broadhead sharpener and a really good agressive course stone is what I use to set the initial angles on the grizzlies. The older ones were way off, but I hear the new ones actually come with a burr on them. The trick is to true up the flat side first with the edge of the stone. Then stay on the angled side until you have a burr the entire length. You are now 90% done sharpening. Just knock the burr off the backside and progress through as fine of stone or paper that you'd like. Ron at KME will actually stay on the phone with you until you have one hair popping sharp. Great guy, great product, and great customer service---that's KME.
P.S.---I'm sure there are other ways to get them sharp, but this is the only way that I have found success. Also finish by stropping with leather or cardboard.
Chris once you get past the learning curve it's all good. Or, PM me. You can send them to me and I'll sharpen them for you.
Quote from: Yooper-traveler on June 20, 2018, 11:42:26 AM
Chris once you get past the learning curve it's all good. Or, PM me. You can send them to me and I'll sharpen them for you.
And that is why I love being a part of this family! :clapper: :thumbsup:
Single bevels aren't any harder to sharpen than doubles,they just have two less bevels.I do go to the flat,backside with a fine hone,occasionally,to remove any burr.
http://www.singlebevelbroadheads.com/Honing%20the%20Tuffhead.html
I gave up as well. Figured that if I have to buy a special sharpener, then it doesn't belong in my pack.
I may revisit it later. But for now, I'm sticking with what I know & can do easily.
Strangely, a well-sharpened single bevel will roll down my arm like a butter knife one day and shave a patch clean the next. Don't know why but the same blade has different results for the shave test. Doubles shave me every time. Must be my wife's girly soaps or something. Whatever the case, it makes it hard to have confidence in my singles with those inconsistent test results off the same darned blade.
I agree in part with YosemiteSam. I couldn't get a consistent, shaving sharp, smooth edge unless I used some type of bulky sharpening "tool" on them that I didn't want to lug around in the field. So, I used a 6 inch file on them just like I used on my Zwickey bhs. They would slice paper like crazy and easily cut rubber bands with this edge. I even harvested 3 or 4 deer with them through out the years with overall satisfactory results. (Sometimes good bloodtrails, sometimes not much...some times outstanding penetration, sometimes less than what I expected) I have noticed a "rolled" or "wavy" edge on several of them after taking a deer. I don't know if that is because I filed sharpened them or what, but I have never experienced that with a Zwickey double bevel. You may say, "So what? You got your deer, didn't you?" and you would be correct, but I prefer not to have that. I think (just my opinion) that the edge is too thin and that leads to the deformation I experienced. I don't shoot 650 grain arrows out of my 43 pound bow and I'm not expecting to shoot through any shoulder blades with any broadhead so I don't really see that much of an advantage over my Zwickeys. I wish now I hadn't unloaded my stash of Eskimos :banghead: Oh well, I see some Lean, Mean, Green, Deer Getting Machines, in my future! (Zwickey No Mercy's that is!) :thumbsup:
The bevel is more acute on a single bevel than a double bevel. That should make them easier to get sharp(er). But, as you point out, unless it's good steel, a very acute edge is prone to turning over a bit, particularly if it hits bone. Even when that happens, they're still sharp enough to get the job done. Regardless, I've never had difficulty getting them sharp, nor have I had trouble with the edges staying sharp. This is for Abowyer single bevels. Don't know about others.
Lean, Mean, Green,
That's funny because I'm having that put on my current bow being built! :laughing: :laughing:
Haven't you heard that "great minds think alike"? :bigsmyl:
I emailed Mike at Maddog just yesterday morning and asked him to put that on the bottom limb of my bow. It is being built with the green glass. I have a green arm guard coming from ST. Jude's and a GN quiver in green coming also. I'm calling it the "Goblin Project". :biglaugh:
Sounds sweet! Make sure you post some pictures when you get it!
:thumbsup:
Easiest blades to sharpen that I have ever had. I use a 3 sided jewelstick and strop them on leather.
Wouldn't mind finding a 1.5" cut single bevel in the 150-175 weight for a screw in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5umxVy7uhLM
This worked for me!
-Jeremy
https://youtu.be/igLHxLtBARA
Do it the way this guy teaches and never had an issue.
The greatest tricked I learned about the KME is not to bear down too hard. Smooth even strokes seem to work best whatever sharpening method is used. For some reason, though, broadheads are just more difficult overall to sharpen than knives, at least for me.
Every time I sharpen a new head, the same question comes to mind. Is it really necessary to have super hard steel since it is literally a one shot deal? If it holds up for that one shot, all is well. For example, the old Razor Heads work just fine without being so difficult to sharpen - just look at Fred Bear's accomplishments. That characteristic is one of the reasons I like Zwickey. Easy to sharpen. I don't mean to put down anybody's choice of heads, but it seems that this topic gets more hype than is necessary. I might change my mind if I can ever get the super hard steels scary sharp.
Should be able to sharpen a single bevel with the same tool you sharpen double bevels. Some times the roll is not thinned down enough and I have been guilty of trying to break it only to wind up with a dull blade. The edge should "wire" off. Hope I make sense. While sharpening the rolled edge should start to detach by its self, once its off all u need is to strop it on leather or what ever for a hair popping edge. The new grizzly's are very easy to sharpen. KME is a great sharpener and great product.
Gilbert
I will be using a kme broadhead sharpener on all the broadheads in my upcoming tests with the exception of the alien broadheads, the bevel angle on them will not match up with the kme no matter how i adjust it
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108942.0
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Yup they are up for sale on me if you want em
Took me a looong time to figure out how to hand sharpen single bevels with a file too.
Never did get a perfect smooth edge.
In fact I ended up using one particular file that would give me a micro toothed edge that was sharp as heck and cut raw steak like butter, so I went with that for a while.
Switched to 3 blade VPA's, learned how to sharpen them very quickly. I don't foresee myself using anything other than 3 blades again.
I think almost all sharpening difficulties are from too much pressure being applied. The weight of the item being sharpened is all the pressure that is required to sharpen any broadhead or knife. It just takes a while. Once you know what you are doing you can apply more weight to hog off more material faster if needed.