samick sage , 45 pounds with xx75 2016 29 inches long with 125 gran tips. What am I doing wrong.
I'm not sure,but I have a similar set with more weight up front. Might be too stiff.
They may be a bit stiff. May be your form. What's your brace height? Arrows could be smacking off the side plate.
Right or left handed?
right handed BH is 8 inches
Alright, here's my mental checklist when I have stuff flying way right.
1. Are you plucking the release? (your hand should slide back tight to your bicep after the shot, not out away from the face)
2. Are you flinching, jerking, or otherwise moving your head/hands/ shoulders around at the shot? (imagine you're a statue when you release the arrow)
3. Maaaaybe your tune is off... (usually I'm the cause of the problem, but not always) The violent kick sounds like the arrow is either way too weak, or super stiff and giving a false weak reading. In this case, it sounds like a false weak reading. Try bumping up 100 grains of point weight and see what happens.
Just to make sure we're all on the same page, when you say "kicking to the right," do you mean landing to the right, or nock to the right, landing to left?
Yes Sir kicking hard right and point goes left. WAY worse with broadheads. No issues at all with my long bow so I fell my form is ok.
It sounds like your arrows are too stiff. The broadheads verified this. You can try drastically increasing point weight (200 gr +).
My hunch is that with your set up and current results you will find .600 spine arrows a good match. Always start w full length shafts, bareshaft and only cut back a quarter inch at a time. Assuming your form is solid ( a must prior to tuning), you will find quite a difference with the correct arrows.
I agree. Im a compound guy so this recurve thing is new to me. I assumed a 2016 would be perfect for a 45 pound bow but then again my DL isnt what I thought it would be so I guess the bow is only 40ish. She a pleasure to shoot I cant beleive what you can get with such little money.
I'm with Trumpkin's ideas. Plucking, or too stiff an arrow, will have the arrow kicking right from hitting the side plate.
I'll also hear it in these cases, and see the wear on the side plate.
Point going left is an indication of stiff spine for a right hander.
My 40ish recurve likes 1916's. I tried 4 different brands of carbons, two different spines including 600. Even shot from a raised rest. Mine are cut to 28" with 125 grain points. I may draw 27 1/2 with this bow.
I agree, if sticking to alums 1916 should be about right. They spine .623 compared to your 2016s which are .531. again, start full length and tune to the desired point weight.
I shoot 1816's with125 points out of a 45.lb recurve. They fly great.the arrow i the target was twenty yds. I have a short DL 26.5 shooting three under yost tab
Another believer in too stiff.
My 45 lb. recurve likes 1916s, cut to 30", with 125 gr tips.
2016s at 30-1/2" with 125 gr did well with field points, but broadheads got a little erratic.
all just my opinion but with new shooters I recommend over weighting the front a bit more and see what happens first so spin a 200 on there OR unscrew your 125 and then spin it back on thru a few washers or anything to get some weight we don't care if it sticks in we need to see the nock in flight,,, 45# wont snap a 2016 so see what it does but if he is plucking he needs to fix that first. draw back with the string barely on your fingers where it feels like its going to slip off,,, hold bow perfectly vertical and relax hand to shoot, do not move the bow hand at all,,, forget about accuracy just watch the arrow.
out of the gate though I would spin on a 175 and work up from there... I have a 48# ST Charles Tbird with a Dacron string and I use 200gr + insert on 1916's that are 2" longer than my normal BOP,, they don't even need fletching out to 20yds..
I used 1916's with 150gr up front on my 45# bows. (Drew 28"). Add my name to the spine issue list
Is your arm getting slapped, too? If so, then the string might be slowing a bit, giving a false stiff reading. The slap also tweaks the bow to point a bit left. At 20 yards, if I get slapped, the arrow hits about 6-8" left.
Might also just be a spine issue. But it's worth a few quick shots, focusing on your grip & such before spending any cash on new shafts or heads.
I shoot a very similar set up. One piece Sage, 42# at my 27" draw. Arrows are 28" to back of point, 125gr points. Shooting off the shelf.
B-50 string needs 1816's.
FF string needs 1916's.
Perfect flight with either shaft, depends on the string.
If your draw length is 28" and the bow is correctly marked 45# @ 28" you can try the following before referring to the spine chart. Start by determining if the arrow is left or right of a vertical line. Draw a vertical line on paper or cardboard, then stand 10 ft and look down the shaft at the vertical line. If the arrow is left and the arrow is stiff and vise versa. Since the arrows are cut to 29", build the rest out by adding tape, and/or add weight in increments of 25 grains to the point, and repeat the process until you are hitting the vertical line. If you are right, the arrow is weak, and you can try a lighter point, or a stiffer spine. Once you find the right arrow and assuming you want to try paper tuning, start with the information from Elite Arrow. If you want to check and compare arrow spine, checkout the chart at 3Rivers. According to their chart for 45 - 50 lbs. your choice includes C-D which is shown below as a 1916 or 2013. I would recommend skipping the 2013 unless you know how to straighten arrows. The 1918 is a little heavier and about the same spine. Here are two links for more information.
http://elitearrows.com/proper-arrow/
https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf
Quote from: Trumpkin the Dwarf on June 07, 2018, 10:09:48 PM
Alright, here's my mental checklist when I have stuff flying way right.
This
1. Are you plucking the release? (your hand should slide back tight to your bicep after the shot, not out away from the face)
2. Are you flinching, jerking, or otherwise moving your head/hands/ shoulders around at the shot? (imagine you're a statue when you release the arrow)
3. Maaaaybe your tune is off... (usually I'm the cause of the problem, but not always) The violent kick sounds like the arrow is either way too weak, or super stiff and giving a false weak reading. In this case, it sounds like a false weak reading. Try bumping up 100 grains of point weight and see what happens.
This