What is your guys favorite adhesive to use on a glue on broadhead to your wood taper? I don't like hotmelt as im always unsure if i will wreck the heat treat or not as I like to heat points up quite a bit. I tried gorilla glue unsuccessfully. I hear 2 part epoxies are the way to go?
beats me I have never used anything other than hotmelt. I prefer the brand big jim sells.
You would need to way overheat the Broadhead to effect the temper. It only requires a nice warming up to melt hot melt.
I too use Big Jims hot melt.
Quote from: gsurko on April 13, 2018, 04:31:33 PM
You would need to way overheat the Broadhead to effect the temper. It only requires a nice warming up to melt hot melt.
It always harderns to quickly before I can seat them nice and proper. I haven't used big jims though
A couple reason why I like the the hot melt big jim sells is that is melts at a much lower temp that standard hotmelt. I also find it to be more stable, and what I mean by that is that is does not become brittle after time or in cold weather. If you broadheads are not seated correctly before the hotmelt cools just hit them with a lighter for a few seconds and keep twisting them. If you are afraid to hit them with the flame, use steam from a tea pot or electric kettle. Like mentioned before you have to get the crazy hot to change the temper, and you will know you got the hotmelt too hot if it starts to smoke.
I personally worry more about not getting the glue/metal hot enough to bond well with each other.
If you don't get it seated right before the glue sets up, just warm it a little more and redo it. No need to take the point off, just warm it and rotate/push the taper into the head ferrule. You should have a spinner handy so you can spin the shafts to make sure the points are on straight. Heat and adjust as necessary.
Ferr-L-Tite hot melt for ALL broadheads and other points on wood.
I use a heat-gun clamped in a vice to apply the heat.
Quote from: Stumpkiller on April 13, 2018, 11:07:11 PM
Ferr-L-Tite hot melt for ALL broadheads and other points on wood.
I use a heat-gun clamped in a vice to apply the heat.
That is a great idea!! I have aheat gun for the hardwood shafts even.
I use hot melt glue with good success. There is no need to heat a point to an especially high temperature. You only need to get it hot enough to soften the glue enough to apply it to the desired surface.
I used the heat gun last week and prefer it. Much cleaner.
I use epoxy and I clean the inside of the head first with a tapered brush spun by my drill . I sometimes use ferrel tite but it is more messy and you have to work quick to get the broad head on straight . I don't like the paint burned off my heads .
XXX222 on Big Jim's hot melt. I have used apoxy in the past, Big Jim's is the best I have used.
Gorilla glue if you want more time to get thing just right.
I use Devcon epoxy 2 ton epoxy for years both carbon and now wood I can heat points up and remove them and it hold well. I have not lost a broadhead or field point in target.
X 10 on big Jim's hot melt. Bought some a few yrs back at ETAR. A little goes along way
Works great on alum/carbon inserts too.
Big Jim's and moderate heat for me, too. I use a simple alcohol burner for heat, it's clean, quiet, and efficient.
And be sure to let your points are held on straight when seated, until the glue cools... it will often back the point out a little otherwise. (I like to hold it with pliers, or just apply direct downward pressure on a firm surface to seat it, then run a little cool water over the head).
I don't know why anyone would use anything other than Big Jim's hot melt for any point/insert on any type arrow. It is the best thing since sliced bread as far as point/insert glue goes!!!!
Bisch
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Ferr-L-tite a torch and a Dixon Broadhead spinner/aligner.
I've also used a heat gun which works fine, either will keep your hot melt warm enough to adjust as necessary. If you are overheating broadheads then you are doing it wrong, you are gluing, not forging.
I was using the Ferrl-Tite until I ran out. It was recommended that I try the Kimsha melt from 3Rivers so I bought some...I believe this is the same stuff Big Jim sells? Have not used it yet, though.
Ferrl-tite can get brittle in the cold weather.
How cold? I been to some pretty chilly spots to hunt, like MT & AK. Have you ever had a head come off due to being brittle because of being cold? I haven't and I have never met anyone who has, but if I did my question would be what were you shooting to make it come loose? Surely not a live animal... I hear this come up from time to time but nobody has ever had this happen, it's always I heard a guy say that he knew a guy who's brother in-law did. I have been using Ferr-L-Tite for my whole shooting life without issue, I'll be 61 in about 3 weeks and started shooting at 5, some time after giving up Ironweed arrows and hickory limb bows I started gluing on field tips at 8-10.
Well, I can say this about Big Jim's vs Ferrul-tite: when I used FT, I would occasionally have field points come off in targets. Not all the time, but often enough to be annoying!
Since I have been using Big Jim's, I have never had a single point come off a wood arrow, or lost a single insert from a carbon arrow in a target!
That is enough proof to me that Big Jim's is better.
I can't speak for broad heads on wood shafts, as I don't hunt with wood arrows much at all!
Bisch
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Quote from: David McLendon on April 18, 2018, 12:30:59 AM
How cold? I been to some pretty chilly spots to hunt, like MT & AK. Have you ever had a head come off due to being brittle because of being cold? I haven't and I have never met anyone who has, but if I did my question would be what were you shooting to make it come loose? Surely not a live animal... I hear this come up from time to time but nobody has ever had this happen, it's always I heard a guy say that he knew a guy who's brother in-law did. I have been using Ferr-L-Tite for my whole shooting life without issue, I'll be 61 in about 3 weeks and started shooting at 5, some time after giving up Ironweed arrows and hickory limb bows I started gluing on field tips at 8-10.
David;
Zero to 20F. Below freezing. I had several Zwickey Eskimos come off in a McKenzie 3D deer and I've lost a couple field points the same way. Also lost a few field points while stumping during summer temperatures, with the points staying embedded in the wood.
FWIW, the number of arrows I've shot and not had any issues far outweighs the ones that have come loose.
Like a few others stated.....I've been using Ferr-L-tite since the late 1960's and have never had a problem, even in my high school/college years in the cold, north Minnesota woods.
I use Stanley amber from Bomgaars. It needs a little more heat, but I have never had a broadhead pull off when target shooting with them. I do not directly put the head or the glue on the arrow on the taper directly in the flame. I heat up both, I try to apply even and no more than I need.
From carbons to wood can't beat Big Jim's hot melt...tough as nails!
I only use Bohning Insert Iron for broadhead and points on wood shafts. Haven't tried Big Jim's.
Deno
I've used industrial hotmelt glue sticks for years....not the "craft" stuff.
The industrial strength always seems to have a yellow look to the glue.
You mentioned the glue hardening up before you get the point on.
The method below should alleviate that problem completely.
I use a little alcohol burner.
I soften the glue stick in the flame..just soft and starting to get runny...but not dripping.
"smear" a little glue on the shaft.
Then I hold the point in the heat for about a 6-7 count with 190 grain tips...lighter tips = less time.
Basically I only heat the back end of the tip...keeps the front from getting too hot to handle.
Then I take the shaft with the glue on it and rotate that in the flame to soften the glue again...just till it starts to bubble...takes about 2 seconds.
Then I push on the tip, rotate it a bit/index it if a broadhead.
Then use my thumb to clean up the excess glue that squished out while it's still soft.
Never really had a problem. I've had a tip or two pull out when using hard targets...but nothing to really complain about.
The other nice thing about hot glue is that it's easy to reheat and change points.
Quote from: Jbseitz on April 18, 2018, 10:53:25 PM
From carbons to wood can't beat Big Jim's hot melt...tough as nails!
This ^^^^^^^^
Bisch
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Quote from: Deno on June 07, 2018, 02:41:32 AM
I only use Bohning Insert Iron for broadhead and points on wood shafts. Haven't tried Big Jim's.
Deno
I'll have to try Big Jim's after such great comments. Insert Iron is pretty pricey and a bit messy ta boot
I use BigJim's and it is not the same as anyone else sells period , Jim researched this glue and found it to be the best and now markets it as his own hot melt. Simply the best there is. Drew