As much as I want to be a wood arrow shooter, I have found that is not my passion.
After I make a bow, I want to shoot it, I don't want to make a Woody and have to play with that too. The bows give me enough problems. They're worse than my kids.
You guys shooting longbow who need some low spine arrows, what carbons are you shooting? I've always been an aluminum shooter just because they're cheap and the spine range is easy to pick for me.
I currently use a 1816 aluminum's. What's a comparable carbon? I'm scared to buy a bunch that end up being stiff. Nothing's working out on Stu's dynamic spine calculator that I can see,but I could be missing something
Thanks.
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I'm sure someone will chime in I don't know about low spine I shoot kind of heavyweight bows but I can tell you that carbons are no more expensive than aluminum is in the long run ....mark my word carbons are not more expensive in the long run they are much more durable especially if you go with a cross weave designed Arrow
Would have to be a 600 carbon to match a 1816, would probably still seem stiff.. What bow weight and arrow length?
I shoot around 50 lbs. But the arrow has to get around a handle so I need weaker arrows. I have been lazy with my handle designs and just been gluing a shelf on a 1" wide handle.
I draw somewhere between 28-29 so 30 is absolutely minimum.
I'm thinking maybe a 700 spine would work, but I'd like input from anybody with similar setups. 600 looks too stiff dynamically.
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I think 700 will be too weak.
For every inch an arrow is longer than 28 inches, it loses 5 pounds in dynamic spine weight...
there are two kinds of shaft spine, static and dynamic. wood, glass and aluminum work well to compare static and dynamic spine values. carbon is a very different shaft medium that has a very wide dynamic spine range that doesn't compare to their static spine values. as a result, they typically have a very wide dynamic spine range.
i use beman ics bowhunter shafts to make up arrows that are 29.5" long for 43 to 53 pound bows, with front end weights of 135 to 255 grains. they all work well - for me. no matter what the final arrow build is, lots will have to do with your release, as the shaft's flight can too easily be affected by a poor release, which is a reason for large helical feather steerage.
I have a self bow, no shelf, 47@29. I shoot a 55-60 31" 125 point cedar out of it or a 1916 31" 125 point. 600 carbon 31" 125 point should be more than fine.
My 1916s slap the hell out of the riser. Bare shafting I could shoot a deer around a corner.
I'll order a 600 and 700 spine warrior and see how they work out.thanks for the help
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what weight point are you shooting?
Trying for 125-145 but I have an assortment. I just want it to work. I found when I got high like 175-200 gr up front on my 1916 and 500 spine arrows, it's almost like the spine started doing something wierd. I gave up.
I went get a Genesis arrow, and it shot stiff, but there's like no weight up front on those things.
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I would have a tendency to say slapping riser because to weak.
I thought that too, but bareshafts are going left like a frisbee.
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I make bows heavier that 50 pounds and I make my handles 3/4" wide.
Just a thought.
Possible false stiff reading on bare shaft. If it slaps riser it will throw arrow left (RH shooter).
Don't forget that you can change how your carbons behave (dynamic spine) by adding point weight in the form of 50 or 100 grain inserts, or using the weights that will screw into the back of standard GT inserts, as well as the heavier inserts. That would, possibly, allow you to stay with 125-150gr points while still giving tuning flexibility. I would think 600 spine would work with your bow, by experimenting with that front end weight.
So I ordered one each of warrior 600 and 700 to test with. I have some 500 spine arrow Dynamics to play with. Thanks for looking the input guys. I have up to 200gr tips for the carbons so that should give me one flexibility. I'll give an update once I get this guy tuned with a carbon
On another note. What glue do you use for carbon inserts since I can't use hot melt?
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The best carbon insert glue I have used is 30-06 insert weld glue.
Like a super glue with a rubber additive.
http://www.lancasterarchery.com/30-06-insert-weld-glue.html?cmp=cel&trigger=ac
Is there a way to release the stuff if I need to? Like to add tip weight or cut the shaft?
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Big Jim's Hot Melt works well. He has videos on his Youtube channel demonstrating the use.
I have not damaged any arrows from heating the points to release the insert/weight.
Heating the point will release it.
Alright awesome. I have been under the impression that hot melt couldn't be used on carbons. Sweet.
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I'm a little late weighing in, but here's what works for me at my 26.5" draw.
Toelke Whip 42#@28----I'm using Heritage 75s with 145 up front cut to 29.5" They spine .675
Toelke PIKA 40#@29---I'm using carbon express predator iis in 800 spine with 98 grains up front. These arrows also tune well with 125s up front. This is abosuletly the best tuned set up I've ever shot. These arrows fly that great.
As others have said---Big Jim's hot melt. As he shows in his video---just put a field tip on the insert and heat to the point that you just start to get uncomfortalble holding it---that is all the heat you need. I always dunk my arrows in a bottle of water after glueing the inserts.
It sounds like you are on the right track.
I've had pretty good luck with Ferr-L-Tite Cool Blue with the last batch of carbons I built. It has a lower melting temp but is pretty strong. I haven't had a chance to test it, but Bohning says hot water is enough to melt it if you need to remove an insert (how hot, I don't know, but for science, I'll find out when I get home tonight!).
X2 on Big Jim's hot melt. Very strong, and heat easily removed with heat.