Hey Guys, What are the thickness dimensions I need to be looking for on my bamboo backing for an Ipe belly? I know nothing about bamboo other than what I've read. Its 3/16 on the ends closer to a .25 in the center. Also the thickness varies slightly in the center area, so I want to make it nice and uniform, tapering toward the tips though. I read 1/8 a lot on other post but they were vague. One more thing, To get the length I want I will end up with a node 2 inches from each tip, is that a problem?
Taper it from 1/8th thick at the riser to 1/16th thick at the tips, "that is the center thickness, not the edges". Get the edges to a butter knife edge. Just barely sand the sharp ridge off each node. Use a scraper to remove the rind, just slightly take the rind off then sand lengthwise along the bow with 320 to smooth it up. Do not take too much off the back. If it has a few long deeper depressions in it, do not try to get the rind off there. Just let it alone.
A node that close to the tips is not ideal. But I've done it because I'll put on a 2 inch long horn tip overlay, so the node gets sanded off.
(http://i.imgur.com/VYjgUtl.png) (https://imgur.com/VYjgUtl)
Thanks Roy. Their 2.5 actually. I can do it to were they are 7.25 from each tip, but I get a 62 inch t2t bow. If my actual draw is 26.25 and I do a bendy 62 should be plenty right? I'm really liking the idea of a D bow on the short side in the #60 range. I will go with what design is best for what I have to work with, want to get the most bang for my buck. What ya think bout that?
For a 26.25" draw there is nothing wrong with a 62" bow, and you won't need a bendy handle.
Thanks Roy.
What Roy said.
Be very careful scraping the rind off. If you nick the boo it can raise a splinter.
You could lightly sand the rind off but don't sand too heavily especially at the nodes.
I scrape the rind lightly but don't take it all off with the scraper as you will leave little cuts that you won't see until you stain the back.
I scrape a little and sand a lot, I even leave a few thin streaks of rind to add character to the stain job. These streaks soak up stain like a sponge and will be darker.
Here is an example, the stain on the finished left side shows the streaks.
(https://i.imgur.com/zX2vPrv.jpg)
If you use a scraper, don't set it down hard or straight down. Hold at an angle towards you and have it moving towards you as you contact the boo.
Thanks guys. Eric that's a nice looking bow.
Now I need to look up some before and after pics rind on rind off. Don't tell no body but I thought the darn thing had been coated with some kinda yellow sealer when I first saw it, shhhhh....
Johnny thought the boo had a yellow sealer on it.
Johnny thought the boo had a yellow sealer on it.
Johnny thought the boo had a yellow sealer on it.
LOL...........
Coming from a guy who thinks miller light is beer, I'm not hurt.
I'm gonna take pics yall tell me what ya think hold on.
(https://i.imgur.com/0PweW2xl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Fz7TYcfl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JP2B2Cwl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nswUFyzl.jpg)
See how shiny the rind is? Right at the tip overlay it's dull. That's what ya want when done.
(http://i.imgur.com/sGZh1xE.jpg) (https://imgur.com/sGZh1xE)
Phone didn't take a good picture below.
(http://i.imgur.com/xaB4AmX.jpg) (https://imgur.com/xaB4AmX)
Thanks Roy.
It's easy, as the rind comes off, you will see the darker color. Once ya see the darker color stop. Get the heavy stuff with a scraper then use fine sandpaper.
Ive read crazy stuff about how hard it is to tiller because of more nodes on one side, belly to thin under this node blahh blahhh blahhh,,,,,,, How hard is it really? For a beginner.
You can handle it. I seen your last bow.. :)
Thanks for the vote of confidence. For some reason I'm having flash backs from grade school, when my buddy convinced me I could whoop the school bully no problem.
It's really not bad to tiller around the nodes. You'll have about .5" on both sides the node that will be a little stiff. With a strong wood like ipe, a few scrapes will have it bending evenly.
Like Roy said the ones near the tips are the only ones I even worry about.
Make sure the bamboo is near the dimensions Roy stated and you shouldnt have a problem. Thick bamboo can be a nightmare to tiller.
I have made 50+ bamboo backed bows and found the stiffness around the nodes is barely noticeable.
Thanks Eric. I'm going to use the white oak first but will be using the bamboo on the second one.
Pictures of the rind removal. Takes only a few minutes with a sharp scraper.
(//%5Burl=https://imgur.com/g5hh13M%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i.imgur.com/g5hh13M.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(//%5Burl=https://imgur.com/viwbOev%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i.imgur.com/viwbOev.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Although I haven't had problems either way, I recently started taking less rind off, in hopes of not compromising the "power fibers". Those are the fibers right under the rind, and are what makes bamboo such a great backing. Those fibers supposedly have a much higher SG than the averaged SG reported for bamboo, like in the .8 or higher range, and have excellent bending and stiffness values.
So treat them nicely, and they will treat you nicely.
I'm not a believer in removing the rind either.
The slightest nick from that scraper can cause a splinter.Bamboo is pretty tough material but it is susceptible to minor damage.
X's 2 what Pat said.
But with the correct procedure, it's easy.
I haven't had boo fail in quite a few years. But I did switch to a boo called Madake. Before I used Moso, and had problems with it.