A few years ago a guy sent me a nice lemonwood stave(3/4x2x72) and a hickory backing strip to go with it.Today I decided to do a build along making an ALB, 68"n/n, 1 1/2" at the widest and straight out 12" before tapering to 1" tips(for now). The final tips will be about 3/8" at the string nocks.
I started out by drawing out the outline on the lemonwood, cutting it out and sanding it square.
(https://i.imgur.com/jRUu7JZ.jpg)
...the stave as I received it, and the bow's outline drawn out...
(https://i.imgur.com/vrLLzxP.jpg)
...and cut out...
(https://i.imgur.com/myADou2.jpg)
...detail of handle layout drawn out. I will wait until first low brace before reducing the handle shape and the tips in case I need to make corrections...
(https://i.imgur.com/Tz8R8dz.jpg)
...here I've traced out the bow shape on the hickory backing strip...
...and finally today when I seperated the lemonwood from the backing strip(from when it was mailed to me a few years ago) I noticed this coloration and pattern. I don't know if the sender did this or it happened while the two pieces were taped together but I like it and will try to keep is as a decoration on the back.
I will have to sand it smooth so I don't know how it will turn out. I guess we'll see.
(https://i.imgur.com/XI1qCQX.jpg)
Anyway, this will take a while, especially with the glue up so please be patient.
I will add some reflex at glue up.
Perfect timing for me. I think I will be silent and follow along.
Thanks Pat
:campfire:
Looks nice, Pat. Looking forward to the build.
Bookmarked! Class in session
OK guys, please be patient with me. I'll get her done as soon as I can but that could be a while.
I've got a few more pics for you guys. I cut the backing strip to a rough shape slightly wider than the belly. Hard to see in this pic...
(https://i.imgur.com/MgCkpoB.jpg)
...lined the back and belly up together and camped them in place...
(https://i.imgur.com/FC3fDS6.jpg)
...then, a little secret that Pearl Drums told me about a few years ago...after being sure everything is lined up well and well clamped I drilled 2, 1/8" holes about 5/8" deep through the backing and into the belly but not all the way through. These will hold 2, 1/8" dowels that will act as alignment pins to keep the backing and belly in place while gluing it all together. These are the 3rd hand we always needed when messing with slimy glue. I've used this trick a few times now and it works like a champ.
(https://i.imgur.com/zbaqBc7.jpg)
I'm at a stopping point again while I get glue and bicycle tubes for the glue up. I'm going with Weldwood Plastic Resin, a urea type wood glue for this project. I've used it before with good results. The bicycle tubes won't be a problem since Brevard has become a mountain and road bike Mecca. We have 3 or 4 bicycle shops and they are always willing to give me as many punctured tubes as I want.
My next step is the glue up. I will first pre-tiller the belly some so I get a nice even reflex bend at glue up. I'll take pics of all this and post as soon as I do so til then....
Pat, what type of hickory is that? Looks different than any I've used. Cool on the dowel pins. I always use toothpicks at both tips and bow center to keep it straight for glue up.
Pat a good tip is to make the backing the same width as the belly or else you can get cupping on the backing when using tubes. It pulls more on the edges than the center. Forcing the exposed edges downwards and inwards.
Roy, I don't know which hickory it is. The coloration on the one side I think was added by the sender. I'd like to keep that color but after sanding it smooth I'm not sure how much will be left.
Mike, I'll make the back and belly the same size plus I may use a pressure strip to insure even clamping.
I usually add a small clamp to each tip even with the inner tube wrap and a couple of clamps at the handle to hold the handle area down while reflexing. Not sure if I'll add the riser at the glue up, before or after.
Neat stuff......I enjoy watching the progress.
Good point, Mike.
See, even an old dog can learn. :D
LOL
Good stuff so far! I also can't wait to see how that color and pattern on the hickory will look after it's all done.
Yeah, I'm hoping the coloration and pattern also remain in good shape after sanding.
I'm looking forward to seeing this one. Thanks!
I'm having a hard time finding Weldwood Plastic Resin. I've checked all my local options and gone on line. I can find it on line but the stuff with the normal price($6.95-$8.95 for 1# tub) is not available and where it is available they want almost $30 plus shipping(about $15).
I do have Urac185 but the last time I used it was 4 or 5 years ago and it was 3 or 4 years old then. Even though it has been in the frig since I still don't think I can trust it.
I can and may use TBIII if I can't find the Weldwood Plastic Resin.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=+Weldwood+Plastic+Resin
It went up in price. I bought the Weldwood plastic resin based on Pat's recommendation a couple months for $9 on amazon. I just glued up a tri-lam with it 2 days ago. I'll provide a review of it after I finish tillering it. I'm impressed with it so far.
Thanks Roy. A PA member had bought a 4.5# tub a while back and offered to send me a baggie full. I found it for $25 to $30 on a few sites but the shipping was $15 to $17 bucks. I don't need it that bad.
Benton, looking forward to your review. I know I was impressed when I used it a few years ago. I learned about it many years ago when a PA member from Italy talked about it. Albi used it exclusively on his incredible backed and multi-lam bows he built.
Yupper Pat..
looking good so far :thumbsup:
I got back at it this past week. First I covered the backing strip with masking tape to protect it at glue up...
(https://i.imgur.com/qxNg1FH.jpg)
...then cut 3 thin pieces of wood of graduating lengths that will be the riser...
(https://i.imgur.com/KlIpe3l.jpg)
...then time to glue it all together...
(https://i.imgur.com/re61Iyn.jpg)
...and the results...
(https://i.imgur.com/Phrk2mH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JV059AK.jpg)
I'll sand the edges smooth, mark out the riser and cut it out. Then I'll pre-tiller the lemonwood belly to prepare for glue-up.
to be continued...
I did a little more work today. First I sanded the sides of the handle area flat so I could mark it all out...
(https://i.imgur.com/OqAJbOQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3VQQajp.jpg)
...then I marked out the side view of the handle and fades and marked the beginning limb thickness(5/8"), done with the backing included...
(https://i.imgur.com/7z15IN6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sqC6lO3.jpg)
Next will be rough shaping the side profile of the handle and reduce to the initial limb thickness. ...to be continued...
Are you cutting a shelf into that bow. What is the measurement from end fade to end fade.? I'm thinking 12".
4 inch handle and four inch fades I believe he said.
QuoteOriginally posted by BMorv:
It went up in price. I bought the Weldwood plastic resin based on Pat's recommendation a couple months for $9 on amazon. I just glued up a tri-lam with it 2 days ago. I'll provide a review of it after I finish tillering it. I'm impressed with it so far.
$9.. in Canada I paid $42 shipping included for a one pound tub.
4" handle centered on the bow, 4" fades. The limbs are 1 1/2" out 12" then tapering to 3/4" tips(for now, will finish out at 3/8").
No, I won't be cutting in a shelf. The bow will have a bulbous handle and I may add a small leather rest at the arrow pass.
Silly question, will the 12 inch riser area be stiff through the fades then 28 inches of working limb? I'm looking at the pic with the side view of the riser lay out. I know that's a rough out line but looks like it will be stiff.
As I'm tillering I'll bring the working limb back to or into the fades. This will be a stiff handled bow, not a bendy. The ALBs are stiff handled.
Pat, It's looking good so far. I've always enjoyed your build a longs. I've learned a lot!
Thanks,
Lee
Thanks Lee. Just passing on what others taught me.
Looking nice, Pat..
I need to get back on it but my basement shop is too cold now, not PA cold but NC cold. :saywhat:
I did a little wood removal by sawing along the drawn lines on both sides of each limb at about a 45deg angle. This removed enough wood so I can see a little bend when I floor tiller...
(https://i.imgur.com/omVR68M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hy8gQWq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9rIXUL5.jpg)
I also cut the fade areas...
(https://i.imgur.com/Zl4BT8K.jpg)
It's just too damned cold in my basement shop(34deg) to work down there so as soon as this cold snap breaks I'll use a rasp to pre-tiller the limbs so I get a smooth, even bend then I'll be ready for glue-up.
Man oh man.......that is shaping up nicely. :thumbsup:
Looking good, Pat. Was -3 here this morning.
We were +3, Roy but my shop was 34. We have a January thaw coming this week. Tonight is the last below freezing for a week..with rain...which we need.
The shop got up to 40 so I did a little more work today. I started by rasping the belly to the line I drew along the side. I'm crowning the belly now as I remove wood but will flatten it out later. Lemonwood is susceptible to fretting so I'll flatten the belly to allow the stresses to be evened out instead of concentrated down the crown. I clean up the tool marks with scraper after each wood removal and I round the belly corners to prevent splinters. I found that lemonwood splinters fester pretty bad.
(https://i.imgur.com/9X0FJ3B.jpg)
...I marked an area that got cut a bit thin as I removed the corners with the bandsaw with "X"s so I stay away from it until the rest of the limb is at that thickness...
(https://i.imgur.com/5RUKFna.jpg)
...after removing wood from both limbs and smoothing out the tool marks with a scraper I floor tillered both limbs. This area where the oval is is a stiff spot where I will scrape until it's the same as the rest...
(https://i.imgur.com/CMDLlcQ.jpg)
Next I drew another line about 1/8" below the other line down both sides of both limbs to be the next area to remove wood too...
(https://i.imgur.com/m3QWMPk.jpg)
...when I do this I go from tip to tip, through the handle to insure both limbs are the same thickness on both sides...
(https://i.imgur.com/a41NZMW.jpg)
That's all for today.
I did a little more work today. In can see in the pics I need to scrape a little more so I have a nice even bend in both limbs.
This is the glue-up form I'll be using. The blocks at the tips are 3 1/4" where the tips rest and the handle area drops about 2" to the base. It's not much reflex but I think plenty for this style bow. After shooting in the bow should be pretty flat.
(https://i.imgur.com/nxRyGsa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vYk9A07.jpg)
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Still have plenty of strength even without the backing so I'll remove more wood and get her bending smoother.
Looks nice, Pat.
Looking good Pat.
Is there a reason you don't see many people using lemonwood anymore? Is it supply or just that we found better exotics to use? Ipe for instance. I've read about lemonwood being used a lot in the past, but this is the 1st current build I've seen in my 2 years of trying to build bows.
Benton, Lemonwood is primarily from Cuba and some from Central America and since the Cuban embargo it has been hard to come by. This is the wood that most of the bows used at summer camps, schools, etc. back in the 40's and 50's. Not long after that traditional archery went the way of the dinosaurs and mechanical bows came about.
I believe this lemonwood I'm using is pre-embargo that someone had stashed. You can still get lemonwood in specialty wood shops I think but it is expensive.
Today, there are better bow woods like ipe and not enough lemonwood to keep it a viable resource. When I had the opportunity to get some I jumped at it just for the historical value and that's why I'm building, and built one other, a traditional style American long bow, typical in the 40's and 50's. Back then you could get selfbows or bows backed with fiber(basically thin cardboard) or hickory.
That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.
I've done the glue up and she's resting comfortably in the hot box.
I started out by getting everything I need ready. This is important because once you start it's too late to find something...
(https://i.imgur.com/yCWvLyy.jpg)
I then sanded both glue surfaces well to be sure I have clean, flat surfaces...
(https://i.imgur.com/hn7nj6M.jpg)
I then brushed both glue surfaces with a clean, stiff plastic scrub brush. This removes the saw dust for a good glue surface. I've always done this. I think I got the idea from Bingham's when I attempted a glass bow(I don't want to talk about it)...
(https://i.imgur.com/iS8Zn9T.jpg)
...now, it's time for the glue. I didn't take pics because I had gluey gloves on and didn't want to screw up the camera. Once both surfaces were well buttered I added the alignment pins, 2 at the handle and 1 at each tip, and put the back on the belly. You can see the pins coming through the back with glue on them...
(https://i.imgur.com/S1b7wPa.jpg)
Then it's time to wrap each limb with the split tire tube and place the glue up on the form...
(https://i.imgur.com/CpxtskE.jpg)
I drew the handle area down to the base of the form with 2 "C" clamps and added 1 small clamp at each tip...
(https://i.imgur.com/9waQ4ex.jpg)
I then checked for a good ooze around the whole bow. I did find one area without much ooze so I added another clamp there and got good ooze...
(https://i.imgur.com/K30eiQo.jpg)
Now it's time to go in the hot box. I made sure there were blocks in the bottom of the box to hold the glue up off the bottom so the "C" clamps weren't on the bottom and set the glue up in the box...
(https://i.imgur.com/8lzwJVT.jpg)
I like to lay a piece of aluminum foil over the glue up at each bulb to prevent hot spots...
(https://i.imgur.com/8ngcTWi.jpg)
...and closed up the box for a few hours. At 100deg to 120deg(crappy thermometers) it shouldn't take long but I'll give her a little more time before I turn the lights off and let her slowly cool. I'll have the camera ready when I open the box later. to be continued...
it's looking good... :)
She cooked for about 3 hours this afternoon then I turned the lights off so she could cool down slowly. I'll check her out tomorrow and take more pics.
I took her out of the hot box today. She's holding about 1 1/4" of reflex just off the form...
(https://i.imgur.com/SP5vkF3.jpg)
...now it's time to clean up the sides to remove the excess glue and square the sides...
(https://i.imgur.com/jPJzgV4.jpg)
...after getting the sides clean and square I used my scraper to round off the edges on the backing...
(https://i.imgur.com/xoKNLFt.jpg?1)
...then 150 sand paper to smooth the corners...
(https://i.imgur.com/VZPMA0w.jpg?1)
...here she is showing the reflex...
(https://i.imgur.com/a1McZF9.jpg?1)
...and I think these are the best glue lines I've ever gotten on a backed bow...
(https://i.imgur.com/Z6m84oV.jpg)
...that's it for now, more to come...
Looks good Pat. So those two lines are the ends of the handle proper and you start the riser tapering to the belly from there which is the same spot the flare will start. As the riser gets shallower the flare gets wider. When the flare ends at the widest part of the limb the riser continues but is very shallow but the board is still 3/4 thick at this point so this makes the entire riser stiff. Is this correct? I have been starting the taper of the riser to belly were the fade ends for fear of making it weak. Which gives me a blocky sorta look that I don't care for.
Ideally the fades are the transition between the working limb and the stiff handle.
These traditional ALBs have stiff handles that fade into the limb. The longer fades allow for a long transition into the working limb. This bow is still very heavy. I haven't floor tillered since the backing was added but I'd bet at least 100# as she sits.
I think I follow ya.
I did a little wood removal this morning but didn't take any pics. I started off by drawing a line down both sides of both limbs at 5/8" from the back and removed wood to that line. I then checked the bend floor tillering. It hardly bent so I scribed another line 1/2" down from the back, removed the wood and checked. Voila! it bends...but still way too stiff. I may end up having to thin the backing and/or narrowing the bow but that's a decision for later.
Very nice, Pat.
But I wanna hear about the glass bow? :)
Roy, it was a straight Bingham's longbow. I didn't get the fades ground precisely and the glue up was off a bit. I contacted Bingham's about the problem and they told me to clamp the handle in a vise and torque the limb a little and that might help. I did it and the bow blew right at the fade. I still have it so I can remember to never build another glass bow. :D
LOL ok.
I was wondering about the glass bow too....
I wish we knew more about the color of the backing. I've never seen anything like that.
Benton, I think the guy I got if from had dyed the hickory backing strip green then splattered it with brown. Probably leather dye. but Rit dye mixed in alcohol would do the same.
Cool stuff Pat........can't wait for more. :thumbsup:
Thanks Ron. I've done a little the last few days but it's pretty cold in my shop so I only work a little at a time.
I've narrowed the bow to 1 3/8" and may have to narrow more as it's still pretty strong.
I marked out the width and reduced it with a farriers rasp because the 36 grit belt on my sander is old, dull and as I put pressure on it the belt stops. I think this old belt has stretched. I'll get a new belt as soon as I can. I still have to thin the backing some too.
It is taking shape and looking great. I agree, those glue lines look good. Looking forward to seeing it bend.
Well, I got a little more done today. After removing wood from the belly the backing seemed to be too thick so I sanded it down a bit. I just got a new 40 grit belly and was worried I take too much off. I gingerly pulled the bow over the sander, one limb at a time, about 6 or 8 times to reduce it. Here it is before sanding...
(https://i.imgur.com/4dCIWmR.jpg)
...and after...
(https://i.imgur.com/U9b0t5l.jpg)
One thing it did do is remove the dyed design on the backing. That's not a problem. I'll come up with something else later.
Next I drew where to cut the string nocks. Usually I will come down 3/4" from the tip on the back and 1" on the belly. This usually comes out at about a 45deg angle. Because the ends were uneven I came down 1" on the back and 1 1/4" on the belly...
(https://i.imgur.com/qvfTHch.jpg)
...then I cut in the nocks with a chain saw file...
(https://i.imgur.com/HvTpaID.jpg)
These are temporary nocks just for early tillering. Once I see how the string tracks at low brace I will reduce the tip width, add overlays and cut in the permanent nocks. I like to keep the tips wide to start with in case I need to make adjustments for string alignment.
Now her first trip to the tiller tree. I exercised her some then looked to see if things were OK and so far, so good...
(https://i.imgur.com/uAgfRGA.jpg)
...to be continued...
Looks to be still pretty thick, but that will leave you room to play with. Looking good.
I'm wondering why people normally go with 1" from the end on their string nocks? Seems to me that it's just unnecessary to go that long. It will add length and mass to your tips and doesn't have a function. Or am I missing something? I normally go .5" from the end
I start long with the string nocks then while shaping the tips remove a lot of the bulk. One reason I like them long is for the use of a 2 cup type stringer.
Everything beyond the string grooves is dead weight so from the string groove out I reduce the tips as much as I feel comfortable with and to make them aesthetic as I can.
I don't have pics of my nocks now but will once I get there with this bow.
Another way to reduce dead weight is to round all edges of the limbs. You can make a reasonable radius along these edges without changing tiller or reducing weight.
:clapper: :clapper:
I did a little more scraping today but not enough to post pics of. Even though I did about 80 scrapes on both limbs and 5 runs on the backing with the new 40 grit belt sander you can hardly notice the difference except she's bending a bit better. I've decided to reduce the T/T length to 68"(now 71") which will be better for my 26" draw. I made a string today and am pre-stretching it on the bow now. I'll get back on it again soon. I'm ready for low brace to see how she looks but won't rush getting there.
Looks nice, Pat.
I'm looking forward to seeing her bend too. Your last sentence gives insight as to why you are so good at this Pat! Meticulous patience.
I'll hopefully get back to her today. It would be nice to get her to low brace.
I got a little more done today. I cut the overall length from 71"t/t to a more appropriate 68"t/t and cut in new string nocks.
Here is a pic I should have posted the other day showing the reflex...
(https://i.imgur.com/q4zBHqS.jpg)
...with the handle clamped in the vise here is the bend of one limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/JN3ypZx.jpg)
...I did a bit more scraping, getting the limbs bending evenly and more together and things were looking good. Then, the fraging gremlins sneaked in and bit me in the arse...As I was exercising her after taking off wood I heard the dreaded "tick" and before I could let down and examine her this happened...
(https://i.imgur.com/4avOWIA.jpg)
It looks like the hickory broke on the side or back and lifted this splinter. Once I get over the shock I'll see what my options are. I may be able to narrow the bow to remove the splinter but I don't think I can trust the backing now. Maybe grind the backing off and find a new backing. Time will tell...
Ouch sorry, Pat.
Stuff happens, Roy. I'll give her a few days to rest and consider the options. I could narrow the bow to remove the splinter but I don't think I can trust the backing. With it glued with Weldwood Plastic Resin I guess I'll have to grind the backing off...boy will that suck! :eek:
Yeah that does suck. I wonder why it did that. It looks like very straight grain.
Maybe you can make the grinding into a tutorial. I've always wondered if I could do it, but never attempted it.
I'm curious why it broke. Generally speaking sound hickory doesn't break across grain. Being this is only about 1/4" wide break and a splinter it seems odd to me but I'll do a post mortum later to see if I can figure it out.
I will take pics if I decide to grind the back off. I just got a new 40 grit belt last week so that will make somewhat of a difference.
Actually Pat, I was surprised to see how square you left the edges?
I've ground backings off and it's a real pain...
Roy, the edges had been rounded. Maybe not 1/4" but enough...usually. That is something I learned a long time ago and I do it as needed, even on the belly as I remove wood.
A guy on PA suggested using a rasp and work facets along the edges. He said he rasps it to the glue line then redresses the surface. I guess I'll find out which works best.
I have a belly that I need to grind off of a tri-lam. I was thinking that a router might work for the bulk material, then sanding to finish it off.
Believe it or not the rough(40 grit) leaves a pretty smooth surface, good for gluing.
I ground the belly down on an osage backed bow I made that fretted and added a thin Argentine osage belly lam and retillered. It worked great.
Pat, do you think it could have been too dry with all that cold weather and low humidity?
I do like the guy suggested on PA.
Pat, May have nothing to do with it but I know from experience that exposer to certain solvents makes wood brittle. I have a good idea of how they put that pattern on the backing strip as ive done similar stuff, as far as what they used, who knows. Most stains and dies are cut with alcohol, mineral spirits or whatever as you already know. But there are quit a few ive used over the years that were cut from the factory with acetone, MEK, lacquer thinner you name it. My experiments trying to return salvaged wood from furniture to its original raw wood condition without planning off to much wood have proved it to me. Usually the solvent just evaporates away before it causes any harm. But who knows what was used to put that design on there. People use stains on wood bows all the time with no trouble, I'm just saying there are some out there that have some really hot stuff in them. If they done that design with something they just happen to have on hand it could've had just enough of something in it to make good hickory bad bow wood.
Sorry to hear that Pat I was looking forward to seeing it shoot but if it's only 1/8 backing shouldn't be to hard to rasp & scrape off let us know how it goes !
Dang! Sorry to see that Pat. Is unusual for hickory to splinter like that, but stuff happens. How thick was the hickory?
I don't think it was too dry. Hickory can stand 5% m/c. I was more worried about the lemonwood being too dry. I think it had hidden rot. It is very hard to break sound, healthy hickory.
I'll take pics of the backing removal and if it all goes well I'll add a new backing and get her shooting.
John, it looked like leather dye to me and I've use that on lots of bows for stains and decorations.
Well, I think I'll start the autopsy today. Yesterday was my wife's birthday so we and a another couple went out to eat at our local sushi restaurant. I think a few pork dumplings, a few sushi rolls, some beautiful tuna sashimi and the first beer I've had since October(gota have a cold Sapporo with sushi) I woke up this morning with a clear head. :knothead:
I had thought about ripping the broken piece of backing off but I want to preserve the belly for future use if possible. I'll gingerly pry up what I can then rasp and grind the backing off and see what I can fine. The initial visual inspection as the bow sits now looks like a dry glue joint under the splinter but I'll be able to tell better once I get her opened up. Of course I'll take pics as I go along to share with you guys.
...to be continued...
Hope you can save the lemon wood Pat, So sad when a bow build along turns into a Sherlock Holmes mystery.
But Sherlock always get his man, John!
You'll find after a few bows under your belt that this is part of the fun. :rolleyes:
That's why I mentioned Sherlock, other than him being my child hood hero, he never gave up. Or I could've quoted my father. Boy ya want to see a true craftsman at work, watch what he does after things go in the crapper.
I do think the splinter lifted up from a dry glue line as you can see in these pics...
(https://i.imgur.com/DsQVTzM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D4sN9R2.jpg)
...so I started rasping the backing off. First I used a Sharpie to mark below the glue line so I didn't accidentally go into the belly...
(https://i.imgur.com/CffyqwD.jpg)
I started rasping a facet along the edge of the backing, always working toward the center as not to tear out another splinter...
(https://i.imgur.com/sJOR3Ai.jpg)
...I marked the rasped area with the Sharpie to show where I worked the rasp...
(https://i.imgur.com/0lyfldD.jpg)
...I used the Nicholson #41 rasp(I thought it was a #49, only difference is the blunt end) and the course side of a farriers rasp...
(https://i.imgur.com/9SmXhD0.jpg)
...this wasn't as bad as I expected.
...more to come...
Well, I got a bunch done. After rasping the facets on the backing I used the farriers rasp to reduce the crown. I remover the Sharpie lines added earlier so I could see the glue line better.
My first autopsy finding is like I suspected and someone else mentioned, a dry area of glue line along one edge right where the backing broke and lifted a splinter. I also found some discoloration in the hickory backing I've never seen before. I can't tell if this is fungal or maybe mineral deposits...
(https://i.imgur.com/CIlTjXO.jpg)
Once I got most of the backing down as far as I was comfortable using a rasp...
(https://i.imgur.com/bM8pQt6.jpg)
I went to the "Stave Master" and scraper to get the backing down...
(https://i.imgur.com/0S326I0.jpg)
...starting with the crown and working that down until I got near the edges...
(https://i.imgur.com/tdjIiUw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YUPIyY2.jpg)
The guy on PA(PatM) that suggested rasping instead of grinding said that when you hit the glue line it was like the sound made when chasing an osage ring and get into the early wood and it was. I got the majority of the backing off but still have more to go. I'll continue with a fresh head later.
Nice. Glad to see it wasn't too bad. You have inspired me to remove a belly lam.
So you didn't accidentally nick or scrap the lemonwood yet? That is my concern.
I may have a little along the edge but I'll grind the belly's glue surface flat before the next glue up. I'm working with just the scraper for now to minimize any possible damage.
I'm glad you're going to be able to save this bow Pat. You've given me the inspiration I need to do a similar repair on a bamboo, hickory, bamboo tri-lam that popped a big splinter last spring.
Dave.
If you used TB glue it's a whole lot easier. Just heat it up and the glue fails, then just pry the 2 pieces apart.
That's what I used, but I worry that the other glue lines might be damaged as well. Do you think it would work if I heated a small area at a time?
Dave.
I used a heat gun, starting at one tip. Once heated I worked a chisel between the back and belly prying them apart. Then worked down the limb to the handle and started again on the other tip, working towards the handle.
You could lay the tri-lam on a wet towel to keep the back cooler as you heat and work the belly off.
Thanks Pat, I'll do it that way - as soon as I get a weekend without any OT. :)
Dave.
After clearing my head I came up with a boo backing strip I've had for a while. I really don't like to make boo backed bows. They are beautiful and exotic but I just don't trust them.
Anyway, I have this boo backing strip someone gave me a few years ago. After looking it over it seems immature to me, thin wall and power fibers that don't seem tightly grouped near the outside edge. The boo looks pretty clear to me except for this bud at one of the nodes plus the sulcus(indentation) above the node...
(https://i.imgur.com/4m98Fq7.jpg)
The boo thickness is about 1/4" at the crown on this 1 7/8" wide backing strip. Plus, like I said above the power fibers don't seem to be tightly packed at the outer edge. Sorry the pics are not in better focus...
(https://i.imgur.com/hdVNbut.jpg)
...and here are pics of each end so you can see the actual boo thickness...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y6hfK8I.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k9JViuS.jpg)
I guess my question is...is this boo backing strip worth the effort of backing this lemonwood with. I don't want to loose the lemonwood if I can help it and I don't want to have to remove another backing strip. Like I said, it seems to be from an immature culm(cane).
Pat, the top of your bamboo looks very similar to the bamboo I get from Franks cane and rush. I've used planks with small buds on the nodes and it didn't have any ill effects.
One thing that differs is the thickness. I believe the ones I get are thicker than what I can see in your pictures. I'll take pictures of mine when I get home later tonight. The thin wall and thin power fiber layer would concern me.
I'm still contemplating this and not quite sure when I'll get to it.
Pat, when in doubt, go with what ya know. If ya really want to keep the lemon wood I would get a backing I had experience with and was sure of, if it blows your gonna kick yourself.
In my case I don't have experience with anything, so I have the luxury of just slapping whaterever I can find together to see what happens. Not knowing any better is fun sometimes.
Was able to snap a pic at lunch.
(//%5Burl=https://imgur.com/ezlR0q1%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i.imgur.com/ezlR0q1.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
The planks I get from Frank's have been really good. I never had a backing failure since I started using them, around 15 backings (I've had other failures, but not the bamboo).
And I just placed an order for more than I need to make the shipping worthwhile, so PM me if you want to use bamboo, I can ship you one.
I wish the piece I have looked that good, Benton. Mine is 1/4" thick and it still has a concave, unworked belly.
Pat I got some really nice boo from Carson he sent me some that the nodes are all evenly spaced and top notch boo ! It was a pleasure to work .
Thanks for the info, Ritchie.
When I get my head where I can process what I have here I'll go ahead and give it a try.
Love reading these. Have you shelved this one Pat, or have you made some headway?
Still studying it, Woodpuppy. Haven't really decided what to do.