Planning my swap bow and have a question...
I made a recurve form this past winter and have made 2 bows on it. The first came in heavier than I wanted at #58. I reduced the stack and the second came in at #49 - just as the lam stack calculator predicted.
I want to make a #40 bow on my 3rd attempt and need to reduce the stack by .03. My question is if it makes a difference if I take this off of the parallel lam or the tapered lam?
Here are my first two stacks:
Bow 1 - .280 total
Glass - .04 x2
Parallel - .07
.003 taper - .130
Bow 2 - .265 total
Glass - .04 x2
Parallel - .06
.003 taper - .125
Thanks,
Mitch
you might have to take some from both parallel and taper.. Some vendors don't like to grind a 003 tapers thinner than 0.125
If .015 took off 9#, you want to take off .030 to go 9# more?
I'm not much of a recurve guy but that sounds like a lot. But the stack calc worked the first time!
I won't go less than .010 over the lam's taper which on a .003 taper is .108 so .118 is minimum for a .003.
That should give Roy a decimal headache!
OMG..
Help, I just fell off my chair... LOL
LOL
You could also cut your tapers to length off of the thick end instead of the thin end to reduce stack.
Thanks Kenny and Robert -
Kenny - I meant .03 from the original stack so the 3rd attempt would be .250 total. How's this look?
3rd bow - .250 total
glass - .04 x2
parallel - .05
.003 taper - .120
Sorry Roy!
Yes, Bvas nailed it. that's what I do too. Some times you have to make stack height adjustments using the tapers since 040 fiberglass is sometimes not 040..I have seen it run 038 to 043. Same with grinding parallels, A good accurate dial caliper is a must have tool for me. I used to use digital calipers but switched over to dials 2 years ago.
QuoteOriginally posted by Robertfishes:
Yes, Bvas nailed it. that's what I do too. Some times you have to make stack height adjustments using the tapers since 040 fiberglass is sometimes not 040..I have seen it run 038 to 043. Same with grinding parallels, A good accurate dial caliper is a must have tool for me. I used to use digital calipers but switched over to dials 2 years ago.
X2
Be quite Kenny, your going to mess him up. :bigsmyl:
You could also cut your tapers to length off of the thick end instead of the thin end to reduce stack.
That's how I make gwass bows too, Bvasy...
Robert, I hear ya dude. Gwass is not always what they say. That's why I quit making gwass bows...
Mitch, it's ok bro... I've been going to school for them decimal thing ah mah jigs...
Cutting off the thick end should work just fine - thanks. I have a digital caliper that will have to do! ;)
Roy - can you get those bamboo backings down to .04? Be just like glass then! :D
:D
Nothing wrong with a digital, I still use my igaging digital when I build ILF limbs and wedges..but I got a good deal on 2 used Mitutoyo dials and they seem to be more user friendly for laminations..
I prefer dial calipers too. Not sure why, just do.
More traditional I suppose... :biglaugh:
quote:
Originally posted by kennym:
I prefer dial calipers too. Not sure why, just do.
More traditional I suppose... :bigsmyl:
Emailed you an order Kenny.