I just finished up a bow I have been wanting to try for a while.
Slightly modeled after the Great Northern green glass longbow. I used Red Elm core wood, Green glass, Green Future wood. Glass and riser wood from OMC. Overlays on both nocks and riser are Cocobolo.
60# @28". - 62" ntn
I have a gloss finish on it right now but I am considering adding a final coat of satin.
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/AC41D96E-5EEA-4044-88C6-32A35187DE5D.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/AC41D96E-5EEA-4044-88C6-32A35187DE5D.jpg.html)
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/E5C79B3A-4FA8-49B7-8A79-72B763F899B9.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/E5C79B3A-4FA8-49B7-8A79-72B763F899B9.jpg.html)
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/785C892E-5417-4EE1-B034-D778E88712CF.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/785C892E-5417-4EE1-B034-D778E88712CF.jpg.html)
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/5AF966AF-CF85-431E-A469-8B44F2D19416.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/5AF966AF-CF85-431E-A469-8B44F2D19416.jpg.html)
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/F4178102-1D24-4B20-A92C-83216E8DEAC4.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/F4178102-1D24-4B20-A92C-83216E8DEAC4.jpg.html)
(http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w394/cunruhsurf/Bow%20Making/5D8F7496-3EBB-4E3C-B0AD-AFB7B6DD35EE.jpg) (http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/cunruhsurf/media/Bow%20Making/5D8F7496-3EBB-4E3C-B0AD-AFB7B6DD35EE.jpg.html)
I love it. Great job!
Nice! Got some green glass last week and the cores came yesterday, thanks for some good motivation to get started.
awesome
I like it.
Can you explain what the future wood is? Is it like Dymond wood or the colored actionwood stuff?
This info is from the bear archery website regarding future wood.
Fred Bear introduced FutureWood in the 1970's and was re-introduced in the Bear line in 2013 due to request from customers wanting natural hardwoods reminiscent of the early 1970 era bows. This manufacturing process gives completely new physical properties to the wood in the handle section. A pressurized vacuum fills all the natural pores in the wood, increasing its weight and greatly strengthening it. After baking, the handle is no longer natural wood, but Futurewood: It is virtually impossible to warp, check, or crack. Yet, all the grain and original beauty of the natural wood are intact.
nice!!I like the green glass too!!
Looking very nice.
That is really cool I'm partial to green anyway.
Awesome! I almost bought some green glass recently but ended up ordering medium brown glass.
Cunruhshoot, The "pressurized vacuum" in Bears description confuses me this early in the morning.. I'm guessing the process uses alternating vacuum and pressure. I do like the look of the Futurewood, I hear Ron Pittsley from Predator Bows makes alot of it.
Great looking bow- love the green glass!
I'm not all crazy over green but that is a nice bow. You did a super job on it!!
agree with all the above, nice bow! :thumbsup:
Sounds like basically the same stuff the knife makers use for handles. Stabilized wood.
That's a pretty bow!! Like that green. :thumbsup:
Thanks everyone - this question may need a new thread but I am thinking of increasing the taper rate in my next build. I have been using a .002 taper but I am thinking of going for a .004 any thoughts?
The last 2 inches of draw from 26" to 28" jump to about 4# per inch the previous two inches from 24" to 26" were 3# per inch.
Will a greater taper rate smooth out the end of the draw?
I use four tapers of .001 in my H. H style flat laid longbows and they have an even progression in weight increase right out to about 30''so for mine I think its a good idea.
Bow looks good. Nice job on it
Good looking stick, Cameron!
:thumbsup: