Snowing again this weekend, another winter storm warning. No reason to waste some good shop time though. I have some osage in billet length. I went through and thought it was time to combine some of those billets. One pair were sister billets the other was not. Dont know if anyone has seen the process but billets can add a lot of work but also produce some great shooting bows.
Sister Billets
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0382.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0382.jpg.html)
While at it might as well do two sets
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0383.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0383.jpg.html)
Fisrt you need to get them to the ring you are going to use as the back.Because the outer rings were not so good I had to go deep into the billet for good rings, so I use the bandsaw. Careful here just a little bit of inattention and you can ruin a stave or billet. Small shaving is the way to go not big cuts.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0386.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0386.jpg.html)
Then down to your growth ring for the back
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0385.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0385.jpg.html)
Once I had all four billets cleaned up a little and down to the growth ring I wanted it was time to square up the bottom for cutting the splice. Here is where you really need to be careful. You have to get the billets to join in as straight a line as possible. I run just 6 or eight inches at the handle end through my joiner, careful here if you do this with your bow back at an angle when you glue up your billets they will have propeller twist and you may never get the bow back to center. Hard to see in this picture.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0387.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0387.jpg.html)
Next I get my center lines on my billets, I use a string. Then glue on my templates for my splice, this is a fishtail splice.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0393.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0393.jpg.html)
Now to the bandsaw and you should end up with something like this.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0394.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0394.jpg.html)
It usually takes some sanding to get the joints to sit in fully. This was a nice joint, the other had gaps.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0395.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0395.jpg.html)
Another picture of the splice.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0396.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0396.jpg.html)
Now is a good time for wood reduction. Either with the bandsaw or drawknife. While they are in billet form they are easier to work then when a full stave and it will help at glue up to have less mass.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0397.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0397.jpg.html)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0398.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0398.jpg.html)
Now to glue up. I use blocks to add in some set back at glue up.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0400.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0400.jpg.html)
First I use the epoxy as is and size all joint surfaces. Then I join and tap into place. Next I mix in some sawdust into the epoxy and work that down into the gaps of my joint.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0401.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0401.jpg.html)
Then I wrap with clear plastic wrap and clamp snug.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0402.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0402.jpg.html)
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0403.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0403.jpg.html)
In the morning I remove the clamps and as much plastic as I can get off and then let cure for 12 or so hours more. Then you are ready to build as if staves.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n274/JackSkinner/2016%20Bows/IMAG0404.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/JackSkinner/media/2016%20Bows/IMAG0404.jpg.html)
Well done - thanks!
Very nice, Jack...
Very well done, can't wait to see the finished bows. Congrats.
COOL!
Thanks guys couple of other notes. If your joint isn't all that nice no big deal your handle wrap will cover most of the joint. If really ugly you can level the belly and glue up some other wood or another layer of the same wood(cap) to cover the ugly joint. Also adding a handle overlay on the back and most would not even be able to tell it was a billet build.
If you joint isn't fitting great the best thing to do is steam the splices for 15 mins then clamp them together. Once cold they can be taken apart and you can marvel at the absolutely perfect mating surfaces. :)
Mike even though I don't work with all wood bows I appreciate and enjoy you tips. Thanks
Thanks Mike I have heard that but not tried yet. Will do on next set of billets for a cleaner looking joint.