(http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/limbalignment_zpsbf04dc65.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/limbalignment_zpsbf04dc65.jpg.html)
before shaping the grip I put a 18" tillering stick center of riser and center of string, be carefull since the limbs are now loaded..eyeball limbs and see if there are any twists, use above chart if needed. and yes you could be torking the bow ..how wide are your limbs at fades and string grooves?
in the first shot near side tip seems to be pointing to the left, next shot its pointing to the right.also string appears to be making a lot of contact with recurve section. Maybe if the brace was a little higher so string leaves the limb a little more it would tell you what is actually happening.
Bigbob - that's what I thought too. I'd definitely be getting the twist sorted out before shaping the riser.
Thanks guys - appreciate the help.
I would be more interested in the cause of the problem than the cure. On a glass bow, check your form and also the quality of the lams used. Some bow limbs twist over time but if a new build has a twist there has to be a cause.
That is a good looking shop. I am envious.
I'm with Robert- use a 18" tiller stick to check for limb twist and adjust from there if needed.
Thanks neuse - I like spending time out there. It is small but I like it.
The following only works if your form is straight and glass did not slide arround in your form...I like to "grid" my glass and draw limb tapers before glue up..on a one piece bow my grid starts with "0" in the center of the glass and is numbered each inch towards the tips..so after glue up I edge sand the extra glue off the edges, check center line with a string, then I grind the limb near the lines, I then use a sliding measuring tool to check the distance from center to edge of every other numbered line..in other words line 15 should be the same distance left and right from center line on both top and bottom limbs... Since I went to this method I have not had problems with twists or tiller at brace.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/marchbowparts_zps045ca2fd.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/marchbowparts_zps045ca2fd.jpg.html) (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/6%20steel%20rule_zps4idjgx2q.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/6%20steel%20rule_zps4idjgx2q.jpg.html) (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/DCbowgridglass_zps23fd2e02.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/DCbowgridglass_zps23fd2e02.jpg.html)
another example of my grid system from last week.. these are ILF take down limbs after glue up and the one on left has been Rough sanded only, I later did the fine precision sanding. I use the center line to drill my holes for the ILF dovetail and bolt slot..I use a drill jig. Before glue up I drill a hole thru all laminations, I use a self centering drill jig, I lightly screw pieces down to form at glue up and use side pieces to hold lams straight on form. The bow in middle (dark walnut veneers) has The limbs on the right on it.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/ugly%20ilf%20limbs_zpsc46rinvi.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/ugly%20ilf%20limbs_zpsc46rinvi.jpg.html) (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/LHbowtree_zps6qxzdfec.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/LHbowtree_zps6qxzdfec.jpg.html)
Very good idea - and those bows look great.