Just wondering what you have found to be the best combo in demensions and materials of your own ASL bows
ie.. Limb and handle material, length, width at F.O. And at tips.
TTT
No takers???
I would have to build a huge number of additional bows with a broad variation in design, materials and measurements in order to come up with an opinion on that. Then, it would only be my opinion that would be colored by my own preference and prejudice.
Fifty bowyer's might give you as many different answers.
But, it is an interesting question to ponder and speculate about. It's one of the questions that make this bow building intriguing.
I'm only looking for there opinion, that's why I'm asking.
OK, I'll give it a shot. Riser material; maple, walnut, action wood, elm, purpleheart, rosewood,y yellow heart. The only one I might not use again would be the yellow heart. It seemed a bit soft. Walnut is considered soft by many, but mine is dense and heavy for walnut. Sixteen to eighteen inches long.
Limbs; 66 go 72" mostly 68. Flat or slightly set back. Set back for speed, flat for soft shooting. 1 3/8 to 1 1/8 at the fades. 5/16 to 3/8 at the nocks. The classic Hill is wider at the tips. No tip wedge.
Limb material has been elm, maple and zebra wood. I can detect no difference in performance.
If I'm heading for a standard design it is 1 1/8 at the fades, 68" long, 3/8 tips, 15" riser, hill style flat grip, shallow cut shelf, no tip wedge, maple or elm core.
Thanks Monterey
I've been building them 1"@fades and 7/16"@ tips with a 14" riser.
But you with those narrower tips wow that's tiny. I'd like to see one. Thanks.
Standard Hill for my builds has a 13.5" riser. 1-1/16 to 1-1/8 at the fades, about 7/16 at the tips. I usually trap the back, so the back at the tips is smaller. I put tip wedges in, but no overlays. I really like a touch of string follow over backset or flat. Shoot sweeter with very little difference in performance (but there is some.) I like lighter woods for the cores. My favorite was one with yew. But I've had good luck with walnut, cherry, and also like locust (although a bit heavier.) I make my bottom limb 1/2" shorter than my upper and found that with a almost even to 1/16 positive tiller to make a sweet shot with little hand shock.
As has been mentioned, this is where I ended up that seems to work for ASL. But I have not extensively tested all the alternatives out there and I know others have different opinions.
Mine are normally from 64'' to 68'', mainly the latter unless for shorter people. 1 1/8'' at fades down to 7/16- 1/2'' at tips, 16'' risers and total of .004 tapers. sometimes I go for one parallel and 3 x .001 tapers. Haven't noticed any huge difference between them.Always 'boo cores mostly as the outcome is far more predictable, with some hardwood veneer on belly.
The narrow tips are definitely not Hill like. I get away with it by doing a straight near pyramid front profile and and a .002 taper. I'll check and see if I have a photo.
Found a pic.
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/Archery/b10%20zebra/Strnock.jpg)
Oh that reminds me. .005 to .008 taper depending on draw weight/stack. Got to that by measuring a lot of the better bows from the classic Hill bowyers. A lot less hand shock than the ones with sub 0.005 tapers.
Thanks Canopyboy and Bigbob for your input, sounds like I'm right in the ballpark for ASL building.
The sweetest one I ever saw in person was one of Nates Sunsethills and that's what I've tried to copy, narrow, trapped and petite.
I haven't noticed any handshock in mine with the .004 tapers. actually very smooth and quiet.
None in mine at .002, but the taper needed for a narrow small tipped bow is all different from a true Hill design.
I avoid calling mine "Hill" bows and prefer ASL or American Flatbow. I will occasionally refer to them as "Hillish".
I have made bows with tapers of .004 all the way up to .012.5". As i went up in taper the thump got less and less. My favorite bow to date is a .012" taper 69" 54@28 longbow. This bow doesn't stack at all at my 29.5" draw. It is just over 1" at the fades and just over 3/8" at the tips. The total stack is .720 with .050 glass belly and back. To get that stack to my poundage I trapped it to the belly and rounded it like an Osage selfbow. Spent many hours getting it right with no lean or limb twist but it is perfect. Too hard to duplicate that so I don't try.
For cores i like lamboo, maple, and love walnut. I don't notice any difference between these. I would like to try more elm, red cedar and cherry. I did make 2 bows with osage for limbs and did find those to have more thump.
I use a 4 to 6" tip wedge and usually not a tip overlay. I like a 12-14" riser. Most bows I make now for myself use a .011 taper, total stacks in the hi .600s, 1 1/8" at fades, 3/8" at tips, 6" wedge, and i like them trapped to the belly (mostly for looks).
I find that these are the best shooting bows I've shot. Smooth, quick, quiet, and look cool.
But...that's just me.
Eric
Obviously I might be biased. :biglaugh:
Thanks typical2 that's good info. I've been building mine with a .006 taper to the limbs and like the way they feel and look. Did make 2 with a .008 taper and the tips were a little whip ended looking for my taste. But they shot ok also used Osage in the limbs on one of them and noticed more "thump" than my black walnut one.
Thank you for your input, you make a "newbe" very happy.
After a few yew self bows, and a few to light to heavy bows, 28 years back, I'm hooked on Trad. Archery again.
These days I can find a lot good information for bow making .
thanks to you all.
Now making a classic short riser ASL with a Yew laminate/riser and Yew ( glass ) limbs with a bamboo core.
More info ( stack ) very welcome.
Whip ended is most excellent in Hill style. Add a wedge and good to go.
I like a 15" riser of heavy strong wood. Limbs should be 68" and use lighter woods. 1.125" at fades down to .5" tips. .006 taper for 3 lams. 4th lam parallel coming up the belly .070. Often I split that parallel lam with two parallel veneers.