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After a lot of research on this site I am ready to start tillering my first trilam. It is hickory, cherry and ipe. Can I start by removing the corners as described in Dean Torges book with a rasp? I ordered the bowyers edge tool and scrapers but they won't be in for a while.
Also I read that Roy cuts an inch off to make his bow asymmetrical. I am not sure if I this would affect the recurved end. Also should I offset the handle from center or just go 2" on each side and place arrow rest above 2" mark. I'm sure you all have answered these questions before but I was having trouble finding them. Thanks in advance. (http://s1383.photobucket.com/user/joeytrun/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshx4vgnfs.jpg.html)
Jeez...where the heck is Roy when you need him? :)
Here's a thread that he helped a guy along with a while back. Should answer a few of your questions until Roy rolls in.
Good luck to you!
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=009703;p=1
Here's another one. They're both boo backed, but it's the same principle as a hickory backed bow. I make mine with symmetric limbs and put my rest about 1 1/2" up from the center of the handle. Then I tiller it on my tree from that point (where the rest is). I'll wait 'til Roy chimes in to tell me I'm doing it all wrong. ;)
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012149;p=1
Since the bow is laid out symmetrical now, find the exact center of the riser from tip to tip, measure up 2 inches from center and that is the top of handle, "arrow rest". Then measure down 2 inches from center and that's the bottom of the handle. You could cut 1 inch off the bottom limb after finding the center as above. It won't change the reflex too much. However, I cut 1 1/4 off the bottom limb before I do my glue up. Yes you can start rasping in the facets now.
If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later. I'd start working it like any stave and Dean's method will work fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by Pat B:
If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later. I'd start working it like any stave and Dean's method will work fine.
X2
If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later.
Only if he pulls it from the center of the handle and leaves it symmetrical! But I don't adhere to pulling from the center of the handle, then pulling it 2.5 inches higher than that when shooting it. Why pull a bow on a tree from some other place than where your drawing hand will be when shooting?