i am looking to build a short static recurve- kinda similar in concept to the sheep eater bow.
abou too start working on the form,
any advice with regards to layup?
1. should the lams be tapered. and at what rate ?
2. i imagine it would need some kind of tip wedge, to keep it static. and if so what sort of dimensions?
3. i know without looking at the form etc, but any idea for a starting stack thickness- aiming for a roughly 50# bow at 29" draw for a 50" bow :D
any help with this project would be greatly appreciated- as i am totally new to the world of recurves
many thanks
wayne
I have a sheep eater bow T/D
Page 3 STATIC RECURVE T/D MORE
I have built 3 static recurves based off that bow
2-.002 tapers per limb .030 glass
.030 glass wedge 8-1/2" long
the limb width taper is .010 per inch
how long is the bow going to be?
Wayne,
Glass or Boo backed or Selfbow?
:dunno:
sorry Bert, a glass bow!
trying my hand at a few glass bows lately- fun learning something new!.
is that a two piece or a three piece takedown. and i assume tip wedges are what you are reffering to.
thanks
3 piece yes tip wedges
Sounds like a cool plan Wayne. I love the look of those sheep eater bows. Judging from the drawn pics I've seen of them I believe Mr. Daniel is right on regarding the taper. They do seem to use quite a bit to bend so mch in the mid limb. I'd imagine it stays fairly wide in the limb until the static section, again just as Mark was saying.
Can't wait to see that come together.
Maybe if someone has a sheep eater they will caliper eh limb thickness but it sounds like mark will have the data.
Good luck!
This is the T/D version of the sheep eater
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/100_0324_zpsaad2a524.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/100_0324_zpsaad2a524.jpg.html)
I'll be interested to see what you come up with!
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/IMG_0537.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/IMG_0537.jpg.html)
Wayne, I know you're talking glass but....
and it works like designed very well :eek:
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/untitled-1.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/untitled-1.jpg.html)
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/IMG_0527.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/IMG_0527.jpg.html)
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/IMG_0530.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/IMG_0530.jpg.html)
Boo backed Walnut Osage, 65# @ 28" :bigsmyl:
Terrific looking bow, Bert! Love the look of that walnut between the boo and osage. Mind if I ask how long your bow is?
Thanks Greg,
it's 60" ntn :archer2:
oooo... very cool!!!
but didnt realise that they sold whole moose at the packers like that for photos :D :D
of course i am very envious- a beautiful animal, and even better eating- good shooting mate.
you know i still tell the story to everyone i meet in the bow world, about you standing balls deep in a freezing alaskan creek, and shooting a brown bear on the other side of the creek, on day 10 of your 10 day hunt :eek: :scared: :eek: :scared:
yer crazeee man!
that must have taken quite some bending Bert, no fractures on the belly?
did you steam or dry heat?
anybody any suggestions for the stack thickness, as a starting point on the glass - one piece- sheep eater type bow- 50" long- looking for about #50 at 29"
how does that stus calculater work- do you have to have a benchmark input first- ie: one completed bow- then it will give for the other draw weights
thanks
Sorry Wayne didn't mean to hijack your post.
No fractures, I boiled all three, the Osage Wanut and the Bamboo.
I build a 60" ntn Recurve much like the old style recurves from the 50's.
Specs: 18" riser
2 -.042 paralell Bamboo lam's
1 -.090 tapered Bamboo lam .002 per"
.050 Black Glass both on the Back
and the Belly
Comes out for me at 50# @ 28"
I know it's a bit longer than what you are wanting to build but maybe you can use some of my numbers??
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/P1020220_zps01eda087.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/P1020220_zps01eda087.jpg.html)
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/P1020221_zps7839c391.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/P1020221_zps7839c391.jpg.html)
Thanks for the length info, Bert. That one is at the top of my "Bows I HAVE to make list." Your glass recurve is a beauty as well. Don't worry about hijacking Wayne's thread; just keep posting more of your bows. :D
I have a static recurve and will do some measuring and post the specs here later.
X2 Greg- its all related and helpfull- absolutely no umbrage taken.
i love his bows- always seems to build stuff on the outer limits!
thanks Mike- all the info will be of a great help
many thanks
wayne
Ok, here is the info on the bow I mentioned earlier
Howat Cavalier Pre-Martin but not sure of vintage
Marked weight 55# @28"
Actual weight 43# @28" (my scale is suspect)
Length 62"
Width @ fades 1.740
Width 1/2 way to tips 1.620
Width at tips .765
Riser Length appx 21.5"
Limb length fade to nock appx 19.25
Glass front and back appx .030
two wood lams:
.........one on back of riser tapered
.........one on face of riser parralel
Limb thickness at fades .350
limb thickness 12" from fades .253
Rate of taper appears to be .008 per inch
(Tapered lam is ground to stop taper just at the recurve and then verry slightly increases in thickness to the tip)
no tip wedge
overlay on the face of the bow would appear to apply some stiffnes to the limb tip.
That taper rate surprised me but not so much considering that the width tapers very little in the first 12 inches and the tips are rather wide IMO for any recurve design.
This bow shoots a 520 gr arrow at about 169 fps.
Here are pics
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/fulllsideunsturng_zpsfb463c84.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/fullstrunglside_zps6b69e1c0.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/handlelside_zps4f890e61.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/limbbackprofile_zps3eafce40.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/tipoverlay_zps3b8907b9.jpg)
(http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac170/longcruise/cavalier/tipside_zpsa3e59c1e.jpg)
awesome Mike- thanks very much :thumbsup:
Nice bow mike. What length are you drawing it to when shooting that 169fps?
28.5" I need to get some iron from the weight set and check the scale. Just not believing that 43#!
Checked my bow scale with a known weight and it checks out. Will recheck the bow weight and chrono it again too. Not sure of my memory on the speed and can't find the notes
Ok, first I double checked the draw weight. It came in at 45.5# at my 28.5 draw.
chronoed the same 520 gr arrow three times with the following results.
#1....168.3
#2....169.3
#3....169.4
average = 169 fps
next came a 650 gr arrow. Three shots.
#1....162.2
#2....162.5
#3....162.5
average = 162.4
Had a sudden impulse to try a light weight so nocked up one of the grandson's 375 gr arrows and got 209.4 fps.
Those are some serious numbers! Loving the look of the sharp angles on those limbs. Thanks for doing all the testing monterey! I'm sure a good chunk of us got some useful/applicable info out of that.
monterey
how far in front of the arrow tip (or back of the bow)do you put your chronograph
nice numbers
that's is very cool mark.
say, is there a standard distance for chrono placement?
Its four feet.
Wayne....I used to help Brent build the sheepeaters when he first "re-introduced" that style. In fact I helped him coin the name.
I can't remember the tapers...we did a lot of trial and error at first to come up with our formulas. I can tell you that we didn't use any tip-wedges, just doubled up the glass on the belly side to make the static tips.
Mark, are you saying that the second layer of glass was applied only at the recurve point.
Yep...from the tip, around the bend, then feathered to nothing. On the belly side...
Mark--- the one I have has the FG tip wedge between the cores
Both cores are .002's
I got mine from Brent this year.
I put a .050 glass wedge in my BBWO as well thinking that it would help with not pulling the "curve" out, it did !!
(http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh216/quartermoonlongbows/IMG_0528.jpg) (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/quartermoonlongbows/media/IMG_0528.jpg.html)