Hey Guys-
With deer season approaching I figure it's time to get my but in gear and build myself a bow. I have gifted the 8 bows that I have built which has left me with nothing for the season.
I am planning on building a new hill style bow. I have been working with Brad on designing the riser of this bow.
My question is the fades are a little steeper than I normally have and am having some fitting issues.
I was wondering is there a way to pre-bend the lams on the fades by using either heat or steam to assist with glue up and making sure everything fits perfect.
Here is my riser so far... it is 1 5/8 tall and 14 inches long
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/A89C4717-D9DD-4A3E-B737-AE68E1EE1108.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/A89C4717-D9DD-4A3E-B737-AE68E1EE1108.jpg.html)
Thanks for the help fellas... Looking to get this thing build within the month so I can show it off at my next bowhunter ed class I am teaching on the 31st.
Justin
Quick question- are you using a hose or rubber bands and how thick are the lams running up the ramp? If you are using a hose you can add some wedges (I use dowels) between the form and the hose in that area to apply more pressure.
Air hose trux
It's gonna be a .110 butt thickness with .001 taper. One .030 parallel lam of yew too
One solution is to put a very thin parallel lamb over the riser and keep the tapers under the riser. Some hills were built with no lam over the top, just the glass.
what are the rest of your specs, eg., total taper, widths, etc.?
you can back taper[flatten/thin] the section that sits on the ramps--to make it easier to conform--and shims should help
I have some shims I've cut out of rubber barn mat and sanded to shape for ramps-they go on top of the pressure strips-under the hose
Like monterey said, if you have a thinner lam (parallel or taper)move it to the belly and up the fades.
I haven't noticed any difference with the order of lams within a stack.
Yea I'd put the .110 taper on the face side and run the .030 up the ramp with the glass...
Ok guys thanks a lot!
I use short, steep risers and have had some trouble getting them to close up during dry clampups with thicker lams going up the riser. I have had good luck pre-bending them. I've done it with a heat gun, but my new favorite is just putting the bow in the oven under pressure with no glue. 180 degrees for a few hours and you will see your lams come out bent in the general shape of your form. Add glue and repeat for the final product.
Cool Canopyboy... I will try that next time. I have a new issue where the lams are not tight under pressure just under the riser where they are jointed... Do I need to sand the entire lams to get them to line up correctly?
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/584942DD-CE7B-450F-9E82-DC524F61661D.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/584942DD-CE7B-450F-9E82-DC524F61661D.jpg.html)
Under 70# I still got a ton of light... Don't think it will be an issue because it will be under a leather wrap but still annoys me to no end
(http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/5F03F8FD-4227-4B25-B714-A92F5FDC1714.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/5F03F8FD-4227-4B25-B714-A92F5FDC1714.jpg.html)
Are there tapers in the back for the bow? Does that for have backset built into? Anytime put tapers on the back , I put a reverse taper on the press. Many go without it but it glues up good for me.
Ya I figured it out now... Set the lams lightly on my belt sander till I got them tight... This is a new supplier for lams for me and I don't think that I will use them again. Never had these issues with Kenny... Man I miss Kenny!
QuoteOriginally posted by bowhntineverythingnh03743:
Set the lams lightly on my belt sander till I got them tight
That is what I do. What do you see being wrong with the lams?
The gaps... I usually just join them and they lay completely flat. I dunno if there are ground differently than normal.
don't sand or grind anything yet.
check your riser and form with a straight edge
put some masking tape on the form only under the gap several layers, if that takes the gap out then your form or riser don't match.
Do what Eric said. Once glued together, just lay the lam center area on a belt and flatten it out a bit. Then it will sandwich nicely and flat. Also, make sure you have enough glue and pressure on the riser.
If you have those gaps after glue up, fill it with super glue and ignore it.
Well got the bow ready to work on the nocks. This bow seemed extremely thick. It's over a half inch thick. Tried to bend it just by pushing on the ground. Son of a gun it barely bends... This thing seems like it's gonna be a 100# bow. So disappointed with everything with this bow. Such a waste of money and time to have a good looking stick.
Time to look up a new supplier and get a correct bow
Well, don't toss it, there are a few guys around who like those elephant bows!
Can you tell us what the ntn length, width at fades, total stack and total taper is on this bow?
I've seen Typical2 remove some serious draw weight from a bow! ;) may be possible to end up with a shooter.
Well called the gentleman who made the lams for me... Wicked nice guy who is gonna make it right. Plus I added two extra lam pairs which were supposed to be packing. The stack was supposed to be .510 total and it's .722 with the extra. I'm embarrassed when we talked.
Now that's funny right there! Type of thing I would do! Thanks for sharing...
I thought a 6 lam stack looked a bit much
In the words of Homer Simpson - "Doh!"
At least you know that you'll never make that mistake again.
Yes and the supplier said he will change how he packs them too... Guess I'm not the only one who had done this.
Bingham shipments have also had packing strips included. Was very confusing first time around. Lately the have been marked "packing strips". Got em saved. Look like they could be fashioned into sleds for the lam grinder I intend to build . . . eventually!
If you can, borrow or Buy a good micrometer, measure every piece in your stack before glue up. In 2009 I bought a cheap digital micrometer from Lowes..it worked OK for a while, got another one in 2011. It started having trouble zeroing out even with a new battery. So i am now on #3..I just bought a iGaging absolute orgin digital on sale for $40. So far it is good. Looking back I should have bought a nice Mitutoyo in 2009..
Justin, I'll just keep my mouth shut on this one...
LMAO
LMAO
LMAO
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Didn't think that was ever a possibility, let alone an option...
Ah, ya took your smarty pants pill today I see...