I am looking to build either a pyramid or Mollegabet style board bow.
I have access to some quarter sawn white oak and am thinking that this would make a good material to use.
Would this be suitable? If I chase the growth rings would I have to back it?
White oak is known for it ability to be steam bent. Would it be ok to steam bend and reflex/recurve it? Or would this weaken the integrity of the wood too much?
Here is a link to one I made a couple of years ago.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=35344.0
I backed it with rawhide for protection before I skinned it. I followed the specs on this build along except mine is white oak backed with rawhide, then skinned. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=5129.0
Is this your first wood bow?
If so I'd probably suggest following one of the many board bow build-alongs. I'd make it pyramid style.
White oak is suitable, and I'm sure it's possible to bend with steam or dry heat, but learn to walk before you run. The fewer complicating factors you introduce into e build the more likely you will be successful.
I'd say build a simple mermaid board bow, get the tillering experience and then start getting wild and crazy on the next one.
For 1/4 sawn the edge grain has to be straight tip to tip. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
pyramid is the way to go, if it's your first i'd just go with a flat bow, 4" grip 2" fades straight taper to 1/2" tips and an even thickness taper of about a half in to start will get you in the ballpark, heat treat the belly to reduce set and give it a couple inches of reflex once you get it down to floor tiller
this might help you out some http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
so wassa mermaid bow dude???
you fantasizing?? :eek: :D
Have done quite a few board bows in pyramid style for the kids. With the correct grain, there is no ring chasing involved. Mine are all tillered by sanding the belly. 4esttrekker has a classic build along for a pyramid. Highly recommend it!
Not having a decent band saw, mine get sawed to thickness on a table saw with the sawed side becoming the belly. Riser material is glued directly to the belly and then shaped on a spindle sander or a drum on a drill press. You need good glue when doing it that way. My first handle popped off using TB III.
Last one was a 70" mollegebat which followed the pyramid design out to about eight inches from the tips. Went down to about 3/4" wide at that point. There I glued a 1/4 inch thick slat of oak. After cutting the profile, tapered about 1 1/4" of the slat to avery thin wedge and then reduced the rest of the thicknesses as much as possible while still retaining enough stiffness to limit bending to the short fade area. Was able to take that tip lam down to a bit less than 1/16" without getting any bend in that last 7 or 8 inches. Limb tips were about 5/16" wide.
Shoots great, but ended up at only 26# at 28". Sorry for no pics, while doing these projects I'm usually so hyper focused that pics don't cross my mind.
sent that bow home with my 11 year old grandson just a few hours ago. Kinda long for him but he loves it.
Forgot to mention, was 2 1/2" at the fades.