I just joined here and love archery. Primitive mostly.
I just started a juniper bow that I will back with sinew. Never done one so would anyone have any advice? I have made a lot of self long bows and plains pony bows .
I haven't worked with juniper(except ERC)but I've heard that it makes a great short sinew backed bow. I think you use sapwood and heartwood. I do have a stave from Oregon but I haven't got to it yet.
I have a board a friend gave me. I had thought about a maple or ash back on mine. Good luck and keep us posted.
please post your progress and lots of pictures.
How do I post pictures here? I will try. I cut a pig nut hickory tree today. 7" diameter 6' long. All I could carry out on my shoulder. Took about an hour to walk it out. This old man is tired.
Daniel
Welcome aboard! X2 what Bob at Work said!!! We love pics!!!
Welcome! I use Photobucket to post pictures on here, but I know there are other photo sharing sites. Upload your pictures to Photobucket and then you can transfer them to the forum by copying and pasting the IMG code. Give us a shout if you run into any problems. Usually works good for me.
I see you are in Mo. and I'm in Arkansas...where did you find a good piece of Juniper? I want to make a sinew backed Juniper but ERC is the best I can do around here.
From Chuck out east. There was an article on him in Primitive Archer. I spotted a Juniper today up
here in the woods. Not sure if there is any good pieces though. I will go back and check Friday.
hey daniel,what do you want to know..is the wood western juniper...IF so then like pat said short and wide make wonderful bows..keenan howard has showen me stuff about it..you need to over build your limbs because it is a softer and lighter wood..all so sinew backing juniper is the best combo i have ever seen...and yes i live in juniper country..if you have any questions i will try to help out if i can..john
Thank you. I was thinking over build, but wasn't sure. I have a lot of deer leg and back strap sinew. Was wondering what would be better to use as glue. Tite Bond or hide glue? I saw a video of Ed Scott (owl man) using tite bond II.
Use hide glue, definitely. TB will work but IMO you don't get the full potential from the sinew unless you use hide glue. Make the bow on the short side for best performance too. About 2x your draw length.
Knox gelatin works well for the glue as it is food grade hide glue. I have had mixed results with Knox so on my last few sinew backed bows I used hide glue instead of Knox.
I've used both leg and back sinew and prefer back because it is longer and makes a smoother matrix with the glue. I think I used about 6 or 8 back sinews for a 47" sinew backed osage I built a few years ago.
my stave is 52" with a natural 2" D flex. Cut it to shape with my hand axe and rasp. 3/4" thick and 1 3/8 wide.
52" will make a good sinew backed bow. Kick the tips up and lay 2 or 3 courses of sinew and give them plenty of time to dry/cure.
When you talk of over build how thick are you making your limbs? I had to trim the ends , it's now 50". This is my first in juniper let alone sinew backed.
Keep it 1 3/8" for most of the length and taper the last 6" to 3/8" tips. I'd tiller the bow at lease to first brace and possibly our to half your draw before adding the sinew. You might want to take the deflex out with heat first before sinewing. As far as thickness, tillering will determine that. 5/8" is probably a good place to start but take that from someone that hasn't worked juniper.
At the center of the deflex there is a knot. I thought of taking some out and a slight recure at the tips. Going to be an adventure.
Will you post pics of the stave/bow so we can see the knot, back and belly? The knot might not be an issue with sinew backing.
By the time I get the wood reduced the knot will be mostly gone. It came out the side and not through the back.
pictures of your progress? :bigsmyl:
I think the links below will show you pics. Photobucket isn't cooperating.
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ofiebakoa/DSC01702_zps13309f5b.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ofiebakoa/media/DSC01702_zps13309f5b.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ofiebakoa/DSC01699_zps3d9e90df.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ofiebakoa/media/DSC01699_zps3d9e90df.jpg.html)
(http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ofiebakoa/DSC01704_zps7c55b173.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ofiebakoa/media/DSC01704_zps7c55b173.jpg.html)
Not much to go on yet.
Ok, I have the limbs starting to flex in the over build . Now do I cut nocks in or what? Not sure on this juniper. Ends are tapered too.
Yes, if you're getting good flex in the limbs at floor tiller, I'd cut the nocks in and put it on the tillering tree with the long string.
This seems to be a more cautious build than hickory or elm. I don't want to mess this one up.
Yeah, that deflexed hump and belly knot don't make it any easier. I'd go slowly as well. A gizmo for tillering has probably helped me get a good, even bend in the limbs more than anything else. Taking a quick picture and looking at the large image of it on my computer helps, too. I have a hard time picking out the subtle weak and stiff spots just by eye while I'm tillering it on my tree.
Ok even with the hump and knot I got er bending on my tiller stick. It comes out of that weird hump nicely. Will get a pic up to night.
the juniper bow so far. slow but sure. (http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ofiebakoa/DSC01711_zps5964faf4.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ofiebakoa/media/DSC01711_zps5964faf4.jpg.html)
Bending too much at the handle. Leave that area alone for now and get the limbs bending.
I got the limbs bending now. With the hump and a twist this has been no fun. Too stinkin hot in the garage. Doc says to loose weight and get sugar under control. Looks like I sweat it off HA HA ! I have hide glue coming so now wait and sinew it then finish tiller. Any suggestions??
now what do ya think? It's been raining in my garage. (http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/ab104/ofiebakoa/DSC01712_zps9b851565.jpg) (http://s854.photobucket.com/user/ofiebakoa/media/DSC01712_zps9b851565.jpg.html)
I would kick the tips up a bit an get more bend just behind the kicked tips first. When you are ready to sinew the back of the bow reverse brace it a few inches so the sinew can draw it into more reflex as it cures.