Hey guys, I'm wondering where you all like to start your tapers towards your limb tips?
I'm building (my first glass bow) a 64inch r/d long bow. My riser is 18" from tip tip. I bought the Bingham plans, but don't like how far into the limb they choose to start their tapers(looks funny). They start about about 3" past the riser fades, I was thinking of starting up into the fades some. Just wondering what you experienced bow builders think? Want my first bow to at least be a shooter hahaha
Better go with their plan to start and see how she bends. Every plan has a recipe that takes into account taper rate, profile, and other aspects.
After you get it profiled to plan, you can adjust from there before you put finish on.
I don't like mine to bend in the fades too hard, so I use .003 total lam taper and start side tapers about 2" past fade of riser ,after you sand the "corner" off that is there, it looks fine.
I start my taper right at the fades. I also use a .003 total lam taper but I only use a 16" riser so it doesn't bend as hard into the fades as it would with an 18". Works for me
X2 on what Kenny said. Don't ask how i know :knothead: Good luck with your first. It won't be your last...... :goldtooth:
Yep - Stick with the Bingham's design if you want to hit your desired weight. You can start experimenting once you've got a couple under your belt.
As for myself, in the 62" r/d I make, I don't start tapering the width of the limbs until about 3 inches out from the ends of the fades.
Thanks guys this website and all these forms has answered so many questions for a newbie like me, love it. Such a wealth of noledge in one location
All right guys another stupid question but that .003 taper you start is that the outside edge taper or lam taper? My fault when stating the original question or just my lack of understanding but I was talking about outside edge taper
The .003 is the thickness tapers of the lams.
QuoteOriginally posted by Horn Chaser:
The .003 is the thickness tapers of the lams.
and the shape is the profile taper----
---on my design-I start the profile taper AT the fade--then like Kenny take the corner off
all these angles should be "softened" and rounded/blended when hand sanding--build a few and you'll get a feel for it!!good luck
also--use fresh paper!!if it feels like its NOT cutting -its NOT!!
X3 on what bamboo said about fresh paper. You will work yourself to death and not get anything done with dull sandpaper!