Got my 1st tri done.
Kinda proud of this one.
62" ...or at least that's how long the slats were...
48# @28"
Hickory, Black walnut, Osage limbs.
Osage, Ipe riser
I very well might do some more with the finish once it warms up...I was really battling dust..not happy about the runs.. ( who is?)
!!!!! A WHOLE LOTTA THANKS TO ROY , BEN and KENNY!!!!!
Anyway..here she is...
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/UnstrungL.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/unstrungR.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/BraceL.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/BraceR.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/BraceBack.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/BraceBelly.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/bottomtip.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/Uppertip.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/Tipside.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/Backriser.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/Shelf.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/Bellyriser.jpg)
Almost full draw....
Fighting getting the timer on the camera to go when I was at FD without holding forever...still kinda babying this one...lol
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/trilam%202/FullDraw.jpg)
John, that looks very nice.. Congrats Mr. Bowyer...
Thank you Roy Master Bowyer..
Amongst all the other help you gave me on this one...your idea of faceting..then rounding the belly made it happen. I have no idea how else I coulda brought it down from from an estimated 75#'r..lol
...oh yeah...that was the new to me staining technique I was talking about...
Nice
congratulations :thumbsup:
Looks good! I give it :thumbsup: :thumbsup: !!!
I thought the stain sucked... LOL :laughing:
Well done!
(And I like the stain)
I like the stain alot. Howd ya do it?
Thanks guys..
Roy...at least you're honest...lol
Eric...
Made some golden-orange stain and some dark brown stain from dye and methanol.
Stained the whole bow the golden-orange color.
For the wider stripes of brown I used a strip of t-shirt material about 1/4" wide. Dipped it in the stain, blotted it off on paper towels, pulled the strip tight and did about four stripes..dip, blot and repeat. Took a little trial and error to figure out how much stain was needed to color it but not run too far.
The smaller lines were done the same way but with a piece of thread.
Took a while...lol
very cool. now where'd ya get methanol? the dye i have says to use it but i haven't seen it anywhere so i just use denatured alcohol.
that'll work too.
often you can buy methanol at a decent hardware store.
Nice one John! I really like that stain pattern. I attempted something like that on a BBO but ended up taking it all off, mine looked like crap. You nailed it :thumbsup:
nice job!!
Looks like a lot of work but the result certainly justifies it all.Great!
That looks great John. I like the stain too. Very good looking bow. The tips are my favorite thing about it.
All that to stain a stupid bow? :) LOL
Fine looking bow, John. Really like the strung profile and the stain pattern on the back. Don't listen to Roy, he's prob'ly just jealous. ;)
Upper limb is stiffer and has a subtle flat spot mid limb
It sure does look that way Blackmockingbird.
It followed the line on the tree.
I was lucky to be able to get it anywhere near a usable draw weight.
Got to the point of.."if I can get this thing to follow the line and not have any bad hinges I'll have to call it good"
From what I hear...if that line is followed, the limbs don't have to have the same bend..just no hinges...
Seems to shoot fine..maybe next time I'll do better.
Thanks for the comments guys.
very cool, that dye job looks so much like a curly wood pattern. very good job all round. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
this 'following the line' technique sure has upped the game in bow making- i am scared to make another wood bow now :D
It is fine, John.
QuoteOriginally posted by BCWV:
Nice one John! I really like that stain pattern. I attempted something like that on a BBO but ended up taking it all off, mine looked like crap. You nailed it :thumbsup:
bamboo is a whole lot harder to stain than the hickory.
...the osage is reluctant enough as it is...
Use an alcohol base aniline dye stain and you will notice a big difference.
http://woodworker.com/alcohol-soluble-brt-yellow-golden-oak-aniline-dye-mssu-845-541.asp?search=aniline dye&searchmode=2
definitely!
I tried oil based on some boo..lol..basically nothing..
...doesn't do that much to osage either.
I found if you acetone the osage a few times in succession and quickly apply oil stain you can get more color.
I don't like pulling the oils out more than needed though...so it's alcohol stain for me.
Alcohol stain is sweet, it dries in seconds and can be touched up very easily. Blends in nicely. If you want a darker finish, just keep going over it. If you get it too dark, 0000 steel wool takes it right off.
That came out really nice. I especially liek the material usaed for the tips.
How does she shoot? You going to kill something with that?
It shot really well...fast too.
I planned on killing something with it.
..but the hickory let go. I had a bit too much of a hinge in the upper limb a few inches from the fades.
I'm planning another of very similar design...maybe just a couple inches longer.
That bow looked soooo stressed to me.
you know- just a teeny weeny bit of glass on the belly and back will solve all your problems :D :D
jus a kiddin Roy!
oh yeah...the thought did cross my mind..lol
I was thinking a THIN fiberglass back, whatever core, and osage belly could be interesting...someday..maybe..
John,
I actually had some problems with white oak backing on a similar design.
Thats one of the reasons I've been moving towards the R/D profile. It helps to reduce surface tension on the backing and surface compression on the backing. Should make the bow a bit safer at a given width, length, and draw weight.
I'll get the pics up soon of one like yours I just finished, I went 60" long and 1.75" wide for a draw of only 25" and 45#.
I figure the few FPS I'd lose going wider is well worth the gain in safety. Since a wider bow takes less set, it's probably almost a wash in terms of speed.
QuoteOriginally posted by Zradix:
oh yeah...the thought did cross my mind..lol
I was thinking a THIN fiberglass back, whatever core, and osage belly could be interesting...someday..maybe..
John did the bow explode or just lift a splinter?
if it just lifted a splinter you might be able to save it with a bit of flax fiber on the back.
cracked across grain from almost the edge to 1/3 the limb width.
Thought it was shallow.
Opened it up a bit with a stringer.
Filled/pressed in super glue.
Relaxed the bow..lots of glue oozed out..so I figured I got it pretty good.
about 12 hrs later I gently started pulling it back a little and relaxing..little more ..relaxing..etc.
got about 1/2 draw and kapow..3-4" each way and down into the core..
..she's pretty much toast.
Good idea though Ben..Thank you.
man!! you are one resilient SOG!!
ya just dont quit- do you...
good on ya!!! :) :)
won't quit till my wallet or hands give out..right now my hands are :deadhorse: outta my wallet..
My fingers are getting blisters from answering Zradix's PM's the past 4 months.. :) LMAO
I'll send ya some band-aids if it'll help keep ya goin Roy.. :notworthy:
Good! You been buggin me for YEARS. What goes around comes around. :clapper:
xoxo
LOL
Hey John, if you want expert answers, PM ole Bowjunkie.. He taught me.. Sick em son :)
:bigsmyl:
Ya want his email and cell # too? :) LMAO