Until now the wood-glass bows I've made have had black glass on both back and belly. But I recently got some gorgeous laminations from Troy Breeding, here, and want to show off the beautiful grain.
So. What tips or techniques do you have for handling clear glass. Anything special or different about clear glass that I need to know? Keep in mind I use a rubberband form, not a pressure hose setup, and no heatbox (this IS Florida!).
The biggest tip I can offer is to make sure you apply the epoxy to the sanded side. There has been a thread or two lately where the maker failed to do this and had problems.
For me, I just tend to use slightly more EA-40 on the glass itself so any entrapped air can squeeze out. I actually find it a little more forgiving, black glass is like a black car, great when its perfect but a slight glass fiber tear or pull when your cutting/sanding can really show up.
Occasionally you will get clear that has some nasty fiber streaks in it, usually not that visible with lighter woods but I had one that I laid up over some really nice Walnut burl veneer - man, I thought I was gonna cry. Wiping them down well with solvent or DA will help you see any major defects better.
carpin'mark X2 Since I made sure the veneer and the clear glass have more than enough glue I haven't had a problem with light spots under the clear glass. I've been adding more glue than before to all lams so I get complete adhesion.
Agree totally with the use of more glue.
For me glue is cheap in comparison to the cost of having voids or dry spots that could result in failure.
I've also found it helps to warm the epoxy. I set the cans in front of my heater for a few hours before.
Warm glue, use plenty on both glueing surfaces and air up pressure hose slowly- 20lbs for a few minutes, 30/40 lbs for a few minutes etc.
I put the A side in the micro after I weight it up for 8-10 seconds, the be B side is already thin compared to the A. I also over do the glue as I have had spots in the clear glass. Also make sure everything is super clean, small specs and splinters will show up.
With the rubber band setup, use a strip of something about a quarter inch thick down the limb center(1/2"wide) because the bands pull real hard on edges, but make the glass cup up in center of limb, unlike the hose that puts more pressure in center.
Still use a metal pressure strip , but add something to press a bit more in center of limb.
Somebody used romex wiring, sounded like it worked great!!
Put extra bands and pressure on your riser ramps, the most likely spot to not get enough push...
Oh, and use an air hose form.. :laughing:
Thanks a bunch Kenny! Where the heck were you last week when I got cup in the end of the left recurve tipof this Scythian I'm building!! Sheesh! It'll work out OK though. The epoxy-filled cup will become the pin nock.
I'll definitely remember the raised center tip!
(http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b282/kenhulme/SymScythianBelly1280x235_zpsc34a45d9.jpg)
I've also heard of guys using an old V-belt for the center strip.
Or just use an air hose form. :knothead:
so kenny do you think an air hose would work with a shape as complex as the bow above?
thanks
wayne
so now that you have all that free time Kenny, how is that recurve coming along? :D
I don't think the hose might work very well on that snakey of a bow...
The recurve project is still just one bow hanging in shop. ;)
X2 on the warm glue. Cold glue is tough to mix and tough to spread. Put mine in front of the heater for a short while also. Works wonders, and Lord knows I am no wonder maker! :knothead: