It's snowing...again.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08121.jpg)
I have nothing to do all day and pretty much no way to do it if I did, so I'm building a bow. I have a whole pile of osage under my bench that should be ready to make something out of. How about I take TradGang along? Let me finish my breakfast and we'll see what we got to work with.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08120.jpg)
Mmm. Steel cut oats, golden raisens, honey, almonds and a dash of salt. Good carb loading for a hour or so of chasing a ring. Yes I had to go out this morning to Einstein's bagels to take my daughter to work! Don't tell her but I put some Starbuck's that I brewed here at home in the cup - shhhhh!
I'm stuck at work, finished with my jobs with 5 hours left in the shift, and bored. I'll be watching.
I'm gonna work on an osage selfbow too when I get home.
Here's the pile under the bench. Lately I've been just pulling the first thing I see out and making the best bow that I can from it. That one up front looks OK to me.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08122.jpg)
It's a big ole stave, cut a couple years ago in Indiana. It's currently 73" but has a big dogleg we'll have to deal with.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08124.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08123.jpg)
The dogleg starts at about 46" from the straight end so I can't get rid of it all. I think I am going go for 64" total length bow and make it 55# at 28".
First thing I need to check is the straight end for drying checks or other issues to see if I need to trim it off any. Looks pretty good to me.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08126.jpg)
So I mark it at 64" and cut it on the bandsaw.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08127.jpg)
Next I need to decide if I can get 2 bows from this piece. My minimum across the bark dimension for 2 bows is 3" so I go to the skinny end and measure.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08128.jpg)
A little over 2-1/2" ain't gonna' make it. I could try but it's better to get 1 great bow instead of 2 so-so bows.
Next on to stripping the bark and sapwood.
Looking good John. Rings look great on that stave and I don't think that dogleg will cause you too much trouble. I've seen you make great bows out of much trickier wood. Will keep checking in as I work on my swap bow today.
Man, that has some thick rings.
Snowy and cold here today as well John. I'll keep you company on this one!
John, it warms my heart to see a shop as full of sawdust and wood as yours. It says come on in and have some fun. :campfire:
Dave.
Must be busy puttin heat into that drawknife. Don't get it too hot and take the temper out of her, John :)
This piece has nice rings but I think it's from the compression side of the tree. It has a bit of deflex and I'll have to make it just a touch wider to make up for the less springy wood than we would find in a tension side stave. Still, it's pretty awesome stuff. Some of the young rings are about 3/16". My chosen ring is about 1/8". The best part about this stave is the nice flat back. I'll make the belly flat for a really rectangular and efficient cross section.
OK, where were we. Ahh...chasing the ring. I use the bandsaw for as much of this as possible. Saves on the 47 year old joints.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08129.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08130.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08132.jpg) (http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08131.jpg)
Now this is how I do it. It takes some practice and a sharp blade in a well-turned saw. If you don't have these pre-requisites, stick to the drawknife. This thing was so thick, even I had to slum it for half the bow and use hand tools.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08133.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08134.jpg)
OK, so obviously, this only gets us so far. I like to chase the ring above the ring I want and then lay the bow out, cut it wide and then chase the final ring.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08135.jpg)
Mark all the gotchas prior to laying it out.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08136.jpg)
Use a weighted string to see how straight you might be able to get your layout.
So one limb is straight and the other is straight until we hit the dogleg.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08137.jpg)
Mark the center of the stave. and start thinking about your options.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08138.jpg)
I'm using the Ferret Floppy "Bowyer's Rule" to layout a 4" handle and 2" fades. I'll make the bow full width for 6" of the limb and taper to 1/2" nocks. I'm starting with 1-1/2" but the final width will be more like 1-1/4".
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08139.jpg)
I can use a yard stick for the straight limb. I chose the dogleg for the lower limb since that will bend to the left for a right handed bow. But I have a heatgun and I'll line it up later so that the string bisects the handle.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08140.jpg)
For the dogleg limb, I simply divided the section that bends into 4 equal parts. I am going from 1-1/2" full width to 1/2" at the nock, or 1" total. Divide that by four and each section decreases in width by 1/4". Mark the dividing lines at 1-1/2", 1-1/4", 1", 3/4" and then connect the dots. You'll get a nice bend to match the natural curve.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08142.jpg)
You can use this same technique for really snaky limbs but it often takes a little more creativity to get the final layout on those.
Double check that none of your gotchas are in bad places. This one is close but it will be fine.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08143.jpg)
And cut it out wide. I pretty much just leave the line and that gives me some fudge room for final layout.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08144.jpg)
I am about to remove the top ring so before I lose all my measurements, I mark them on the side.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08145.jpg)
As I chase a ring, I take care not to scalp over pins and knots. I chase them from both sides, never coming over the top and ripping out grain on the downhill swipe.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08146.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08147.jpg)
Here's another one.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08148.jpg)
If you do it right, the last bit will just pop off, leaving some cleanup with gentler tools.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08149.jpg)
A scraper and wood carving chisel help with that part.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08150.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08151.jpg)
This leaves it standing pretty proud so I take a gentle touch with a half round file and some sandpaper to make it smooth.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08152.jpg)
You need to expect some complications along the way. For instance, the cluster of pins that didn't seem to be much of a problem initially are a little bigger than I like.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08153.jpg)
In my initial layout, they are in the near handle part of the upper limb. This part bends quite a bit so I would rather they not be there. In all likelihood, they are not a big problem but I can get them out of that heavily bending area by simply flipping my layout and tweaking my non-bending handle down a bit in the bow.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08154.jpg)
The upper limb is now the lower limb and the cluster is in the non-bending fade.
Interesting and nice yellow wood. By the way, 47 is just a spring chicken ;) Bue--.
Looking good John! Makes this glass guy want to get some Osage and try one of my own. You make it look easier than I'm sure it is!!
Good day for it - thanks John!
So my next step is correcting some of the character with the heatgun and my caul.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08162.jpg)
I don't usually use oil on this part but since I would like to get this done today, and heating dries the wood out, I'm gonna give it a shot.
A liberal coating with some extra virgin olive oil and we get to the toasting. I have really become a fan of toasting the belly of osage bows. I believe it has helped reduce set and made for quicker, more durable bows. I also make a lot more flat belly bows than I used to for the same reason.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08163.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08164.jpg)
The oil definitely changes the amount of color change there is. I'm not really sure if I am getting it hot enough or too hot at this point. I guess we'll see.
This is the dogleg side.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08165.jpg)
Here it is after correcting the other limb which was straight but had significant deflex.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08166.jpg)
I'll let it cool for an hour or so out in the cold. It's stopped snowing for now although I guess we are supposed to get more later.
hey i got the same caul. i want me one of them bowyer's rules. question for you, when you snap that straight line down the stave doesn't that give you some grain runout? it may not be necessary, but i always draw my centerline following the grain of the wood under good light, and then draw the rest of the bow around the centerline.
btw if that reads in any way as if im telling you how to do it that is not at all how i meant it. I know my experience level and have a good idea of yours... and you definitely win ;)
oh and one more question, do you ever have a problem with the back getting toasted when you heat it on the caul like that? on mine the back of the caul traps the heat in and directs it onto the back of the bow, so i started using one that doesn't have a back on it when i can... just a 2x6 shaped on the bandsaw.
i had the same problem- the hot air was blown back onto the back of the bow- and toasted the back- chased another ring, backed it with silk- still shooting well in NZ now with a mate there.
This is great, John and I will be following along. I started on my first osage stave a couple of weekends ago and have realized that I didn't choose wisely as far as the stave goes. It's narrow with some propeller twist and deflexed on one end. I'm floor tillering it now and hope to try the heat corrections soon. Anyway, thanks for posting this. No snow here today but it's 4 degrees. :(
Eric,
The grain was straight here except for the dogleg where I curved the layout. The effect is the same as running a centerline with the grain. Really snaky staves demand a different approach. I have had problems with heat bouncing but I take care not to go too far in a particular area. I have a true toasting caul without sides if I need to go a little further.
Thanks for all the nice remarks.
John
Directly off the caul.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08167.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08168.jpg)
I like to clean all the edges up and double check everything with calipers before tillering. I mark the stave every 3" and compare the limbs. I also sight don the edge to make sure there is no goofiness going on.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08169.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08170.jpg)
OK we are about ready to start making a bow.
The top nocks are cut about 3/4" from the tip.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08171.jpg)
I cut the bottom nocks about 1/4" from the tips.
I did floor tiller and it looked pretty good so I braced it really low.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08172.jpg)
The right (upper) limb is a bit strong so I'll give it a few rasp strokes to even things up a bit.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08173.jpg)
That's better but both limbs need some work in the outer half.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08174.jpg)
After a few cycles, that looks a bit better. I'm gonna raise the brace height a bit and see where we are.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08175.jpg)
Looking at it now, I realize I wen t abit too high but that is hindsight a guess. I should have gone to maybe 3" instead of the 5 or 6 here.
Both outer limbs need work.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08176.jpg)
The left is coming around but the right needs a bit more.
I thought I got a picture but I must not have. Anyway, I got the right to come round a bit and started pulling to 20" or so.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08177.jpg)
jumpin' jimminey
turbo bow building 101
Both limbs still need work in the outer half, the right more than the left.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08178.jpg)
Coming round a bit.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08179.jpg)
Let's try that again.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC08180.jpg)
That's looking OK but I am a bit worried about the feel of the bow. It seems mushy and light even though the design should be about right for a 50# bow. I unstrung it and it recovered slowly. All those are indications of too much moisture in the wood. Now this doesn't surprise me a whole lot given the size of the original stave even though it was cut 2 years ago.
At any rate, I think I am done with this one for now. It needs to dry for a while. I never bent it past 22" so I am sure there is no damage done. I'll give it a month or so and try again. Thanks for watching.
Really like the profile after you heat treated it, especially given how much the one limb was deflexed. Gives me hope for mine. Will check back in a month or so. Hopefully mine will be floor tillered by then. :rolleyes:
I have a pinless moisture meter that has been a real eye opener. I got a stave out from under my house the other day that had been cut 8 years ago, my moisture meter said it was still 18% MC, probably from being under the house.
A cut down to slats and placed in my drying box it was down to 12% after a couple of weeks, ambient for wood in my area.
Looking good Eric. We'll catch up with ya after she dries out some more.
I really hate to keep sounding like im questioning you... But i cant get past how it looks like its bending to much at the fades. I KNOW you know what youre doing... Cause ive seen your work. Do you now just bring the outer limbs along until you get to full draw... And not let it bend any more at the fades? Just tryin to learn from a master. ;)
John, I believe you started this buildalong rage years ago. I remember seeing your buildalong over on the LW long about '98.
Good luck with that stave.
As an aside have a pin type meter and use it all the time right down to the first stringing. If I get a reading above 8-10% for osage I stop.
Jawge
Echatham, Yes. I am no master, I just like to make bows. Some are good, some...not so much. But I learn something every time.
Thanks George.
I never intended these buildalongs to be instructional but they kinda got that way. I mostly wanted to learn from Jim Fetrow, Mickey Lotz, Dean Torges, Tim Baker, Jim Hamm, and the other experienced bowmakers that were hanging out on the LW at the time. Then I got a bit of experience and learned a little HTML code, and the rest is history.
Disclaimer: This is just the way I do things. It is imperfect and changeable. I often make it up as I go along. So enjoy the show but please don't blame me if you cut your finger off, break a band saw blade or ruin a stave.
thanks for posting i enjoyed that . pretty awesome.
John, thanks for taking the time to take pics along the way and posting them. As you mentioned the bowyers you learned from, now you are the teacher for many of us beginners. Keep them coming.
Thanks John, I think i could debate you on the master thing ;) I learn from each one too, and i try to pick up a thing or two from everybody else's bows.
I'm enjoying the build-along, and thanks for sending the snow and ice over this way....
I have a question regarding your string grooves. Why 3/4 at the top and 1/4 on the bottom? It seems like it would cause some vibration or handshock to not be more symmetrical in tip weight?
It obviously works for you, I was just curious.
The longer top nock allows the use of a tip stringer. It also keeps you from over running the tip if you use the push-pull method of string. I've smacked myself in the cheek a couple times with a bow tip :)
:notworthy: Excellent.......
Hi! Remember me?
Freezer is full. Sausage is made. Holidays are all but over. I stored most of the hunting gear and cleaned up the shop. It's almost bowmaking season.
This buildalong will resume this weekend. I brought forth from the sawdust and off-season projects this bow in the making.
It shall be our first victim of the season. I have one more family gathering to celebrate this evening but tomorrow is virtually free.
The good news is that I have 2 more blanks lined up under the bench. The bad news is that I renewed my love for trapping so there is a bit of competition. I may only get to those 3 this season. But I'll take you along for the ride.
Stay tuned.
Sounds great, John :thumbsup:
:campfire:
looking forward to seeing the bow come to completion.
So I started by getting reacquainted with this piece. It is some pretty dense wood and has nice straight grain. There are a few gotchas but they are well positioned in the layout. So I strung it up with a tillering string that is just barely tight.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09278.jpg)
I have a bit of an alignment issue that I will have to deal with when I cut the final nocks and shape the handle.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09277.jpg)
Here it is pulled to 20" with nothing yet done to it.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09279.jpg)
The inner third is bending nice but I think I need to work from midlimb out on both limbs.
Before I do anything, I want to weigh the bow at 20". My goal for this bow is 45# at 28". I weigh the bow with a bathroom scale and a stick marked with draw length.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09281.jpg)
It came in just over 40#.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09284.jpg)
So my priorities are to get those outer limbs bending and to get some weight off.
I will start with the rasp and 20 or so strokes from midlimb out.
Here are couple pics that might help out the folks just starting.
At this point in tillering, it helps to keep the bow braced as you work it but that means the string gets in the way of your rasp or scraper. A short piece of wood to partially draw the bow helps.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09285.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09286.jpg)
Also, you need something to pad your vise. Here are some magnetic pads that work well. I got them at Lowe's.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09288.jpg)
I always found it helpful to support the tip end as you work the limb. A 4x4 cut to 5" and padded with leather helps here.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09287.jpg)
I work with the rasp because I have plenty of weight to remove. A scraper would take too long. If you are new, it is probably best to stick with the scraper.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09289.jpg)
Upper Limb.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09291.jpg)
Lower Limb. (http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09290.jpg)
Moving a bit more.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09292.jpg)
I want to get it bending a touch more before making any more decisions. If you look at the unbraced pic, you can see the almost R/D shape to the limbs. I have seen this shape start to unwind a bit at longer draws so I am pretty sure the remaining stiffness will even out without much more wood removal. So I weighed the bow again at 45# at 24". Here it is drawn to that.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09293.jpg)
That's not bad. I'm going to give it 10 or so rasps outer limb and then 20 or so full length.
I also got it to brace height.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09294.jpg)
I'd like to get the upper (left) limb bending a touch more and then I can take a bit more weight off.
I'm still using the rasp but with a gentle touch. Here it is after 10 strokes on the left outer limb and 10 full length.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09295.jpg)
Both limbs are stiff in the outer third so I'll give it 10 strokes there.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09296.jpg)
I repeated that and then pulled it to 26"
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09297.jpg)
That's OK. I'm going to move to the scraper for tillering the last 2".
Here it is after 10-15 scrapes on the upper limb.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09298.jpg)
I still want a bit more bend in the upper limb.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09299.jpg)
Maybe a bit more.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09300.jpg)
Let's see what she looks like in the hand.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09301.jpg)
Not too bad but lets scrape just a touch more on the outer half of the upper limb.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09302.jpg)
Maybe just a touch more.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09303.jpg)
That's pretty dang close for now. I'll shoot her some and see how that feels. Might be New Year's Day before I get back to it though.
This is really awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post all the photos, your thoughts as well as the tips. It's all much appreciated John... well done.
Looking good, John.
looks really nice
Very nice, John..
Thanks for posting John. Looks like a really good shooter. :thumbsup:
I needed to shape the handle and tips a bit before shooting her in.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09306.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09307.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09308.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09309.jpg)
I also flipped the tips with my new heatgun after my 15 year old one bit the dust. I got this one Wagner HT3500 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-HT3500-1500-Watt-Digital-Heat-Gun-0503040/203474822) . It's nice because it heats up to 1350 degrees and really does a quick job. I like it.
Here's the braced profile after shooting her 50 times and touching up the tiller.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09312.jpg)
Here she is on the tree.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09313.jpg)
And drawn to 27-1/2" by hand. I know I am short 1/2" because I marked the arrow I need longer arms :)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09316.jpg)
Here she is straight off the string.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09317.jpg)
Here's a little tip for using a bathroom scale. These are generally calibrated to the higher weights. It is always best to calibrate instruments to the range being measured. I do this by placing two 25 pound dumbells on the scale and then calibrating to 50#.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09311.jpg)
Final weight is 46# at 28".
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC09318.jpg)
I'm going to shoot her a little more today and then tweak the mass at the tips. I have already scraped her all out and made sure there were no major tool marks. Then I'll finalize everything before I sand her out and add the finish.
Looks great John. Tiller looks perfect and I love the profile with the flipped tips. Sweet looking bow.
Real nice John.
Very nice, John. Brings back memories. Jawge
as usual great stuff John!!! Always enjoyed your builds!
Really nice bow John, thanks for the build along! I think there's a selfbow build in my future!
Thanks for the build along!
Well after many hours of work, and final finish with wrap and strike plate, she blew on final shoot-in. I don't know what happened. Bummed :(
(http://yoursmiles.org/ssmile/sad/s0732.gif) (http://yoursmiles.org/s-sad.php)
sorry chap- it was looking so good, as always!
Sorry, John. I know how you feel..
Sad to hear it John. I'm doing the final tiller on a mulberry bow that has me worried about the same thing.
Hell man. Don't worry. It's just wood and time. May you have surplus of both :)
Good advice, John. I have more wood than time these days along with my usual shortage of patience. :)
One thing I have learned: no more staves with big @%#&ing humps on the back for me. :mad:
Thanks for the post. I learn a lots from it. I have a dogleg piece of maple that I was wondering how to straighten, and mark the center. Now I know!
Oh no! I just saw that she blew. Been there too. You handled it well. Jawge