ive often heard the thumb rule of drawlength x2 plus nonbendy handle length do determine a good length for your bow. for instance 29x2+8=68" ntn. maybe i got the thumbrule all wrong but whatever, my question is if youre going to have static recurves... kinda extreme ones.. that put the tips say 4 or 5" out in front of the bow, do you compensate by making the limbs longer or wider and if so do you have any guidelines to follow? just turning ideas around in my head.
to rephrase that a wee bit, does a recurve require more working limb per draw length than a straight standing longbow?
my thinking is that if youre recurves put the tips 4 inches in front of the handle, the working limb has to bend a couple inches more to hit the same draw length than if the limbs were straight right?
I think of it this way. The farther in front of the handle the tips are, the more energy the more energy the limbs must store.
The more energy the limbs of the bow must store, the more wood that must be used to store the energy.
You can make the limbs wider and/or longer to compensate. For a recurve I'd go with fairly short fairly wide limbs and thin light tips.
here's one I've been working on 64" ttt with about 3" static's, 1 3/8 @ fades 4" grip 1 1/2" fade length (http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00405_zpsnorxxqhv.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CAM00405_zpsnorxxqhv.jpg.html)
what i'm saying is you don't have to overbuild it
should of said 28" draw too
What wood is that? Osage?
Very nice bow
yeah it's osage, thank's, I've been reworking it from a flatbow I built about three years ago, wanted to drop the draw weight and figured what the hay, turn it into a static, I still have some fine tuning to the tiller but she's smoking fast