I'm no bowyer, but I'm wondering if a hickory selfbow could be cut to center at the shelf.
Handle would have to be deep and then maybe. I think your asking for a black eye and bloody nose. In my opinion it hurts the look of a selfy having that notch cut out. Just shoot a weaker spined arrow.
Cory
QuoteOriginally posted by heartlandbowyer:
Handle would have to be deep and then maybe. I think your asking for a black eye and bloody nose. In my opinion it hurts the look of a selfy having that notch cut out. Just shoot a weaker spined arrow.
Cory
I agree, I was just thinking "what if", and "is it worth it" either for accuracy or ease of shaft selection. In your opinion, if picking shafts for a self bow, how far below actual poundage should you look?
I don't think its worth it but that's just my opinion you have to decide what works for you.
Spine is gonna on draw length, point weight and shaft length. Myself if I had a 50 lb selfy I would probably start with a 50 lb spine POC full length I draw 29 and adjust point weight and or shaft length to make fly good. Maybe some guys that shoot self bows exclusively will chime in.
Cory
I have found my bows like about 7 pounds below the weight of the bow. So for a 50 pound bow, I use 40 to 45 spine and let them a little bit long.
My findings are similar to Roy's when I don't cut in a shelf.
I cut many of my selfbows to center or very near. If you do, it needs to be a fairly deep grip and sight window. Maybe 2" deep. Also make sure you have at least .75" width in the sight window. so no cutting to center if the riser is less than 1.5" wide.
When I do cut to center I like a glued on handle for two reasons. It doesn't require a 2" thich stave and it also allows you to alternate th grain orientation a bit to prevent splitting.
Also round out the corner where the shelf and sight window meet.