I have a Grizzly 1140 edge sander. I am wanting to make a pattern sander on the motor.. similar to the one Tenbrook, bjansen and Crookedstic did on theirs..I really like tenbrooks with the rub coller and will make a loose copy of his. Anybody else have pictures of theirs? What size aluminum plate did y'all use? 16" x 24"? or smaller?. I am thinking 7/16" thick 6061 aluminum should work
I'm trying to save to have this done to my Grizzly also.
I have a friend with a few machines, he is helping me with the conversion..I need to take the sander over to his shop later this week to begin the process. We will make some lexan templates of the motor bolt pattern and Rub coller.
Robert you have to turn the drum down flat. If you mic it you'll find it's barrel tapered.
We will turn the middle 4 inches flat on the drive roller and leave one inch on top and bottom tapered for belt tracking..I have an extra one in case we goof up, they are $40 from grizzly. What size did you make your plate? Some guys made theirs too big and they flexed too much..so they had to trim them down. I bought a new graphite pad and will replace it too.
If you do not have an edge sander, but have a shaper it is possible to do as I did without too much fuzz. The bearing that is below the drum can be taken apart and made into 6 different diameters. I had turned a solid aluminum drum with a diameter that with contact glued on abrasive paper is a hair larger than one of the rings, about 3 1/2" diameter. The shapers spindle diameter is 30 mm. The slowest rpm on this machine is 3000, I could wish for a bit slower, but contact cemented cloth backed abrasive paper stays in place. It is a bit time consuming to change paper as the drum has to be soaked in white spirit or like to clean off the old paper. But a 40 or 36 grit paper last a long time and this thing really eats wood. I had two drums made. Bue--.
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b506/timian46/b4b34cb0-9da1-4e7e-a7ed-4883e417d944_zps1543df9e.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/timian46/media/b4b34cb0-9da1-4e7e-a7ed-4883e417d944_zps1543df9e.jpg.html)
(http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b506/timian46/d3478758-612d-4fcc-8530-05da4dfe6313_zpse4208169.jpg) (http://s1289.photobucket.com/user/timian46/media/d3478758-612d-4fcc-8530-05da4dfe6313_zpse4208169.jpg.html)
Here is one ready to buy.
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5962-sanding-drum.aspx
bue
try a heat gun to loosen the paper--it changes color -then peel--then clean your drum with solvent---I was using contact cement/paper and found the heat a big help!
nice set up by the way!
Bue, Have you tried the 3m spray adhesive. I have used it and I could go a few paper changes in between cleanings. That's a nice set up you have.
I know a builder that has a set up much like the one in the link Bue posted. the paper is held on by a "pin" sliding into the slot after the papers ends are folded in there. It works very well. He just uses regular sheets of paper cut to size and wraps them on. I don't think you could get one machined for $108.
I am going with a 16" deep x 24" wide piece of aluminum.. my buddy with the lathe has a few projects and can't turn/flatten my drive roller till next week. I found some plate material today at a local welding shop..they too are busy and will cut me a piece later this week. I did find a piece of 1/4" for the rub coller at a scrap yard..$2.50.
Would this save some time and trouble.
http://www.luthiersfriend.com/robosander/robosander.html
7 lakes, I bought a 3" robo sander in 2009. I had some trouble with the rubber drum bulging and not making a perfect square riser. I ended up buying metal sleeves with tungsten carbide embeded in it, no sand paper.. This was an improvement and I could get a nice 90degree riser. The 6x80 belt sander with the pattern Sander above the motor should be even better..even though I am a hobby builder I want to improve my process. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/robosander-2.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/robosander-2.jpg.html)
Thanks Robert, I have a 6x89 belt and I've just gotten used to grinding by hand.
Even with jigs I still have to grind the fades paper thin by hand (Using the sanding sleeve on the drill press) I will post pictures of the new pattern sander when we finish it..it should be similar to tenbrooks
My friend had a day between projects(visable gas pump restore and 1940 chevy truck..) and worked on my sander! I supplied the parts and he did the labor.. Instead of washers between the motor and plate he machined spacers, each one was different..First he machined 4 inches of the drum flat leaving one inch tapered on each end for belt tracking..The rub coller can be flipped over if it gets wore out, I think its 7071? aluminum it is harder than 6061 aluminum. I broke the sander down into 3 pieces for easier transportation. I am cleaning out and moving my 12'x24' portable shop building..how did I get some much stuff?? I found some riser blocks I forgot I had.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/patternsander2_zps418c082c.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/patternsander2_zps418c082c.jpg.html) (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/patternsander1_zps311a3e00.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/patternsander1_zps311a3e00.jpg.html)
after the pics were taken all edges were rounded off, top of plate was cleaned and sanded smooth..I will get better pics after final assembly in new shop location.
That ought to work really well. I think you will like that setup.
robert
Instead of washers between the motor and plate he machined spacers, each one was different..
----this step was due to the motor configuration?
First he machined 4 inches of the drum flat leaving one inch tapered on each end for belt tracking..
---is your plan to build your jigs tall enough to put the stock up on the flat section of the wheel?
--is the rub collar steel?
nice rig by the way!!good luck with it!!
I've got the same unit and it needs the same upgrade--there's nothing like a belt to remove stock!![but its gotta be square!!]
I took my friend pictures of Tenbrooks, crooked stics and Brads sanders..all were similar. My friend had the time and wanted to make solid spacers instead of washer stacks. I think they were made from 3/4" round stock and ranged from 0.287 and 0.305 thick, The plate is square with the drum and I will check it every time I use it.
The rub collar is made from a hard aluminum alloy. The jigs will have to be 1 3/4" thick..
thanks rob--good luck with it!
If you have an edge sander (vertical belt sander) can't you just use a belt that is maybe 3/4" to 1" narrow so that it exposes the bottom of the spindle ? Not perfect, but unless you use it all the time, it should work fine.
CHuckC
Chuck, on the Grizzly edge sanders the drive drums are barrel shaped and there is no flat surfaces. I assume all other edge sanders have a barrel shaped drive drum too. The friction and heat from a spinning drum would be rough on the jigs. The jigs I have been using with my robo sander are plywood..I will be using corian, lexan, aluminum plate or something like that for the bottom of my new jigs, plywood alone may not be hard enough. There is a cabinet shop near my house and I need to see what they have in the scrap pile.
My jigs have plexi-glass against the rub collar that is setup on a lock collar bearing on the motor shaft. My plate is bolted directly to the motor bearing plate with some shim stock to square it up. The solid rub plate might be the cheaper way to go.
^ for Mark
(http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/patternsander7-14_zpsf6cff025.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/patternsander7-14_zpsf6cff025.jpg.html)