Put a new blade on a week or so ago...cut a dozen or so lams from maple and boo. Last night I brought home some walnut and wenge. I did two cuts on the walnut (36 inches long and by the end of the second cut the blade was cutting much slower..like a LOT slower). This blade has never touched glass.
Question, does a weak band saw dull a blade faster than a more powerful saw? I have a 10" , 1/3 hp craftsman. It seems to do just fine when I first put a blade on. But the blades don't seem to last long at all. I'm afraid to even try cutting the riser out of the wenge at this point.
Thanks
The smaller the saw the less overall blade length thus less teeth.
So each tooth has to,do more work.
I don't know if the speed would matter on blade life but it would certainly slow down easier with that size motor.
Might take a new blade to just get through your riser.
What brand blade?
I'd be inclined to think that the blade was not the best quality. I've had blades last literally for years, and I use my saw a lot.
You should also check the blade tension. If it's not set right, it could slip a little and act like a dull blade.
Dave.
I have never had a blade last for years. What brand you using? I do know they are not created equal.
For an all around versatile blade get timber wolf brand blades. They do hold there temper and stay sharp but none stay sharp forever. Listen to your saw it will tell you if you are pushing to hard, even when it gets into a bind. Any heat will dull a blade fast. Take your time minimize your kerf ridges by tuning the saw.
My blade with postage 'cause no dealers in my area cost me close to A $50 ea;, so i really look after them. They are bimetal and last well, but some of our timbers, like black wattle have a high silica content and chew up blades like crazy.Ouch!.
I was using a no name brand. I just ordered a couple of timber wolf blades...I'll report back in a few weeks. Thanks for all the input.
i just ordered me a 3 pack of timberwolfs too.
I always used to use blades made up by the sharpening service that I went to. I don't know who they were made by, but they were good. The last few I bought, from a different place, were not as good.
Recently, I bought a new Grizzly and I ordered some Timber Wolf blades. I haven't tried them yet, but I hear nothing but good things about them.
Dave.
QuoteOriginally posted by wood carver 2:
I always used to use blades made up by the sharpening service that I went to. I don't know who they were made by, but they were good. The last few I bought, from a different place, were not as good.
Recently, I bought a new Grizzly and I ordered some Timber Wolf blades. I haven't tried them yet, but I hear nothing but good things about them.
Dave.
wood craver if you have a blade sharping service then all you have to do is have them order the type of blade you want. May take longer but they normally try to provide for their clients. I always enjoy watching them make my own blades.
4 tpi hook or skipp timberwolfs-will last a long time unless you cut fiberglass.....
Took some advice from Big Jim a while back and got a Lenox Trimaster carbide bandsaw blade from Bandsaw Blades Direct. Expensive blade no doubt but I'm cutting wood, glass, and phenolic with it. Sure beats buying and continually changing cheaper blades.