It's on the edge of a farm that butts up to a park, and it is BIG. It appears to have fallen over but is suspended about 2' above the ground by the crown of the tree and the roots. My thought is it may have escaped the bugs being off the ground. I looked today where a limb tore off and it's gorgeous yellow brown wood inside. Grain is straight on the trunk. Conservatively it is at least 24" diameter and the trunk is straight and quite long, 12-15'. My wife and I have access to the farm and walk there with our baby frequently. I noticed the tree this fall and today we went for a walk. Of course I'm mentally making notes of every single osage we see while strolling....and there this beast is. Just gonna go to waste next to a concrete path in the woods of a public park. I have no idea how one could gain permission to remove a fallen tree from the city, from public land, and this is a monster log if I could trim the trunk out and split it. Basically I'm not going to sleep well with that tree sitting there, asking to be immortalized into bows! Next time I'm up there I'll measure and take a picture. Should I look under the bark for critters? What do I do....???!!!!
go to the town and find out if it's on the public land or private. You can pull field cards showing the property lines and all public records of who owns what land (at least you can here in Ma). Then I would call or better yet go in and see and talk to a selectman, the director of public works or the director of the parks assoc. I know if I explained I wanted the wood for projects so it doesn't go to waste I would get permission and maybe help in harvesting. Of course if it's actually on the private land then you're all set and can skip the above.
If the tree is on city land they'll probably have a work crew cut it up and haul it off... Hurry, man!
If you tell them what your going to do with it will help too.
A true 24" tree is a monster to handle. Personally, unless I was desperate for wood, I wouldn't tackle it. Unless you have heavy equipment, you won't be able to move it, even cut down to 6' lengths. That being said, if it is a great tree, it could be worth the effort. Take some pics and we'll know more. Bugs won't eat too deep into osage and that big of a tree will have little damage. And osage hardly rots.
I'd be more worried about the fact that the tree fell and the size. A fallen tree will have hidden stresses that are released when cut and generally dangerously. Trees that size are unruly to work on like John said. I think I'd look for suitable limbs to harvest.
The land bordering this path is private and I could easily ask permission so I'd need to determine where the public starts. Also the size and stress on the log scares me. I should have taken pictures! Next trip I will. This monster ain't going nowhere. It's off the concrete path so I highly doubt it is going to be cut. All this in perspective there's many dead straight 7-10" trees around there. If it's off the ground maybe it's "standing dead" and I should check it for limbs to use. The torn off limb revealed wood which looked pretty seasoned...so this tree could have been laying over a while now. The size of the job is significant and I'm short on labor and time for sure. At the very least I can visit the tree and look....
What part of Texas are you in, Highpoint? If you're anywhere near New Braunfels I'd be willing to pitch in some labor and equipment in ex change for a couple of staves. That's if everything turns up good for you. Lots of bodarks in my area but they're almost all on city land. 'nuff to make a man cry.
Being off the ground won't protect it from bugs.
Dallas. Thanks Eric! I've contacted the landowner I know with the adjoining farm to ask him who with the city I should talk with, etc. I have manpower now plus hauling equipment and serious saws, etc.
I cut a nice osage I found pushed over on city property, when I told the city manager what I wanted it for he gave me permission to haul it off.
Sure wish I had a tractor back in the heyday of my osage cutting.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagedragginglog_zps4e9b5d97.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagedragginglog_zps4e9b5d97.jpg.html)
It will be a lot of work to get that tree into staves but it will totally be worth it. I tackled a 24" diameter tree in 2011. I got 109 staves out of it. It had fallen over a creek bed and had been there for several years. Osage trees are heavy and the roots have a hard time holding them up. At least that is what I see on our property.
I would bet the wood in your tree is still good. Get permission and get it home.
Here is the tree that I cut.
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Hey Clint, I see the stave I made the 56" sinew backed osage recurve from. Very nice wood it that big boy.
Pat that wood was high quality stuff. It has made some very nice bows and won two BOM's so far. Its killed a few critters to.
I sent one of the other holey staves to Keenan for winning the stave count contest.
And i see the one ya gave me at the classic and made last years trade bow with....its now in oregon....and the monster tree story continues on!!!! :clapper: :goldtooth:
Stay tuned. Scrub and Eric your posts on found trees are my inspiration for this. Just gotta do it right. Any tips on sawing a leaned over (fallen) tree? Where to start first? I'll be researching.
I cut the base first, very carefully and slowly to see which way the trunk would move when it was cut loose. I looped off the free standing limbs next that weren't pushed against the back ground trees. Every cut on the trunk was cut a little see what happens, cut a little more and so forth until the trunk section was cut loose. The tree I cut had been pushed into the brush with a bull dozer and was really loaded with tension.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagetree_zpsd4d6f0b6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagetree_zpsd4d6f0b6.jpg.html)
I almost goofed up big time! I cut a limb out of the top to relieve the pressure and didn't see a dead limb behind the one I cut. Cutting the front limb released the back limb which hit me squarely in the mouth with enough force to knock me back about 5 feet. First thing I did was run my tongue over my front teeth to see if they were still there, they were. After letting the stars I was seeing fade away, and spitting out blood for a while, I went back to cutting the tree, much more carefully this time.
At one point I knew the top was going to spring out when I cut it loose so I put my bucket under it to support it. It sprang out but my tractor was positioned to stop it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagesprungontractor_zpsc8f70cf1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/osage%20cutting/bridgeosagesprungontractor_zpsc8f70cf1.jpg.html)
Very tricky cutting loaded trees, I won't cut one out of a jumbled brush pile. If I can't pull it out with a cable it stays where it is at.
Ok. Pretty sure this one is clear of others. Stay tuned.
i fall a fair amount of trees here- and the trees here on the coast are consistently bigger, but not as 'knarley' and spring loaded as the trees in your neck of the woods.
putting a tree on the ground is one thing.you gotta make sure you dont set up a barber chair, watch out for dead limbs above you- many fallers have been killed by dead limbs, make sure it goes the way you want it too etc etc.
but bucking up a tree on the ground , thats the real deal. eric summed it up very well!!
real hard to learn this by correspondance, but here are just a few pointers.
look thrice - cut once.
look where limbs are touching other limbs- thats a potential source for tension wood. make a few cuts into the compression wood- just almost into the neutral plane( just like tillering a bow)but not deep enough to get the bar pinched- about an inch apart- 1/2 dozen cuts or so- along both sides of the tension point- that will help relieve the tension- and distribute it better- help stop things blowing up.
then standing somewhere safe- start to cut into the tension wood slowly.
i always like to cut all the extra limbs off a bit above the tension point- so that if stuff does start flying about- there is a little less to hit you.
clear all the easy free limbs first- get everything cleaned up before you tackle the tough ones- clear all the debris away.
and when you are cutting the tough ones-( dont laugh!!) always set up an unobstructed escape route- things start to go bad you can run/stumble backwards out of harms way- without getting tripped up, and the log rolling on you.
i always carry two saws, or at the very least a spare bar and chain, if you get a bar pinched( and it happens to everybody) you can at least cut yourself out- or at least change the powerhead to a new bar.
a few fallers wedges are a good thing too- and the back of an axe to pound them in- if needed
listen to what Eric says- if you are going to be cutting loaded wood- go slow, and clear everything out of the way .
wear buckers pants, i actually prefer the chaps- believe me- first hand experience with this.
make sure your saw is very sharp- nothing more dangerous than a blunt saw
always try and keep the saw below head level.
and always look at the saw, when you are cutting, and make sure you are not in the flight path if the saw kicks back!!!- always be set up, so that if the saw does kick back- you can still hold onto it, and your natural body position will guide the saw past and away from you.
but also look around you- dont only watch the cut- look whats happening to the rest of the tree, and other limbs- they will start to move and tell you if somethings gonna happen.
always....always know where the tip of your saw is!!!- that is what will cause the kickback.- keep it in the air- not in the wood- and watch it doesnt touch anything else, a rock- another limb etc etc.
as you get better you can start doing plunge cuts etc
i have been thinking for a while now to put a small tutorial/help video together, just helping people with a few falling and bucking pointers. as so many of us are out there cutting down bow wood.
just be careful and go slow- if you get in a pickle- stop take a breather , and study it real hard- take your time-and it will be ok- get in a rush- thats bad news.
Thanks! We have a lot of cutting going on at my in laws place where they live in the country near Houston. They take saws and safety seriously. I've had pretty good instruction but safety is a never ending process. I have a Husky 181SE with a 20" new Oregon bar and new chain. That saw had a felling bar on it that was huge and it was coated with sap when I got it from Oregon. It's a capable saw. I have my wedges and splitting maul. I'll take a look at Baileys tonight for the pants, etc. I'd love to see the guide if you compile it.
sounds like you are well on the way down the right path.
it'll be good.
show us the stash when you get it home, after seeing the pic of scrub busters, - man that looks like a ton of work- but very rewarding i am sure!!
take care
wayne
Tree is on private property! LOG is MINE. We measured today. 26 feet long from the base to the first branches. 66 inches around. So I'm guessing 33++ inch diameter log or larger as I was not able to get the circumference near the base. I took it at the first spot I could slip the tape under.
Lots of limbs up top and lots of drama it looks like but job one is the trunk. Opposite side of trunk has some scraggly limbs. Do I cut those off flush? At the base there's some odd snakiness and deviations in the bark. It's a VERY long tree and way more than enough. The good thing is I now know it is safe and can coordinate with the farm manager to work on it when I have time.
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/alexeinspruch/FBFEE9FB-CDDD-42AB-BCFC-7BA1061F6DE1_zpsdzbeysyi.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/alexeinspruch/media/FBFEE9FB-CDDD-42AB-BCFC-7BA1061F6DE1_zpsdzbeysyi.jpg.html)
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(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/alexeinspruch/EABD8974-F38A-4C68-9F74-BC822647F534_zps6ylgruys.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/alexeinspruch/media/EABD8974-F38A-4C68-9F74-BC822647F534_zps6ylgruys.jpg.html)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/alexeinspruch/43BD3E9B-AC9E-4199-87AF-CB9A1D601166_zpsgtinnkk5.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/alexeinspruch/media/43BD3E9B-AC9E-4199-87AF-CB9A1D601166_zpsgtinnkk5.jpg.html)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/alexeinspruch/C888655C-B5FC-48E8-89D1-43B0DE31D994_zpse0paqj58.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/alexeinspruch/media/C888655C-B5FC-48E8-89D1-43B0DE31D994_zpse0paqj58.jpg.html)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g69/alexeinspruch/C044D1FC-7030-4E49-85D4-FD0FA5DF8DF9_zpsdptlst8u.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/alexeinspruch/media/C044D1FC-7030-4E49-85D4-FD0FA5DF8DF9_zpsdptlst8u.jpg.html)
Congratulations. Use enough saw...
I found another one which was already cut and off to the side of the trail probably 9' long and 10" across just needs splitting.
Looks good. Its down at a nice level to work on. You might have a tough time splitting around that area at the base. Keep posting some pictures as you cut it up.
just looking at the pics, doesnt look to tough to get the limbs bucked off- looks like its lying ok.
man that is a lot of bow wood !!!
That rooty looking bottom is weird.....
For some reason it doesn't seem like osage trees have enough roots to hold their weight. How long has that one been down? It will start having second growth on it if you leave it.
Not sure.
An attack must be planned!
I wish mine was on nice flat ground like yours. Looks like you might be able to get a tractor or truck right up to it.
When you did your belly splits ( saw pics on PA forum) how do you split across the rings? The vertical line splits....how do those go?
I took a sharpie and drew out how I hoped it would split. I started with the bottom wedge of the stave. On the middle section I used two hatchets to start a wide split. I would alternate wedges from side to side as I worked the split to the other end. After that I split the middle section and the part with the bark still on it into stave width pieces. I used the wedges to make those splits. I'm not sure if that answers your question or not.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC14296.jpg)
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Your tree will be a piece of cake, very little tension. I would make the first cut at the first limb and then work toward the roots.
One thing that will save you a lot of work, sacrifice a grain or two of the heart wood and split off your bark and sapwood like you would doing a belly split, saves hours of draw knife work.
I would definitely split off the outer parts of that gnarly base, not worth the time trying to salvage every ring of heart wood on that beast.
Get busy and buck that tree. Can't wait to see how many staves you get out of it. By the size of it I would say there is more than enough wood in there to keep you busy for a long time. I would not spend too much time try to get every possible stave out of it. You will spend a lot of time and probably end up burning the marginal stuff. Just go for the good stuff.
Agreed on splitting off the sap/bark. Why didn't I think of that? Seems way simpler. And at the end of the day conserving energy and time really is unfortunately more important in my case and the cost of doing business will be the percentage lost to the technique. There's plenty more wood then I could ever use. Seal the ends and the backs?
QuoteOriginally posted by Eric Krewson:
Your tree will be a piece of cake, very little tension. I would make the first cut at the first limb and then work toward the roots.
One thing that will save you a lot of work, sacrifice a grain or two of the heart wood and split off your bark and sapwood like you would doing a belly split, saves hours of draw knife work.
I would definitely split off the outer parts of that gnarly base, not worth the time trying to salvage every ring of heart wood on that beast.
Hijacking my own thread here... Hey Eric will you look at my mulberry stave thread a few places down and give me some of your opinions...? How do want to devote any time to them if they look like they'll not work out for a first project.
I seal the backs and ends with multiple coats of polyurethane. Shellac, glue, paint, etc. will also work. Look for dented cans at your local hardware store for a discount. I just got a gallon of shellac for $20
Gonna do that.
I use shellac exclusively for sealing ends and backs. I have found it to be the best sealer for a number of reasons.
I also use shellac. In a spray can, it's easier than brushing and faster.
With a tree that big you would spend a fortune on spray cans.
I hate the overspray on my hands and watch, and up my nose!
Eric nailed it on starting at the first limbs. You'll definitely maximize yield.
You will have some bug damage but they generally stop after a inch or two of the heartwood. But some bugs seem to go right through it. I see bug holes in places. You might want to cut a section that is in the area that won't make it for bow wood (like past the limbs) and then explore how much damage they have done. Find a bug hole and saw an inch or two in and see what they have done.
You can thin store bought shellac by half and still seal the wood. Use denatured alcohol. Good tip on searching for mis-tints (often called "Oops"es) at the hardware store. I got a $60 gallon of polyurethane for $7.50 doing that one time.
Good find. Take pics of the process.
John
p.s. 66" circ. is 21" dia. That's a huge tree! I would never cut one down that big but I sure would try to salvage one. Save the firewood too.
Cool! I'm in contact with the proper individual to rescue it. Shouldn't be long now. What do you think about that gnarly base?
Haven't found a tree that size. Tie a bandana over my face. And I don't where a watch. LOL!
You're right it isn't cheap. But it is quick and easy.
Cut your first log where the base turns into a normal trunk without all the gnarly stuff.
On the tree in my pictures I had the same type of base but good straight wood above the stump. After I got all my straight logs loaded I went back and cut the gnarly part off the stump.
I made sure I could cut a billet length section of the gnarly base or about 42". I later split the best parts of this base into billets, trashed the unusable stuff.