Hi guys..
Quick question..
On a trilam..when you add horn tips, do you grind the taper through the belly lam?
With my bbo I left the belly 3/16" or so thick under the horn.
My tri lam belly lam will only have about 5/32" thickness at the tips at glue up.
The total thickness of all 3 lams will be 5/16"-11/32" at the tips.
Just curious how you guys would deal with it....does it really matter?
Thanks
I'd just be sure there were good mating surfaces. You can just flatten the back to match the overlay and glue them. I like to use rubber bands to clamp tip overlays after gluing. I get good, even pressure and a good glue line.
Pick the angle you want/need to suit the bow's profile and your desire and grind away... I always grind through all layers of a tri-lam.
I then prep all gluing surfaces by gouging/roughing them up with a toothing plane iron, ran parallel with the limb's length... horn, same way. Smooth On.... spring clamps...lamp with a towel thrown over it for heat. Done.
Cool man!
Thank you.
Really just wasn't sure if It was smart to go through all layers and not have a "backer" left on the belly.
Sounds like it'll be fine.
...now if my wood would show up...lol
Yeah, if you do everything else right, you wont have a problem. I've never had one come loose, not even a little bit. Since it is ground at an angle, it will still be pulling down on the belly lam.... all of them actually. I'd post pics, but don't know if I can on my phone here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Rose_Lioness/Rose.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Wild%20Thing/WildThing13.jpg)
Oh cool!
Thanks Jeff.
Boy you really leave quite a bit hanging out there.
I woulda been afraid to do that...happy to know I can!
Do notice the grooves are lined up above the belly wood though..makes sense to me.
Man I'm excited to get started with this one!
Thanks again. :thumbsup:
Last time on my bbo I did like this...
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/Zradix/bbo1/tip.jpg)
Knowing you can have a little overhang opens up some possibilities.... :thumbsup:
However you want them to look...
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/atrilam2.png) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/atrilam2.png.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/26.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/26.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/pearl5.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/pearl5.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_7258.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/IMG_7258.jpg.html)
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowjunkie:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Rose_Lioness/Rose.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Wild%20Thing/WildThing13.jpg)
I don't mean to hijack but how about some more pics of that bow! Looks like alot of reflex. Veyr cool.
Ben, trust me here. Bowjunkie makes sissy pants bows:) LOL
But they are perfect, flawless, and beautiful shooting bows.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Rose_Lioness/Rosename.jpg)
Ben, the top bow with recurved outer limbs is a bamboo backed yew I made in '04. Her name is Rose :^)... not a tri-lam, but rather, a solid yew slat that was kerfed the last 12" or so of the limbs, and then a 12" long yew lam was inserted into the kerf, which allows it to be quite flexible during glue-up and afterwards, really 'maintains' the recurves... less prone to 'pull out' with use over time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Rose_Lioness/Rose2.jpg)
She is 64" ntn and 65# @ 28". Trapezoidal crossection with a fully radiused belly... the boo and yew makes her feather light in the hand and does she spit an arrow... whew.
Sorry, I don't have a full draw picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v312/Jeff_Durnell/Rose_Lioness/Rosestrung_zps4f1c41d5.jpg)