Hello guys
I need your help and feedback
I have built a couple of Recurves and One piece longbows!
Trying to build/design a TD Longbow 62" using a 16" Riser with 12° limbpad angle!
I have 2 alternative so far:
Am I on the right track ?
Please let me know which design you like best?
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/kurva2_zps7f1503f7.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/kurva2_zps7f1503f7.jpg.html)
If the dots on the lines are the bow tips or string notches I would go with nr. 1. Depends of course on wedge lenght , taper rate and so, but on average nr. 1 should give a faster, but still sweet shooting bow, with a fatter draw force curve. Bue--.
Yeah I`d take 1 too!
I would go with No 2 but drop the angle to 10*
Thanks guys!
Yepp, Dots on the lines is string grove for a 64" NTN.
Should I change the curve on some of the limbs?
I try to understand what Im looking for in the limb!
Any recomendation for taper and wedge lenght for limbs?
Reminds me a bit of my 62-64" (1-pc) LB, 10° limbpadangel 17"... so I`d use either short wedges and a .004 taper or half the taper and very long wedges like p-lams.
QuoteOriginally posted by swedisciple:
Should I change the curve on some of the limbs?
I try to understand what Im looking for in the limb!
Any recomendation for taper and wedge lenght for limbs?
I would go with nr. 1. and leave it the way it is. I'm sure it will build a very fine bow. If I wanted to build a short d/r bow ( 60" or less ) I would go with nr. 2, but i would move the part where the limb starts to bend upwards closer to the riser.
__________
Andy
No. 1 looks good --except I would take the deepest part of the deflex to mid limb before going up with your reflex.
It really depends on what profile you are looking for at brace, and the draw length you are going for. Either design will work great with the right lams. What sort of specs are you aiming for?
Thanks
Aimong for
62-64" NTN
40-45# @ 28"
Really like when limbs are straight or a bit reflexed in top when bow is braced!
Number too will give you very little early draw weight...without that you will have a lethargic bow. Number one is slightly better, but depending on how much taper you have in width and thickness, it may also do the same.
BigJim
Number too will give you very little early draw weight...without that you will have a larthargic bow. Number one is slightly better, but depending on how much taper you have in width and thickness, it may also do the same.
BigJim
Thanks for all feedback!
Some new curves, have I understand it ? :)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/kurva4_zps71d76526.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/kurva4_zps71d76526.jpg.html)
Not a bowyer, but I like the old #2 because it doesn't look as hingy at end of wedge.
But move the nocks at least an inch to target side of riser. Like Jim said, it will help performance and also quiet a bow,it did mine anyway when I went from 14* pads to 12* with same limb.
Im starting to loosing it :)
Im trying to get a mix from all feedback, to mutch for my little brain!
Maybe I should stay with recurves?
Or does anybody has a nice pattern to sale?
Kenny M has some proven once piece longbows and I remember him saying he has a new pattern that he would like some feedback on... Maybe hit him up with a message or something.
This is still giving me headache :)
Anybody here that can sell me a pattern for a 62" or 64" TD longbow?
The bingams projects t/d longbow is a proven performer being built and sold by dozens of bowyers. The blueprints only cost about $10. Can be built in lengths of 58-68"
I can email you a file in Adobe Illustrator with my profile if you like...
@beachbowhunter
That would be great!