Do stains, dyes,splices, and inlays Affect the bonding? Also with stains ,and dyes will they bleed or spot when smooth on is applied and or when pressed in the form?
Do inlays and or splices shorten the life of the bow?
In the limbs of a glass bow
Thanks for any info
Not sure..
Yes. Some oily stains can leave the lams very waxy feeling which can be just cause for bond concern. This is one reason I prefer aniline dyes.
Splices, if done correctly, needn't be a problem.
Some stains and dyes can bleed into light-colored lettering, or the finish a little bit... glue? not so much... but it depends on what you used and how. It helps to wipe or brush any residue from the surface with a cloth and/or stiff brush. Don't just wipe stain or dye on and then letter and spray... give it a good rubdown with some clean cloths to at least get the 'loose' residue off of the surface. Then give your lettering plenty of time to dry.
Thanks... I I was just wondering if I applied an alcohol-based die to the say curly maple Than glue the glass on am I asking for trouble both in appearance and in bonding strength using smooth on
And also on a splice under glass on the limb do I ushe a skive joint or just bought them up and do I have to angle left to right to keep strength
You are ok with the Alcohol based stains. I brush them down well before gluing. I also like to put them in the oven for a bit to make sure they are dried back out.
A skive joint for laminations in the center of the bow works fine under glass.
Yep, no oil based stain, no bonding prob if dries back out nicely, and skive it!!
Check out the 2nd pic down...
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001165;p=2
Thanks Kenny...what about in the limb its self? I have seen pics of some with an arrow running ttt and different woods splices aside from the handle
I like an angle of 60* or so on lams, straight across I wouldn't do. I've seen 45* tho that work fine.
The skive joint at center has the riser to back it up.
Soy, I have used alcohol based aniline dyes on curly maple and it looks really sweet. The last one I did, I mixed up some rose-red color, only I mixed it weak.... I didn't want it red, just wanted to highlight the curl with some rose coloring... kind of a 'blush'. It went really well with the cocobolo riser in that one piece recurve.
I gave the bow to the guy who gave me the curly maple board... 1x12" with the tightest and most consistant curl.
That's great thanks guys :notworthy:
Now in a situation where I might run wood from tip to handle in the center and different wood on the outsides would I be able to just butt them together?
( in the arrow scenario?)
Edge to edge lengthwise, yes. But preglue the arrow together and in the lam. I did one of those awhile back.
Made a blank for cutting all veneers from. Used a 3/4" pc of A/C char awood and put an ash arrow in with hackberry fletch and bloodwood broadhead in.
I cut most of the slot for the shaft with the tablesaw and finished the very ends with a scroll saw when I cut the selfnock and the broadhead in.
Pretty cool but a lot of work...
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/SANY0036-2.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/kennym/media/SANY0036-2.jpg.html)
WOW that is cool!!! :clapper: