should I take off more wood on the sides of limbs that the string is following or other side.Could really use the help!!!
The string will drift towards the weak side, so take wood off the other side. Check to make sure the edges of the limbs are the same thickness. Another thing that could cause this is the string grooves are not cut in the same depth. Print this picture out and save it:) It says recurve, but relays to all stick bows.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/limbalignment.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/limbalignment.jpg.html)
+1 with Roy's picture- make sure your nocks are rounded over too.
Is the string naturally off center or did you cause it to be so by uneven wood removal? How much is it off? Jawge
Check the evenness of the limb thickness from side to side like George suggested. Uneven wood removal is a common problem and will cause this problem.
I have a layout system that keeps the bow limbs very even side to side but still get a little string drift occasionally. With everything perfectly even, I suspect wood density changes through the limb causes the drift.
I bought a contour gage from Lowe's to check the symmetry of my limbs, works really well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/contour_gage.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/contour_gage.jpg.html)
I have found that uneven wood side to side in the fades and handle will drift the string more than you would suspect. I use my gage to help me get everything perfect.
I have had little luck moving the string with strong side wood removal on most of my bows with bamboo backed bows being the exception.
When all else fails, out comes my heat gun, it works every time.
Yep, when light to moderate wood removal doesn't correct it, before I go too far and screw something up... out comes the heat gun.
Sometimes the internal stresses of the wood don't want to allow it to stay in alignment as wood is removed or flexed and no amount of removal from the edge can compensate.
Great idea, Eric.
It is a slightly snaky bow but the string was running true until I short drew and shot about 5 arrows . Now I did what you guys suggested and got string back to middle of handle at brace heigth but as soon as I draw it 15" it go's back were it was.
Time to heat the handle, make a slight bend at the arrow pass, let it cool and take a few shots. If your string goes back, repeat until you tame the errant alignment.
Moving the handle a little will move the tips a lot. Sometimes I may heat and tweak the tips for a minor correction.
Do you mean twist the handle or should I put straight pressure toward the string ?
Straight side ways pressure.
I'll ask again. LOL. How much is it off? Jawge
Man, I'm lost without pictures! :readit:
George it ends up being a 1/2" outside the handle and then looks like the handle is twisted when I hold the bow by it's string. As far as pictures I don't know how to post them if that is the right way to say lit.
That is strange. A friend made a yew bow that kept doing that even after repeated heat corrections. Pics would be nice. Jawge
A contour gauge is a good helper, especially when making round bellied Yew bows, I have used them many years. Spend a little cash and get a good one. Bue--.