With all of the discussion as of late on the construction of hill style bows I can't resist the urge to jump in with all this information readily available ...so I picked up a piece of lvl and ordered supplies to make a form , And hope to get some parts ordered from kennym this week wish me luck...
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be watching this with interest Thad!
Thanks Bob ! I think I'm going to do like you said and do the plywood as the lvl is a bit thick I will save that for a r/d form....ordered parts from Kenny today....... :readit:
I'm liking this, at least 4 people are currently build a HH style bow. This is what it is about, sharing knowledge and finding your way along.
Going for a flat form?
Still need to build a form for mine but there are deer to be chased and I'm waiting for materials to arrive.
Lol I guess if everyone was jumping off a bridge :goldtooth:
If the glass bow you make is 1/8 as good as the 'snake'bow you made then it will be a brilliant bow Thad. If you have access to a router table then you could size the lvl to the required width and save buying ply.I feel the LVL will be more stable as well, but the ply still works well particularly if you add a bit of angle iron to the 'feet' of the form to help keep it strait.
May I ask a question on the pneumatic bow press here?
I wonder if you guys use 1,5 or 2" hoses and if thats the flat widthness or the inner diameter?
I have a guy who would turn me the endings and one who is a firefighter...
Which airpumps and valves you use- hand operated and automotive valves?
Back to topic- Hills are really great bows, forgiving and able to throw really heavy arrows at good speed; just a lot of fun to shoot!
Mine was 2 inch diameter.
The air valve is just a automotive with threads.
Hand air pump.
mine is 1 1/2'' dia when expanded and i only use a foot pump. very easy to inflate. My end plugs came from Binghams originally. Ye ha for the HH style bows too MoeM !
As far as build a long's go this one has a few extra steps, I got my materials from Kennym today :thumbsup: Plus I got some skins from matt Wirwicki ...good day!!! But in order to cut my form out I have to run power to the garage( recently moved have to rebuild the shop) so the first step in my form building is digging a 24 foot by 2 foot deep trench in Rocky sandy soil a couple times due to caveins...good times lol
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I have a question for you all I build a hot box a while back for drying staves I have the lights on the bottom of the box will that be an issue should I move them to the top?
TRAITOR!!!!!! :knothead: :wavey: you should take all that effinglass stuff and bury it in that trench :biglaugh: :laughing:
QuoteOriginally posted by soy:
I have a question for you all I build a hot box a while back for drying staves I have the lights on the bottom of the box will that be an issue should I move them to the top?
Should not be an issue at all.
QuoteOriginally posted by soy:
I have a question for you all I build a hot box a while back for drying staves I have the lights on the bottom of the box will that be an issue should I move them to the top?
Mine are on the top but can't see why it would make a difference. My next bake off I'm going to put one of those small battery powered RV refrigerator fans on one end of the box and blow it straight down across the light bulbs. Probablu being overly anal about it but it seems like that would keep the temp more even across the box?
monterey, I added a 110v muffin fan to my box. I have the lamps on top. I built a small partition wall at one end and hole sawed a hole in it to mount the fan. The wall tries to direct air from bottom and blow across the bulbs and thermostat. I don't know if it's better because i'm a newbie, but once up to temp it stayed rock steady pulsing the the lights on and off every minute or so. The fan runs constantly.
Bob Maddux
quote:
Originally posted by Black Mockingbird:
TRAITOR!!!!!! :smileystooges: :help:
Thanks guys...I did not know if the glue would drip on the bulbs and have a bad outcome :dunno:
Is their any pro's or con's to an I beam riser in a hill style???
Aint done one myself but sure will be at some stage. Don't think any reason not to be a good idea especially strength wise.
Thanks Bob...got the lvl milled down to 1/32 over 1.5" its amazing how much of a pile 3/8" makes in dust lol
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Glad to see you progressing Thad!Looking forward to the shots to come!
OK I have got it cut to length,and I have center marked one question I have is when I shape in for the riser does it make a difference if I put one lam or two+ glass over the riser in relation to how high I need to cut the recess or does it not matter
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That pile of dust looks like all your other bows.. :jumper: :laughing:
I always make a riser pattern and put it on the line where it goes and just make sure I have 1.25" clearance to top form with no lams or glass in the mix. Always works for me.....
quote:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
That pile of dust looks like all your other bows.. :thumbsup:
Well I got it cut into two pieces, as I stack them together to carry them from the table saw I noticed they wanted to rotate I checked it with a straight edge and it is warped a bit...1/16 " end to center :banghead: will this cause an issue is It acceptable or should I go find a different deal to make the form from :dunno:
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May or may not help if you get a piece of angle iron and drill and screw it to the base, to help pull it strait.
+2 on the angle iron(just the bottom)- otherwise you will build that error into your bow blank...
Yep on the angle!
Why just on the bottom dose the top not need to match??? I suppose the air hose will take care of that....hope the riser recession is OK still need to sand a little to get it symmetrical will get some iron for the bottom thanks guys
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Yea the hose will take care of it- you could do both and eliminate the warp on both- just makes the form heavier
Is 1"×1/4" steel adequate for the binding straps on the sides of the form?
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should be Thad, just depends on how resistant the bow is in the beam, but I would certainly think it would be enough.As Trux says the upper form can be done as well but weight factor really comes into it.Don't want to have an engine hoist over the oven just to get the form out :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
QuoteOriginally posted by bigbob2:
should be Thad, just depends on how resistant the bow is in the beam, but I would certainly think it would be enough.As Trux says the upper form can be done as well but weight factor really comes into it.Don't want to have an engine hoist over the oven just to get the form out :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
:laughing: and I had one lined up
What a pain in the rear end this is trying to be...got some 1 1/2" angle 1/8" drilled it mounted it one way, and no dice...flipped it around and mounted it to the other side and it is close enough to glue down the mica strip....barely :banghead: I hope that the bow build will go smoother than the form build :pray:
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I had one with a bit of a warp in it and before I mounted angle iron I placed it on couple saw trestles and put a small anvil on it at center line I then applied heat from heat gun and left it overnight before screwing angle on. Sorry I forgot to mention this before.
finally I got it in line... one more piece of steel and 3 more bolts now I'm satisfied with it enough to glue on the Formica strip :goldtooth: I may need an engine hoist yet to get In the heat box :laughing:
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Just for future information, if you ever see an old bed rail laying around, grab it. They're harder and stiffer than standard, more malleable iron, and will do more to straighten your form with less physical weight. A local matress store may allow you to have a used set if their workers haul away the old ones after delivering new.
And if you slightly bevel the bottom edge of the form, you can flip the angle around so it lays along the bottom of the form instead of sticking out to the side.
Thanks for the heads up will be great to know for my rd form :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
OK I think I'm in trouble...1 should smooth on pour mine did not so do you measure by weight? 2 I was putting my mica strip on and my air pump failed so I used plan b and used 4 squeeze clamps am I destined for failure or will I be OK
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Well my fears are well-founded as I have 3 humps just high enough to slip a dollar through on the low side... am I able to true up with the patterning bit or sanding them down on the Formica or do I need to strip it down and buy a new mica strip and start over???
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Bowjunky must read my mind , 'cause that's where I get my angle iron from,-- old bed frames from a Opportunity store as we call them [ sort of Charity shop selling odds and sods]. Re the formica strip Thad, my option is not one you'll like --Plan B. redoing the strip.It is essential that you have a first class lower form as even a small ripple or 'dent' will show itself in your glass if not attended to.Sorry.
Thanks for the confirmation Bob :banghead:
since I had to wait for parts now I figured I might as well get to work on the riser got it glued up and now I wait :knothead: I got one half of it from a piece of an old dead standing walnut tree that I have had cut for a while and the other half came from a gunstock blank
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Looking good my friend! That walnut looks great. Your workshop is only half as cluttered as mine. :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
thanks Bob!I'm still moving into the shop moving stuff across them back and forth now I have to take it off the walls out the door so I can insulate and drywall and move it all back in :banghead:
:thumbsup:
Soy if you have access to a router I would suggest finding a straight edge and use it as your guide. If you let the bearing ride against the straight edge you will be left with a clean smooth surface. Thats how many are able to get a smooth surface on a R/D form. I usually will glue a scrap piece of fiberglass I get from kenny m on the top of the form and then just press hard with a roller or dowel and have no issues with them... Maybe you could try that!
Justin
Thanks! I am trying a full sheet of sand paper on a 2×4 and run it down if that don't work I have another strip comming I have about got it where I need it...
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About got the riser ready
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is smooth on still good to use if it freezes (I know I would have to thaw it out first) :dunno:
I can't find anything on that, but I think its good, there is nothing in it to freeze and I've read where guys have used it after freezing several times.....
I can't find anything on that, but I think its good, there is nothing in it to freeze and I've read where guys have used it after freezing several times.....
Here ya go, quick search...
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=004663#000004
thanks Kenny :notworthy:
well I finally got some time to get back on the project almost got the form ready to get it operational...
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great to see you're still plugging away at it Thad. Remember measure twice, cut once! :goldtooth:
that is as sound advice as I've ever heard , thanks bob :archer2:
made a jig for making joints on the Lambs
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important fact that I overlooked is that this is not the proper machine for doing such work unless you plan on shooting them across the room thank goodness I used a test piece :laughing:
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joints on the lambs? you got some sheep there mate? :goldtooth: :goldtooth: :goldtooth: :biglaugh: I've bounced a few lams across my workshop too at times!
:laughing: or lams don't judge :laughing:
I've bounced a few lams across my workshop too at times!
Bob, shame on you.............. :jumper:
:archer:
I have heard it is a lot of sheep down there. Bue--. :bigsmyl:
Yupper Bue, and Bob calls them mate.. LMAO :bigsmyl: :wavey: :notworthy: :laughing:
You guys will have Bob looking ...well...sheepish! :laughing: :laughing:
I use the jig like that on a disc Thad, then you don't throw yer lam.....
Looks like I need to find a disc sander.... :banghead:
QuoteOriginally posted by Roy from Pa:
Yupper Bue, and Bob calls them mate.. LMAO :bigsmyl: :wavey: :notworthy: :laughing:
Wow :laughing:
guess I just broke into Flog Bob week :knothead: :knothead: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :jumper: all I can say to that is BBBaaaahhhh.
:laughing:
Got the form done !!!
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The riser and lams ready
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And the dry run looks good...time to butter up and stick it together
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It was too long and tall for the dry box so a 24 hr. Wait to see what it is going to throw at me next
:bigsmyl:
hey Thad looking good!!!Dry run looked great too!
Have to touch up the outer third on the r side but I am pretty stoked that I have one finally out of the form I will get more pictures up when I get it all finished up :readit:
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Soy she is looking good.
Liking what I'm seeing Thad.
lookin' real good there soy.
Thanks guys hope to be ready for finish by the weekend :pray:
Nice, Soy...
Nice!!!
if nothing else she's a shooter and I guess at the end of the day that's what you want to see :archer2:
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Now that's a group! :archer:
Great job - more pics!
OK one more about got the shape on the grip put some tru oil on to check color...ran out of lp aka liquid gold so the finish will have to wait :banghead:
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great to see you got a shooter out of all your effort! Good stuff!
Thanks Bob...you have been a big influence in this build I hope it makes the grade :pray:
only to glad to throw in the little I've learnt, Thad. Haven't forgotten the wood bit either.Just a question of time and spare money, but it will happen!
No worries mate
Got r done! I will get a string made and put on a strike plate,get brace& fd shot soon ...this is #1 so please let me know how I can improve and anything that I may need to address...thanks!
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Its terrible, I think you need some more practice. But I'm a generous guy and will take this one off you hands so you don't have to look at it. Lol
Holy crap first one! It makes me scared to try, very nice.
If my first glass bow had looked as good as that I would have been stoked. give yourself a big pat on the back ol' son!
Excellent work. :) Bue--.
That's plum pretty! I especially like the tips! Looks like you've been shaping them for years! In reading your posts, the toughest part about this build was making the form. The next several bows will be easy! Good work!
Nice job Soy!
Yup Bodork, once you've built a good form a lot of the work is behind you.
thanks guys !I should clarify is my first fiberglass bkw I have built a couple self bows , but I am happy with the results from this first attempt at Fg :goldtooth: I have a couple of things to iron out on the next few but I'm not complaining
Yeah he made one of the greatest 'snake' bows on Osage one would ever see and its in my hot little hands courtesy of trade swap 2013. looks like your continuing your great work into the glass! As I said great, stuff!
Thad, that is tremendous for a first glass bow.
Attention to detail is great!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
We'll done, Soy! Beautiful bow! :clapper:
Epic job man.
Fantastic finish job.
Nothing to improve from the pics- excellent work man!
Thanks again for the kind words! Have yet to get a string spun in this heat wave the fingers don't move as well as I like in the under heated shop :dunno:
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Well here are the last of the pics!!!
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Looks like you've done a first class job, full draw looks great!
1
Thanks Bob!
H'aint forgot either Thad. will happen!