I started building bows a year ago, I read everything on this site and thanks to that I found a new hobby!
Now its my time to post a build along!
This bow is built as cheap as possible, form, hotbox and most of the bow is built from scrap and left overs!
Im born and raised in Sweden so maybe my English isnt the best :)
Lets start...
Got some used but straight plywood from a construction (Yes, for free), glued and screwed together to get the right dimension 1 3/4" wide!
Marked a straight line in the center of the plywood and traced the pattern made of MDF on both side of the center line!
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/3Form_zpsd93b9b65.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/3Form_zpsd93b9b65.jpg.html)
Then I using my jigsaw, sawing outside the line:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/4Bsticksaringg_zps969a0890.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/4Bsticksaringg_zps969a0890.jpg.html)
Then I screw the MDF pattern
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/4Aformmall_zps9ca0a937.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/4Aformmall_zps9ca0a937.jpg.html)
Make sure it doesnt move and after that its time for my router that has a bearing that copy the MDF pattern straight and nice:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/4CFraumls_zps4e285bd3.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/4CFraumls_zps4e285bd3.jpg.html)
Here you see better:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/4CFraumlseftermall_zps8aeae140.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/4CFraumlseftermall_zps8aeae140.jpg.html)
Now the form is almost done, just some washers to keep the bow on the form without sliding and some harware for the press (you will see it when I do to dry run) I also glue a thin aluminum stripe on top of the bottom form.
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/4Dform_zps4c267c3f.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/4Dform_zps4c267c3f.jpg.html)
next update I will show my cheap hot box when I glue my riser out of leftovers :)
... Hi... can't wait to see this... good luck! :)
Greetings from Croatia!
My hot box is build of styrofoam and duct tape!
Cost is approx 20$ and I can take it to pieces and real easy to store it :)
Takes 15minutes to assemble it, heat is generated from 5 x 100w lightbulbs!
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/1Hotbox_zpsc7587ba8.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/1Hotbox_zpsc7587ba8.jpg.html)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/2Hotbox_zps7b9bd7ea.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/2Hotbox_zps7b9bd7ea.jpg.html)
Riser for this bow is 22" x 1.3/4" Bubinga and Zebrano white and black accent stripes is thin veneers of stained maple
All wood is from my scrap box
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/image_zpsb3a6fbd7.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/image_zpsb3a6fbd7.jpg.html)
Cant use to mutch clamps :)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/image_zpsd41e27a7.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/image_zpsd41e27a7.jpg.html)
Im using smooth on epoxy, so cooking it 4-6h @ 170ºF in my hot box
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/5AGlueriser_zps7002dfd5.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/5AGlueriser_zps7002dfd5.jpg.html)
Lookin good. :thumbsup:
Looks nice, won't the bulbs melt the Styrofoam being so close to them?
No melting or burn marks on the styrofoam!
Iam always in my shop when its on for the safety.
Melting point of expanded polystyrene is 240C or 464F .... I was suprised too ... thought it would be lower than that. Just looked it up.
Glass transition temp is 100C and softening point is 90C ... so it's actually a fairly fine line you walk using it for a hotbox ....
Looking good, cant wait to see the rest, if you do have a problem with the hot box, lining it with good old kitchen aluminum foil will redirect the heat back in and protect the walls.
Thats a good idea,
I have used same styrofoam for 5 bows and I keep the temp 75-80C without no problem!
Riser is cooked, will sand it and saw it later!
Pictures will come
Skall följa med här!
I've built the same kind of hot box. Lining it with aluminum foil is probably a great idea. Thanks for the tip carpin'mark!
You can also use the alu plaids from first aid kits as heat reflector!
Those router bits are awesome- mine is only 1/2*1/2" and the bearing is on top...
I like your profile can`t wait to see her strung!
Pretty cool stuff! Never would've thought of using styrofoam like that...
Opened the box, removed all clamps!
No slippin or sliding so its time for som dust :)
First I sanded away all the extra epoxy by hand with my favorite home made special tool :)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/specialtool_zps83df3cd9.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/specialtool_zps83df3cd9.jpg.html)
16"x2"x1" with 40grit paper, removes smooth-on boogers without any problem, and it doesnt dust as mutch as a belt sander!
But I always use a good respirator!
Now Its nice and square:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/5ARiserJPG_zps7d91a1cb.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/5ARiserJPG_zps7d91a1cb.jpg.html)
Then I draw my riser with a wery thin marker using a pattern cut from MDF, Then I saw outside the line with my bandsaw:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/5BRiserJPG_zps80516495.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/5BRiserJPG_zps80516495.jpg.html)
Now its time to sand to the line that I marked with the thin marker, Im using a drill and a real basic drill press!
But before sanding, make sure that the sanding drum is square against table:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/5AriserA_zpseb969b21.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/5AriserA_zpseb969b21.jpg.html)
Grinding down the fadouts to paperthin using my drillpress:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/5Briserfadeouts_zps54d24e7e.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/5Briserfadeouts_zps54d24e7e.jpg.html)
I measure fadeouts on the riser with vernier caliper, from paperthin and 1" in 1/16" and 2" 1/8" thick hope this picture explain:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/Fadeouts_zps205a1cb6.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/Fadeouts_zps205a1cb6.jpg.html)
Now its time to clean my shop before the glue up!
Jæklar hur det går, hej fadderullan ;) Looking good so far, waiting for more. Where do you buy a router bit like that with the bearing on top? Bue--.
Bue, Här går det undan :)
You got a PM!
Started to cut the glass and masked it with blue painters tape on the shiny side of the glass!
I also drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom / center of my riser, I also drilled and glued a 6mm dowel pin in center of the bottom form:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/dowelpinform_zpsdbe8dc44.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/dowelpinform_zpsdbe8dc44.jpg.html)
Put some painters plastic on my bench and form and suddenly my shop now looks inspired by Dexter
Lay up from Right to left on the pic (Bottom of the form and up) starting with:
0,050" Clear Glass (cut in half because of the dowel pin)
0,110" Taper 0,002" Red Elm (2pcs because of the dowel pin)
22" Riser
0,063" Paralell Red Elm (2pcs glued together with CA)
0,050" Clear Glass
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/layup_zpsbaa602d9.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/layup_zpsbaa602d9.jpg.html)
Before dry run and glue up I always testing my air hose for leakage with 5bar and a bucket of water for a couple of minutes!
I always do a dry run mostly to see if fadeouts are OK!
On top of the bow and between the airhose I use a 0,040" aluminum pressure strip
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/6dryrun_zpsefae2028.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/6dryrun_zpsefae2028.jpg.html)
I mix equal parts of smooth-on in paper cups and spread it with a filler spreader, we don't want any dry spots so a lot of expoxy on all sides! Wet to wet!
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/8smoothontools_zps8fd5a07f.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/8smoothontools_zps8fd5a07f.jpg.html)
It isn't that messy if your organized, I use plastic gloves at least 3pairs each glue up!
Couldn't take any pictures during the glue up, but here is a picture when everything is in place before cooking 6-8h @ 170F
As you see I use a lot of tape to keep everything in place, it get really slippery when its glued!
When all laminates and pressure strip is in place and taped I screw the top of the form in place and fill the airhose with :
10-15PSI (0,5-1bar) then I wait approx. 2minutes
30PSI (2bar) then I wait approx. 2minutes
45PSI (3bar) then I wait approx. 2minutes
65PSI (4,5bar) if everything is looking good I take a piece of scrap wood and scrape of the epoxy that has leaked out on the sides before I put it in my hot box for 6-8h @ 170F
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/IMG_6945_zps035b81e9.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/IMG_6945_zps035b81e9.jpg.html)
Now its just waiting.....
I open the lid on the box a couple of times to check pressure and temperature!
After 6h @ 170F I pull the plug and let it cool slowly over night!
Clamped the form into my vice and let the air out of the hose before I screw the top of the form !
No sliding what I can see yet :)
No leakage in the plastic so the bow came of the form real easy!
Clamped it on the bench and started to sand of all boogers with my 16" sanding block:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/9gluedinform_zpsdae8cde4.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/9gluedinform_zpsdae8cde4.jpg.html)
Now its time for one of the best moments during the build! take away the tape and see the wood shine
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/10avmaskning_zpsfea4c324.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/10avmaskning_zpsfea4c324.jpg.html)
Looking Good!!!
next step it to find center of the bow, first I use my special penn that is schimmed into center using a nut, washer all glued together with CA glue :)
You also need a 100% straight bench.
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/11center_zps97123730.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/11center_zps97123730.jpg.html)
After that I double check with some fast flite string !
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/12centerstring_zps4de0b3d2.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/12centerstring_zps4de0b3d2.jpg.html)
When centerline is marked its time to mark out the limb using a pattern
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/13limbpattern_zps6b7f2be4.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/13limbpattern_zps6b7f2be4.jpg.html)
I use a thicker tape and cut after my pattern so when its done I just have to sand to the tape line
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/14limbpattern_zps93fd7c86.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/14limbpattern_zps93fd7c86.jpg.html)
Great build along and a really good looking bow. Thanks for taking us along, I always like the build alongs.
QuoteOriginally posted by jess stuart:
Great build along and a really good looking bow. Thanks for taking us along, I always like the build alongs.
X2
Can't wait to see it finished. Looks like it is going to be sweet.
After I saw close to the tape line I sanded with my sanding block almost touching the tape!
Then I filed string nocks using a 6mm chainsaw file!
Its time to brace the bow and see the braced profile
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/15stringed_zps789132f6.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/15stringed_zps789132f6.jpg.html)
Great moment!
No twists so its time to check and find the strong limb!
I check tiller at brace height and at 18"
Strong limb is 1/8" and will be bottom limb, I shoot 3 under so later I will sand it to zero tiller (both limbs with same tiller)
I dig down in my left over box and found som zebra/maple/brown micarta pieces that I pre tapered bofore I glue it on as limb tips
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/16pretaperlimbtips_zpsddfd476a.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/16pretaperlimbtips_zpsddfd476a.jpg.html)
Im using smooth on and clamps
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/17limbtipglue_zps670d6c12.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/17limbtipglue_zps670d6c12.jpg.html)
The I put it under a 100W lightbulb to speed up the process!
Clamps removed and its time for some fun stuff!
Im using chainsaw file, regular file and sand paper roughed in the nocks
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/21sandinglimbtips_zps51dc784e.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/21sandinglimbtips_zps51dc784e.jpg.html)
Will do the the final sanding later!
I dig further down the left over box (I save almost every piece left over wood) and finding some nice Zebrano/Bubinga pieces for handle overlay
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/19overlays_zps9cc4e22a.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/19overlays_zps9cc4e22a.jpg.html)
Hmmm, doesnt look good right now!
Maybe you can see the final result already?
I can so im optimistic :)
I use alot of packing tape and rubber stripes.
Tape to prevent wood from sliding and rubber outside to get the clamps to stay in place.
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/20overlaystejp_zps516cd3eb.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/20overlaystejp_zps516cd3eb.jpg.html)
Its time to let the smooth on cure over night!
Looking good :thumbsup: That's a neat idea for drawing the centerline. Making a note of that for my next one.
Removed all clamps and tape, evertyhing where it supposed to be and it looks OK so far
I marked out the shelf and handle with a marker and then I used my hacksaw and chisel to remove the site window
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/21risercut_zps25557a02.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/21risercut_zps25557a02.jpg.html)
After that I glued some overlays made of black stained maple, maple and teak veeners, im using same procedure with tape, ruberstrip with aluminum (to spread the pressure) over it then alot of clamps!
Its time for some handle shaping, first I use my rasp and then over to my file!
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/image_zps35d022e4.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/image_zps35d022e4.jpg.html)
After 4h of work it start to look OK
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/222hsanding_zpsbe573958.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/222hsanding_zpsbe573958.jpg.html)
Will do some more work with files, then Its time for final sanding later tonight 180,240 and 400 grit paper.
:clapper:
Beautiful riser work, and I think I will have to try that tape trick on limbs next time, thanks!
After sanding the entire bow with 400grit paper I sprayed it with a clear cote spray can, I sprayed it with 4 layers and let it dry and sanded with 400 grit between all layers,here is the final result:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/23done_zpsf2539f51.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/23done_zpsf2539f51.jpg.html)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/25done_zpsf8035795.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/25done_zpsf8035795.jpg.html)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/26done_zps2c4cf44b.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/26done_zps2c4cf44b.jpg.html)
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/24done_zpsd296a502.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/24done_zpsd296a502.jpg.html)
And of course the full draw pic:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af277/swedisciple/fulldraw_zps138ea8a2.jpg) (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/swedisciple/media/fulldraw_zps138ea8a2.jpg.html)
Final specs are:
60" NTN
38#@28"
I hope you enjoyed this build along and thanks for watching!
:clapper: :clapper: well done! beautiful bow! I learned something from you!
Very nice, mycket bra. Bue--. :)
Great looking bow.....
thanks for sharing!
><>>
Glenn
Amazing
Incredible wood combo realy nicely done Sir, congrats!
Outstanding!
Thanks alot!!!
Excellent work, love the woods too.
Excellent work, love the woods too.
Great build along and beautiful bow! Thanks for doing it.
Great Build-a-long and a sweet looking end result too. Great job. Thanks for sharing it.
Nice job!! :thumbsup:
Kul att se fler svenskar har! And a great job on that bow!
Icon 1 posted September 23, 2013 05:25 AM Profile for swedisciple Email swedisciple Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post Reply With Quote
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After 4h of work it start to look OK
WHAT? It doesn't look okay, it looks GREAT!!
Tack, vi Svenskar är överallt :)
Thanks alot guys!
Im working on another riser design right now, maybe another build along! Havent decided yet!
Fantastic looking bow. Love the wood combo and the look of the riser.
__________
Andy
Beautiful bow! thanks for taking time to do the build along...always learning
Excellent :thumbsup:
Beautiful bow, bro! I love all the accents! I keep all my scraps also. Never know when they'll come in handy. :clapper:
:clapper: Outstanding work! :clapper:
Thanks Guys!!!