This one started out as a hickory/cherry/cherry tri-lam, but the cherry started to chrysal. I kept the cherry core lam, but made it thinner and finally came to my senses and used osage for the belly. It's 64 1/2" ntn and 50# at my 27" draw. Probably could have worked the fades a little more, but it's at the weight I want and I like the way it shoots. I've heard that these are easy bows to tiller, but they still give me fits. This is the 7th bow I've made and I'm going to shoot a few hundred arrows thru it before I seal it. Thanks much for all the tips and advice from this forum :)
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/Wooden%20bows/r-dbow_zpscda068cb.png)
Braced at 6 1/2"
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/Wooden%20bows/r-dbow1_zpsec2a8e41.png)
Sweet bow.
Very nice. Lovely profiles.
Nice bow. I like the strung profile.
:thumbsup:
Thanks guys!
Looks like a fast bow.
Very nice bow. I really liked the looks if it the first time around so I'm glad to hear you had success in reworking it.
did you run the osage up the riser fades or did you cut the riser and then glue it back on?
:thumbsup: Looks good!
Thanks again! I cut the riser off with my jig saw and glued it over the osage, Ben. I've shot it thru my chrono and am getting 150-155 fps with 500 grain cedar arrows. Really happy with that, but I'll bet that you guys who have tillered quite a few of these could squeeze more out of her. Just put a coat of finish on and will post some pictures when it's all done. :)
150-155fps is not bad at all for 10gpp and 27" draw.
When you start getting into squeezing out every FPS you gotta start thinking about things like limb width, tip width, mass etc. So just out of curiosity, what kinda limb width, tip, width and taper have you got on that?
Again, I think 155fps with 500gr is very nice from a wood bow, certainly the deer will agree.
I am happy with the arrow speed that I got from it, but certainly wouldn't have minded another 10fps more :) The limbs are 1 3/8" at the fades and I carried that width for 8 inches, then a straight taper to 7/16" tips. The hickory back and cherry core are both 1/8" tapered to 1/16", at least on paper. I don't have a thickness sander, so I did the best I could with my belt sander and calipers. The osage belly was 5/16" and after tillering was 1/4" at the fades and a hair more than 1/8" at the tips. I'd like to do another one with a bamboo back, tho the one BBO I've made also gave me fits when I tillered it. I guess because of the change in thickness at the nodes. I rely heavily on my gizmo and I've found that on a bow with a lot of R/D, you can use it as a general guide, but that's about it. If I do another one, I think I'll do a few more scrapes at the fades and a few less at the mid and outer limbs. And I can see where the experience of having done a few of these would be a big help. Having a good idea on the thickness you need for the lams to hit the weight you're shooting for would eliminate so much of the guesswork (and extra tillering). I'm still guessing at this stage. :dunno:
No full draw pic yet, hopefully tomorrow. I used Golden Brown Trans-tint dye in alcohol for the first time and was pretty happy with the results. It made the hickory nice and dark with just a few coats, which always seems tough to do with regular stain. This is the first one that I've sealed with Thunderbird and I'm sold on that also. Love that short drying time. I think it dropped a few pounds after shooting it in and finish sanding and I'm actually kinda glad about that. Unfortunately, like the rest of me, my shoulders aren't getting any younger.
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/trilam3_zps751ec802.png)
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo207/okdoak/trilam_zpsb892f5f6.png)