Scott was looking for a BBO blank to buy like Dryad used to sell. I don't know of anyone who does that anymore, though there may be someone out there that does! Anyway I contacted Scott via a PM and said I would build him a blank if he ordered the materials and had them shipped to me, then I would ship him the blank for him to tiller out. So he ordered a BBO kit from Pine Hollow Longbow and Mike shipped it to me. Part of the deal was, he ordered a second BBO kit for me. I also told Scott I would add a core lam of Elm, flip the tips, put on Buffalo Horn tip over lays and make him a Flemish string for it. He agreed. He asked me to start a build along and once he got the blank, he would continue on with the tillering part of the build along. So here we go:)
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The Osage slat I picked for Scott's Bow was an awesome, clean, rift sawn, thick ringed piece of wood.
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The riser section Mike sent was enough for two bows.
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I cut it in half width wise and cut it down to 12 inches long. I cut it so the riser will have edge grain showing on the belly side of the bow.
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You get that glued up for him he's going to have a sweet bow. :thumbsup:
So I flipped the tips yesterday. And I flipped them good, LOL. I added a 1/4" piece of wood under my normal pattern to give them a tad more reflex, just for chits and giggles:) I flipped the Osage belly first, then the core lam too. The clamped photo's are the Elm core lam, the un-clamped are the Osage, showing how much the tips are flipped. But the process is the same for both.
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Roy you da man. Lookin good so far!!
Glued her up today.
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Scott has a 30 inch draw, so he asked I make it longer than my normal 66" tip to tip. So I made this bow 69 inches tip to tip. Was a bit different in the form for me, but not much. I think it should end up with a tad more reflex, won't know till it's out of the form tomorrow. Video below.. Ya know what Scott, I really like it and just might keep her:) Thanks for the free Bow material:) LMAO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_d71E2szLYw
I'll glue on the riser tomorrow, and do the horn tip over lays at the same time. Then cut it out on Tuesday. Then I'll let ya know for sure if I'm gonna keep her by Tuesday night... :biglaugh:
Lookin good Roy :D
Mighty fine work there Roy. I made some jigs like yours and have made 2 bows with the tips flipped. A good heat gun is an awesome tool for wood. Started a 3rd tonight-hickory with a piece of phenolic in the riser. Never used unibond but mixed my first batch and looks good so far. Maybe I'll post some pics soon....
Nice job Roy!
And that is startin to look like a real bow makin shop, what wif the sawdust on the floor and the pile o boxes up there! :laughing:
Way to go Roy. That looks great so far. Can't wait to see the rest but where is the box full of silver cans of "bow glue"?
It's airtight, I guess. LOL!
i tried flipping tips like that, Roy. Mine looked like crab... Err, crap! :bigsmyl:
Now Roy don't make me drive all the way to PA and steal it from you lol
LOL D on the silver cans. There were a few involved already:) Red those tips are so easy to do.
Scott I moved:)
Roy
That looks awesome as heck.
Hey Roy how do you straighten out a piece of boo I'd it is a little curved from side to side.
I have a pattern of how my bow will be when done. I reduce the belly side of the boo to get it flat. Then clamp the boo down with the flat side facing up. I lay the pattern on it, get everything centered by forcing the boo to center within my pattern shape. I clamp it down and trace my pattern onto the boo. I cut out the boo along the traced lines of the pattern. Then I taper the boo thickness from 1/8th at center to 1/16th at tips. By this time the boo will be thin and flexible. Then I place the boo on my belly slat and run a tight string end to end down the center to line it all up straight, clamp it down, and I drill two holes in the handle grip area, and two holes on the sides of each tip. I then stick tooth picks into those holes at glue up and that keeps everything in line while I clamp it up.
It came out ok:)
LOL, how is that for some deflex / reflex?
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Riser and horn tip over lays glued on too..
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Dear Scott:
I think I'll just keep her... :laughing:
wow that has got some curves! Looks great!
I'm glad I could contribute to you new pile of cardboard in your shop.
That bow blank is coming along fine, Scott will be very happy with it!
Looking good Roy :thumbsup:
good looking so far. wish i had that kinda talent. nicely done and it looks like itll be a good shooter too :thumbsup:
It's okay, I guess.
Dear Roy:
See you in 6 hours :biglaugh:
Roy with that extra D/R it will take a bigger package. :eek: :eek:
Very nice Roy. What kind of glue do you use?
Scott, come and get her, she is done. Or pm me your address.
I used Unibond800. I have the medium color resin because that's all Three Rivers stocks. I really don't care for the color of the glue joint. I have found an online supply place that sells unibond800 in gallons and also has the darker resin, plus a tinting additive to adjust the color of the glue, for a hell of a lot less $$$$..
Saweet!!! Just in time for my birthday
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drooooooooooooling
Roy, how thick were the elm and osage pieces prior to glue up? Did you pretaper them?
Don't stop there....file some grooves n slap a string on it and bend her on down :saywhat:
Osage was 3/8th to 5/16th, Elm was 1/8th to 1/16th. The bending is Scotts job:)
Just a suggestion, making the elm so much thinner than the osage kind of negates some of the benefits of using it,(taking up core space with a lighter weight wood) and using 3/8" thick osage is still kind of hard to bend, so eliminates the benefits of the tri-lam's flexability. You wouldn't have had to heat bend that reflex in if your lams were closer to the same size. Tri-lams hold their shape really well.
Ok thanks, Jeff..
I would generally agree with Jeff. I don't think it's critical or anything and obviously it held plenty of R/D. I try to make my lams roughly of equal thickness on tri-lams just for ease of bending etc ...
Nice work Roy, you are a bow building machine these days! I see where Jeff and Ben are coming from as far as the weight and flexibility goes, but with osage being the superior wood, I'm siding with Roy. I'd rather have a little more than too little of that stuff. :dunno:
I had a brain fart on this one for some reason. Maybe because I made it 69 inches long and thinking being longer I needed more wood for more weight, but it has some sweet curves and plenty of wood for Scott to work down. I plan on directing Scott into doing a radius belly on her. That will make her sweet and give him the opportunity to reduce it down to his desired weight of 45 pounds.
Scott, are you taking notes, Son? :) I didn't work on it tonight, wife is leaving tomorrow for 4 days to visit her son, so I took her out for dinner and should stay out of the bow shop tonight. Ya all know how that goes:) LOL
Yeah, too many brain farts in the shop could be a catastrophe. Especially with the fumes wafting through PA... LOL! :dunno:
Taking lots of notes Roy. I definitely plan on doing a radius belly on her and I really like osage the more the merrier.
Jeff you know Roy isn't going to be doing any radical extreme shaping at glue up....we both know he's too stubborn to stop making the same bow over n over again :wavey:
Morning Son:)
Stubborn? Or... too comfortable? scared of the unknown? afraid to fail? Too much challenge? Old dog syndrome? Maybe we're just expecting too much :)
WACK... WACK... WACK... :deadhorse:
I see this is pick on the ole man day:)
:thumbsup:
I need one of those for my collection. amazing looking bow Bud
Lookin good Roy, hate I missed "pick on the old guy day" tho!! :D
It's on it's way, Scott. Ya should have it Monday..
:bigsmyl: :archer2:
REMEMBER, GO SLOW AND THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING.
Remember you can always take more wood off.
But once ya take wood off..
Ya can't ever put it back on:)
yeah listen to the ol guy and seriously go slow :) I went to fast for Roy and the silver cans started to pile up quicker than normal..LOL
After a busy day hunting I got home to find a package on the door step.
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Nice glue lines
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Looks like Roy gave me a good start. Going to get to work on my to do list tomorrow
facet limbs
grip
remove boo rind
string nocks
low brace height tiller
tiller
That looks great. I like the curves. That ol man sure can build em. Good luck Scott, just listen to Roy his taste in beer might suck but he's second to none on boo bows...lol
yeah Roy knows his chit..that looks like a awesome blank
Glad ya like it, Scott. Go slow dude.
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I rounded the belly and trapped the back today. How does it look? Did I take enough off the back?
Also I'm a little nervous about taking the rind off the back. I have cabinet scrapers to do it. Any tips? How do I know when I've taken enough off and avoid taking too much off.
Scraping with the scraper will produce small slivers and that is about how much you need. The color will change and be,sort of,obvious.
Main caution don't set the scraper down too hard so as to ding the fibers .
Back looks good. You took the boo to the glue line like a good Bowyer:) The belly side will need more wood removed to achieve the 40 pounds you want at 30 inches, I designed a lot of belly wood into that blank, so you could work "SLOWLY" into a bow:) Those pencil lines I scribed on the belly side of the Osage and down along the sides of the Osage, were just a starting guide for you. I am sure you will need to take the facets down more on the sides and in more towards the center of the belly, even more to get down to 40 pounds. Scribe more lines lower along the side and in more towards the center of the belly, use a compass, and keep them even. Look at them to make sure they are even, symmetrical so to speak, before you rasp again. Actually I would take the sides right down to the glue joint eventually, without rupturing the glue joint, just like you did the boo on the back! There is a lot of wood there, and that is what you need to approach this tillering process. You should end up with a sweet radiuses belly. Just be sure to sand after rasping to remove any deep rasp marks. When is doubt, STOP and ask questions, Grasshopper:)
The rind should be the very last thing you do. Get the bow tillered, then worry about it. But when you get to it, be very careful. Scrape it lightly, do not put the scraper straight down on it. Hold the scraper almost flat and start your motion towards you before setting the scraper down onto the rind, when you get to the end of your motion, gradually pull the scraper up off the rind. Get about 80% of it off and go with 320 sand paper, sanding lengthwise on the limb. There could be deeper longitude lines on the back of the boo where the rind is counter sunk, do not try to get all the rind off of those. Just let it go. Just barely round off the high part of the nodes.
You're learning too, old grasshopper :)
Well Scott? Any progress?
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Hunting season has kept me pretty busy but I got some work done this weekend. What do you think? The limb on the bottom looks stiff to me.
Any hinges or stiff spots?
I don't like the area I marked, looks a little thin so ya better stay away from it and the limb above it is too stiff.
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Okay I'll be sure to stay away from that spot and take some wood off the area above it.
Any other thoughts on where to take off wood or where not to?
listen to Roy and go slow and you will have a shooter..looks like mid limbs need to bend more right Roy :)
At a brace like he shows, the mid limbs will be flat. They won't start to bend till further down the tree.
They won't start to bend? I think they're already bending aren't they? You mean they won't bend into an arc until later?
Reflexed bows will at some point, appear flat in the limb on their way to full draw. Depending on the amount and location of reflex, and how the bow is tillered, they may properly appear flat at brace.
I make it a point to stay away from the fades until I'm a few to several inches from full draw...because a hinge at the fade in any time of the process is THE worst area to hinge a bow....and when posting tiller checks or full draw photos try to take them straight on and at the same level as the bow is...its a lil hard to see when its on angle laying on the ground and your standing back away from it...
Oh n one more thing...make yourself a rope n pulley system....it'll be much easier for you to see the bend as it unfolds before your eyes and will be much easier to see any problems like flat spots and hinges,and limb timing....especially for reflex deflex bows etc...