I received my Osage bow Stave from John at Hedgerow Selfbows, Thank You John. I need any help I can receive. This is my First attempt to build a bow.
I will post progress pics and questions as I go along. John has been an awesome help but I don't want to pester him with all my questions.
First question. Which side of the stave should be the back of the bow and which is the belly? (I know, stupid question, but I want to be sure). John has already done work to the stave. John said the back of the bow (part that faces away from you when drawing the bow) has a ring chased. He says the belly shows the grain.
Can anyone tell from these pictures which is the back (chased side) or which is the belly (grain side)
The first two pics are of the same side:
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/F1BCB7EA-60F6-42CB-B9E4-942326AD241A-15465-000008B1A9524EBC_zps7b6f260a.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/0CBF1F4A-51E3-4895-AC71-66D8D8BE4830-15465-000008B1908E6209_zps9432d016.jpg)
This is a picture of the other side:
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/665FA30D-2908-4E80-9B74-182809C2D469-15465-000008B1A2D02469_zps9db0836c.jpg)
Any thoughts?
First two are the back.
For future knowledge, how can you tell?
You can see in the bottom picture (the belly) where the grain has what looks like waves or islands. That's where he cut thru the rings to take wood off tillering it for you. You won't see that on the back where he has it scraped down so it's inside one ring the whole length of the bow. Does that make sense? Good luck to you, go slow, and ask lots of questions as you go along. First bow you make is easily the most confusing and there are a lot of experienced hands on this forum. Sometimes I almost wish I was one of them :)
Good explanation, Takefive.
Jeremy, as you work on this bow, make sure you work only the belly side. You should remove no wood from the back as you tiller because if you do, you'll cut through the growth ring that is the bow's back. When that happens, there's a good chance it will break there.
To the experienced here, such things seem obvious, but I took it for granted once that a guy knew it, and when I returned to check on him, he had worked both the back and belly, and the stave was ruined... so I'm just throwing it out there... better safe than sorry.
Best of luck with your bow, and I look forward to following along with you.
Knock help?
Can anyone give me any advice or knowledge on how to cut in the knocks on each end?
Here's what I do. Measure 1/2" or so from the tip and mark that across the back with a pencil. Draw a 45 degree angle from that line to the belly. Using a circular file (chainsaw files are good) cut the nocks deep enough to completely hold the string. As you cut, compare each side to make sure they are in line with each other. Repeat for the other limb.
If you are using a bow string that goes over the tip, you will need to leave the top limb a little longer past the nock so measure 3/4" for that one.
Does it matter which is the top and bottom of a stave? How do I choose?
On that piece, not really. Some staves have a bend to one side and some folks like to leave the string on the left side for a right hand shooter, or vice versa for lefties as a sorta center shot attempt.
Thanks John, so do you think I should cut the top knock at 3/4 instead of 1/2?
Also, since the limb is thin, should I just make the knock deep enough to cover the string? I've read the standard is an 1/8 to a 1/4 deep. 1/4 seems to much
If you are using a tip stringer then yes. If you are push pulling to string or using a limb stringer then no.
I make my nocks just deep enough for the string.
Heck, my tips are less than half inch wide so 1/4" deep on each side would be a little difficult :)
Oh yeah, thickness (thick v. thin) refers to the measurement from back-to-belly.
Width (narrow v. wide) refers to the measurement from side-to-side.
When you say "thin", I think you mean narrow, correct.
Yes, sorry
No "sorry" needed.
Making a knock, do I put a groove into the back of the stave as well as the sides?
Here's some knock pics. On the bottom side, I marked the top at 1/2 from tip on each side, drew a 45 Deg line from the back to the belly.
On the top side, I marked the top at 3/4 from the tip on each side, drew a 45 deg line from the back to belly.
Once done, I drew lines from all the points to make sure all sides are uniform. I plan on using a tip bow stringer so the top notch is at 3/4 instead of 1/2.
Question is does this look correct so far?
Also, Do I make groves on all the lines? Across the front, the sides, and on the back?
Top, side view
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/CA970D5B-03D7-48A1-9519-D0EFD52DA0C5-16179-0000091FDBB139B5_zps676d8079.jpg)
Bottom, side view
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/68CBD386-4F26-4B8F-A464-28D0E5235369-16179-0000091FD051EFB0_zps1816bdc6.jpg)
No groove on the back.
On the first pic, is the back on the right? It should be.
So just the sides?
Anything on the belly?
Do I need to slightly round the edge of the groove towards the back side (side facing away from me when bending the bow)or just make the grooves on the sides and don't touch anything on the back side?
Tell ya what Jeremy, if you can hold off until tomorrow, I will put together a co-buildalong with a very similar bow and we can do this together.
HAHA, that would be cool. I know, don't know anything. More I just question everything......
So what's a co-buildalong? I assume you build a similar bow and post pics. I will follow along as you're doing it?
A co-buildalong would be great and much appreciated! Thank you John!!
Jeremy - You can't go wrong following John's advice. I'm going to follow along too, because I always pick up something good that I can use for making my next bow better from a build along. In the meantime, until you and John get started, have you checked out the search feature on the forum? Just type in whatever you're interested in learning about, e.g. tillering, nock file, etc. and you'll have lots of info and opinions to pour over.
Thanks, That's all I've been doing is researching but I think it's made me more afraid to mess up. John has given me an endless amount of info and I'm greatly appreciative of him. It will be fun to do a build along.
I just made up the term co-buildalong but I'll go along with your definition :) I've got a stave ready and the battery is charging on the camera. I might start tonight if I get some time.
Looking forward to it John. I'm hoping my three little ones will cooperate so I can keep up with you. Doubtful, three kids and my oldest will be turning three in Sept. but I will do the best I can.
You got too many kids then. You do know what causes that right? :)
Kidding of course. I have 3 also but mine are 17, 15, and 12. Enjoy every minute with them. They are much more important than bows or hunting or anything else in the world.
I made a video for cutting nocks and am trying to upload to youtube but it is going very slowly. I might have to resort to old fashioned images.
Haha, thanks bud! Ya, wife and I need to get cable or something...
Here's the nock cutting video.
Nock Cutting Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhVKBiZ6u5w&feature=share&list=UUd1zciLMYHIsFEKSqERkJAw)
nice video John, makes perfect sense! Thank You. On the belly side, should the two groves end up matching up with each other in the middle of the belly?
They should be close now but really close after tillering.
Uploading a video right now on tillering string use. Working on getting started with tillering.
I'm not exactly an advanced youtube user or videographer so I am learning as I go. Patience with me is appreciated. If you get ahead just ask questions and I'll try to answer with words :)
Yes Sir!!
Here's the Tillering String Video (http://youtu.be/JTdjooTxaSc)
Alright John, here is what I have for the knocks. If you see something that needs corrected please let me know.
Bottom of bow knocks, belly side w/o string, belly with string, back side with string:
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/F84B9615-7433-4935-8CD6-57CEB918F991-16802-00000982A83F8E8D_zps463b16da.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/8AAA04A9-DBF3-4E4B-BACC-6C810FD29566-16802-00000982AEC7201A_zpsf1d87506.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/1F1F5B69-FDD2-4B94-800E-211A97320E3E-16802-00000982B58770A8_zps57fe5250.jpg)
Top side Knock
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/97C74EC8-6102-4352-9C26-5F88FB9F5CB7-16802-000009828A412352_zpse5a4c255.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/7C0074A3-4E41-47A9-9CD5-165D86B24892-16802-0000098294037784_zpsa87efd09.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/2F5D187E-3BE1-4F1E-8FD2-1784E3554170-16802-000009829BDE4A70_zps3b35e721.jpg)
Beautiful job. Next step is to knock of the corners of the last 5" or so of the limb. Just round them slightly with your rasp. Then take a file and clean them up. That way when you string your bow you won't damage the string.
so round of the last 5" of the bow limbs themselves?
The 5" area in front and behind the knock.
Just a slight rounding of the corners?
I give up on youtube. Here's the first pic on the tree. (http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07412.jpg)
It's bending a lot at the near handle on both sides and hardly any past that. I'll give it 20 rasp stroke mostly midlimb on the right and from midlimb out on the left. I'll leave the last 6" alone on both sides until the end of tillering.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07413.jpg)
That's better but still needs the same. I pulled it a couple inches farther.
25 rasps midlimb on the right 15 midlimb on out on the left.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07414.jpg)
Getting better but the right limb is too strong. 20 on the right, pretty much full length but leaving the area just at the handle alone.
10 rasps midlimb left.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07415.jpg)
That's close enough to string it up.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07416.jpg)
Decent looking at a low brace.
Here it is drawn to about 20". Not too bad. I'm gonna switch to a scraper from here on out.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07417.jpg)
Alright, Pics of tiller string on. Looks down the middle to me......
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/60B9F97F-C42E-4B77-9CFB-80E47E09BB4D-16802-00000989C0ED7320_zps27675979.jpg)
Pics of tillering, string is pulled to 15". It was really stiff and I didn't know whether to pull farther.
Looks like the left side may be a little stiffer?
What should I do?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/FA79FB4F-C404-4C96-B6F9-2E31FBFA47CA-16802-00000989C7E9308E_zpsfaa169c9.jpg)
Leave the center alone for now. Left limb is stiffer. Take 20 rasps for the middle third on the left and 10 at midlimb on the right.
You should only use the pulley. Leaving it pulled for more than a few seconds really increases set.
Thanks John. Should I use a surform rasp?
Also, what are your definitions for the parts of the limbs? ex. midlimb, middle third, etc.
I used a Surform for several of my first bows. A Nicholson #50 is better but you gotta do what you gotta do :)
I like to think of limbs in thirds. Inner, middle, outer. Midlimb is just that, the middle of the limb. It's kinda fuzzy. Sorry.
OK. Took 20 rasps off the middle third on the left and 10 at midlimb on the right.
My tillering system isn't working for me. I didn't realize I couldn't hang the string, take pic, then let loose. Don't want it to set.
Results
What do you think?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/0EBA1494-40BF-46A8-9B5C-5FCCD0118E5E-17156-000009B90CE9EDD3_zps3a306c2c.jpg)
Do it again. Any idea what weight you are pulling?
I'm getting a couple little ones ready for bed. Once I get them to sleep I will take the bow scale to it, then tiller again, (same as last time, 15 and 10) then re-scale the weight again.
Either I'm getting weaker or the thing is super stiff. It's hard to pull. I think it was too hard for me to try to pulley it.
57 #. Before tillering again
im not going to offer much in the way of advice... just cause I'm an amateur and John's got ya covered. but looks to be going well so far. nothing ugly in the tiller. id say go slow and ask questions.... but you got that already. cant wait to see how it comes out. good luck. i know all about bowyering around the little ones' schedule. burn that midnight oil brother!
Ok, Took off 20 more on left 10 off the right. I used a Nicholson 50 rasp this time. I then put the string on and bent it 30 times before measuring and taking a pic.
Still pulling 57# on the scale after rasping. I don't notice much of a difference but.....
Prob. doesn't matter but I'm pulling it to the 17" measurement. Kinda using that as my guide for now.
What do you think John?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/4EAAD116-1031-43F1-9CB4-129AB2D02E33-17156-000009BFA5D3F76C_zps97826abd.jpg)
Looking good Jeremy. What part of KS are you in? And John I like the co build ideal.
There's a spot, just outside the handle on the right (in front of the white PVC pipe in the background) that is bending a little too much. Mark that "NO" on the belly and do not remove the writing until the rest of the bow catches up.
If it is that heavy at that draw then you need to take off weight now. Do 20 full length rasps on each limb and then exercise it by pulling 30 times to your draw weight. Leave the center alone for now. Once you get it to your draw weight at 20", you can brace it.
Thanks John, KellyG I live in Wichita. Kelly you guys getting a bunch of flooding in Riley?
Hey John, should I include the limb ends in the full length rasps or still not touch those?
Leave the last 6" of the limbs alone.
Before I do stuff. If it is at the desired draw weight at 20", am I correct that it is definitely heavier if I pulled it back to 28" (my draw length)?
So, I don't have to fear making it too light if it's at the draw weight I want (which is around 50#) at 20"?
Yes, Assume 3# of draw weight for each additional inch of draw length. So if it is 50# at 20" it will be close to 74# at 28". But you never want to draw it past your desired draw weight or draw length.
Remind me of your draw weight and length goals.
My desired draw weight is 50# at 28".
I just did prob. 4-5 passes of 20 with the rasp. I watched to try not to take anything off that area on the right that was bending more than the other.
When I first started rasping today it was measuring 67" at 20". After 4-5 passes on each side, it's down to 62-63# at 20".
I wanted to post a pic of what it looks like before continuing.
What do you think? I still see the bend, maybe worse now, on the right limb, to the right of the PVC.
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/18B3BA86-F97A-4E66-8EFF-7F3539FF172E-17589-000009F8C5D9B2FE_zpsca8b1cf3.jpg)
Don't draw it past 50# even if that is only 10" of draw length. You need to work it mostly at midlimb and get the weight off. Do 20 passes and check the tiller at 10" or so. Then check the weight. If it's not 50#, then you can pull it to whatever draw length makes 50#. Jusr repeat that until you are closer to 50# at 20", Post if you have any questions on tiller. I'm probably not gonna be online for the next several hours though. Good luck. You are doing great so far.
Gotcha, so only pull to 50#. Keep tillering, midlimb on both sides until I can get 20# at 20" draw. Then I can low brace it. What length string should I use to brace it? 4" short of length of bow??
Should I work midlimb on both sides? Or full limb still on the left side and just midlimb on the right?
Thanks John
Alright, been at it for a couple hours. Have to go visit the family so I thought I'd post were I'm at.
I'd like to say I feel like I've made progress but it doesn't.
I'm currently pulling 50# at 17". It's been about at this point for the last 30 min. of tillering. I have to say, I've been removing wood though.....
Don't know what's going on.
What do you all think??
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/8D23E9A0-E812-4F36-8C7E-E0630EC9B8BD-17722-00000A0769CE87CD_zps767813eb.jpg)
you are doing good, don't get in a hurry, it will sneak up on you. remember to exercise the bow after removing wood. pull it to whatever you are pulling to 30 or so times after scraping or rasping then take your picture. a couple dollars for a pulley and cord will make this alot easier on you. then you can stand back while you flex the bow and get a better view. also, once you brace it it will be a good time to start using a tillering gizmo, search the site if you don't know what it is. for that, you are going to want a peg on your tree to pull the string to. leave it on there for only as long as it takes to mark the belly with the gizmo. a couple of seconds.
when you brace it the first time, don't brace it to a full brace height, like a string 4" shorter would give you. you want the string to be just off the belly of the bow, an inch or two at first. what is the string you are using? is it a long flemish string with one loop? do you know what a timber hitch is?
answered my own question about the string by re-reading the rest of the thread.
Do both limbs look more equal now?
Yes. It is looking better. Keep at it. Patience is your most effective tool.
Another question. My tillering string stretches. I usually re-tighten everything after I rasp the limbs. Is that what I'm supposed to do or does it not matter?
It's a new string, it will stretch. It doesn't really matter a whole lot at this point. If you have a 25# dumbell or plate, you can hang it by the string over night to stretch it out some.
Thanks John. I got to say, this bow making stuff is fun. Kind of addictive and I'm just getting started. I think it will be a fun hobby.
John, how's your bow turning out?
I won't be able to get back on mine until the little ones are asleep.
Jeremy No major flooding just some high water. But if the rain keeps up it will get bad.
Well keep and eye out and we try to get together in January up this way for a bunny hunt with trad bows.
Kelly, that would be fun!
Alright, I am now pulling my desired draw weight at 20". 50# @ 20"
Here is the pic. Should I move on and what is the next step for me? Any noticeable issues I need to take care of?
I believe the next step is a short brace but I'm not sure how to do it. (As far as what the length of the string should be. I've heard four inches shorter than bow is close to final brace height so would it be 2" shorter than bow) Also, would that be 2" shorter than knock to knock or total length of bow??
What do you think John, and Gang?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/5C8AA292-25C2-471A-AD92-1F9638911F83-18125-00000A40CE304B93_zps2d3eccdb.jpg)
start with 2" shorter than nock to nock. You might need more since that string stretches a little more than a final string.
Right limb is a touch stiffer than left. There is a stiff spot on the left between the framing in the background and the 6" you are leaving stiff at the tip.
I'd still just work the middle third on out a bit. Leave the handle alone.
I want to post some pics because I'm afraid I'm going to mess up the bow...haha.
My target weight is 50# at 28". Last night I was pulling 50# at 20". I tried again today and was pulling the same (just to be sure I wasn't imagining things). I decided to put a low brace on it. I made the tiller string 2" shorter than the knock points. It was extremely stiff and difficult to string the bow! Once strung there was only about a one inch bend in the limbs, not very much at all....
I don't have a pic but the bow had a definite stiffness on the right side. I unstrung it and decided to shave more off. I've been shaving from both sides. On the right, where it was stiffer, the limb was noticeably thicker than the same area on the other limb. I took the rasp to that area in particular. I kept rasping the limbs and watching my pull weight.
I've stopped here. I've rasped a bunch off of both sides and have kept 50# at 20". I think the limbs are looking better. My thoughts are the limbs are still to thick and need taken down more. Here is what it looks like now pulling 50# at 20"
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/FA815267-BC41-4347-85D0-477C1613E423-18667-00000A815B28C874_zpsa125ed46.jpg)
Yes, you need to reduce the weight by removing wood evenly from both limbs. The left limb could use 10 or so extra rasps. Do 20 at a time after that until you get to 50# at 24" and then you might want to switch to a scraper. You are doing great.
Hey John, should I even worry about Bracing it at this point?
I just have the string tight along the bow, taken it off to rasp, then put it back on to tiller and measure.
when you say 20" do you mean 20" of string travel, or pulling the long string to your 20" mark? looking pretty good. right limb still stiff at midlimb but you will get there
Pulling to 20" mark
Is that What I'm supposed to be doing?
Yep - you are measuring draw length. Looking good so far!
Is that What I'm supposed to be doing?
Sorry, double post
I brace it when I get to desired draw weight at 24" and leave it braced until I am done with a tillering session. I have a 12" stick that I put between the handle and the string to get it out of the way.
John do you mean you scrape the belly while braced? with the 12" stick effectively drawing the bow to 12"? certainly not questioning your method, just need some clarification. that would certainly be easier than bracing and un-bracing a hundred times, but seems like it might contribute to set.
John
Just so I'm understanding. Once you brace it at 24", do you leave it strung from then on? Do you ever un-string it?
John
Just so I'm understanding. Once you brace it at 24", do you leave it strung from then on? Do you ever un-string it?
Here is my bow drawn to 50# at 24".
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07418.jpg)
It's not bad but needs some work midlimb. I am gonna leave it stiff where the big knot is because it has a couple cracks radiating from the center of it. I am sure it wll be OK but better safe than sorry. I marked that with "NO". Also the near handle on the right limb is bending a touch too much. Another "NO" there.
Here's how I keep the string from getting damaged.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07420.jpg)
20 rasps in the areas without "NO" and then 10 scrapes to clean up the whole thing. I won't use the rasp any more.
Here she is after that round. She's now pulling 50# at 25".
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07421.jpg)
Still needs more midlimb on both sides and a touch near the handle on the left.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07422.jpg)
Right limb looks good. Left needs another go.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07424.jpg)
That's not bad. Time to she what she looks like in the hand.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07426.jpg)
nice!!!!!
John, I haven't done any shaping of the handle. Should I hold off on that?
Yes. I don't do anything with the handle until I am done tillering.
John I never seen that with the stick before. good idea.
I can't claim credit for that. I think it was Mickey Lotz that suggested it to me years ago but lots of people use it.
I have my bow bending at my desired draw weight (50#) at 24". In the process I've created some bending issues, at least in my eyes.
What should I do next?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/7FB0785F-63B1-494D-B55B-1E74D465EC94-19019-00000AC687D50A39_zps16456a74.jpg)
You're doing fine.
Here's a useful visual. The right limb is overlaid on the left for reference.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/jeremy1.jpg)
Here's what I would do. Give it 5-10 scrapes at the areas marked green. Leave the red areas alone.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/jeremy2.jpg)
Thanks John, I will get on it sometime tonight. Between work and kids, my time is taken up. I appreciate your help.
So when I get the limbs looking the same, should I brace it up?
If so, should I go for a full brace or a low brace? If full, how much shorter string should I use?? Thank You!!
Yes.
4" or so brace. shorten the string 2" or so and try it.
Hey John, I think it's looking better but I can't quite get the limbs equal looking. It's pulling 50# @ 25". I don't know if the right limb is stiff up by the handle or what. I've been shaving but I don't want to do to much. What do you think?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/3CF66D66-BBE6-4E56-98CE-173734B1E956-19911-00000B550DC9AA66_zpse503d507.jpg)
Yes, I would work the inner third on the right a bit more. Go slow, 10 scrapes at a time and exercise it 20-30 pulls after every scraping session and then take a picture. You are getting really close though and still 2-3" of bend to make fine adjustment.
Should I do anything on the left limb?
Also, I'm still using the rasp, is that OK?
Nothing on the left right now,
No rasp. Scraper only.
Thanks John. After all this, I think I'm going to buy you a Christmas present or something!!
Better not take you 'til Christmas to get this done :)
Haha, hey I feel pretty good getting as far as I have without breaking the stave!!!!! I will hopefully get the limbs evened out tonight....... hopefully!!
don't hurry though
No, I'm in no hurry. I'm taking it slow.
Looks good Jeremy.
John did Roy share his crayons with you? :laughing:
Alright John, I'm feeling pretty good about the bow. Pulling the right weight. Limbs are looking better. There is still a difference on the right limb but I'm getting worried about scraping more off. It's definitely getting thinner.I thought I'd post a pic and find out what you're seeing.
Where else do I need to scrape?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/DDF5DC11-8138-4851-9EA8-6195F84B3518-855-0000008AF2B49D81_zps5b7e61cd.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/jeremy3.jpg)
The right limb is overlaid under the left here. I also marked where I would scrape. Green means go, red means stop. 10 scrapes at a time. Exercise and check.
Get a picture of it drawn in your hand. Mark the center of the string and put your middle finger there to draw it. Place the fulcrum of your grip right at the center of the bow. Put an arrow on it and mark the arrow wherever you are pulling to your desired weight and don't pull it any farther.
Also get a pic of it braced and unbraced (strung and unstrung).
for the braced, use a string that is two inches shorter than knock distances?
that should be close but adjust as needed,
Alright John. Is this the time I should Scrape the limbs with it braced up??
use the board to lift the string out of the way....
Yes, that's what I do. Get me that braced pic though.
OK John, I have done NO scraping since the last pic I posted. I still need to do the work you outlined. I thought I'd go ahead and post two braced pics.
What do you think?
Low Brace: string is 2" shorter than knock length.
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/831D3260-BA38-4AAA-B5A3-CE599A48C44C-2508-0000018FC3EFE040_zps228e4384.jpg)
Higher Brace: string is 4" shorter than knock length
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/796C1710-0BF5-4F68-9483-8C9DED60F270-2508-0000018FBD3EA8F6_zps55c75834.jpg)
right limb needs work from just outside of the handle to midlimb.
Will do, should I leave it stringed all the time or only when working on it?
only when working
Alright, I've spent a couple hours scraping but I have to get a little sleep. I've primarily been scraping the right side. It's gotten a little better but not quite there. Don't know if I'm doing something wrong but it sure isn't changing as fast as I thought it would. Here are some pics. Sorry, had to squat in the drawn picture. My helper wasn't available to take the pic for me so I had to squat to get it in the screen. Draw weight still hasn't changed. Still 50# at 24".
What do you think?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/85A57B35-4065-4CF1-96C4-D2725DAA08FC-2725-000001BDF0D1C1C0_zpsc82ac940.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/1148D032-0A0D-4414-BEE3-2B4FB3CF6A32-2725-000001BDF69AC434_zps10dcbab0.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/F10D8A40-1467-4BDD-B372-405038C9FF19-2725-000001BDE80DC5DA_zps88fe92e4.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by jeremy1517:
Don't know if I'm doing something wrong but it sure isn't changing as fast as I thought it would.
What do you think?
Famous words before making a 30# first bow :)
You are doing great. Patience is your most effective tool right now.
Keep scraping the same area.
Haha, will do. I was meaning, after scraping a few hrs, I was surprised it didn't change more than it did. I will take my time, don't want to mess it up.....
Once you make a few bows, you will know more about wood removal and how it affects tiller. But for now, just enjoy the process knowing it will end well. Scraping little curls of wood off an osage stave is therapeutic.
:campfire: :coffee:
Well, been at it for a while. Thought I'd post pics and see where you all think I need to scrape. I've been scraping from the handle to just over the midline on only the right limb.
I'm liking how it looks when drawn but not the upside down braced look.
I don't think this matters, but the back side of my handle is not level or flat across the handle.
Where do I need to scrape?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/3825354E-E6AC-4C3A-819F-1D80E605E0B6-3019-000001E79C363A98_zps68b96557.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/98A634D9-F916-44F4-8128-A76B23538706-3019-000001E792420C24_zps1ad7e4ed.jpg)
Getting closer. Right limb is on the bottom here.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/jeremy4.jpg)
Green means go. 10 scrapes at a time and then check.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/jeremy5.jpg)
Don't worry too much about the braced look. It helps at first to point out major issues but when you get close to full draw, that's what counts most. If you can, you might consider the right limb being the lower limb. It is slightly stiffer now and that's how you want a lower limb. Get a drawn pic with it as the lower after a couple scraping session.
I cut the notches on the top at 3/4" down and the bottom notch was cut 1/2" down from the end. That's the only difference. If that doesn't matter I will switch it. What do you think? I've been using the push/pull method of stringing and not a stringer.
That should be fine.
Alright John, I feel like it's getting close. Makes me nervous..... I want to check in with an update to see what you think.
Here is the current bend at 25", still pulling 50#.
I flipped the top and bottom for the picture of me drawing the bow. Stiffer side is now the bottom limb.
What do you think?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/04C8556D-37EC-43EA-9B97-A2648B65EB67-3178-000001FDB414A198_zpsadeb8e1a.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/448C84A8-74A6-43E5-8137-100F010C9874-3178-000001FDA8464C66_zpscf71ea52.jpg)
Still needs a little in those spots marked above. Looking good.
John you just made my head hurt! did you mean to say make the right limb the upper? don't you want to make the stiffer limb the upper, because pulling from above the center of the string puts more pull into the upper than the lower? or have i had this backwards the entire time? if you didn't mis-speak, I would be most gracious if you could explain it! :pray:
jeremy-looking way better! nice job.
John- you have to show me the double exposure limb pic trick... :)
Bob
Alright, here's after the next round of scraping....
Thoughts?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/43771D3F-5102-4272-8C28-B11F80E1C6B4-3367-0000021C0D999261_zps1821f5d1.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/F893DB6F-10BE-49D4-887D-673BB4ED6A2F-3367-0000021C04DFBF74_zpsd253f6a8.jpg)
My Daughter was helping in that pic.....
Eric,
That discussion can get pretty deep so let's not get into it on this thread. Suffice it to say that long-held wisdom is that the lower limb should be the stiffer one. Start a thread called "positive v. negative tiller on selfbows" and the collective can weigh in from all sides.
Bob,
I could show you in person pretty easy but to try to explain it here is hard. I use photofiltre, copy one limb, flip it horizontally and then make it 50% opaque and then paste it adjacent to the other limb. Got that? :)
Jeremy, you are getting really close. Work those two areas at the tips I marked above. What is your draw weight? Try to hit your mark 1-2" short of your draw length to accommodate for shooting it in and finish work.
Oh yeah, never, ever pass up an opportunity to show off your babies.
Will Do John...
Am I close enough I need to be really careful with the tips??
The last scraping has changed my draw weight a bit.
I have to pull it to 26" to hit 50#. My Goal would be 50# at 28" so I guess I'm right there as far as weight goes. I really don't mind it being a little heavier.
My current Longbow is 57# at 28 1/2 so it definitely feels lighter.
You might want to just shoot it in then. It's close enough. After you have put an arrow through it, you can call it a bow. Then put 100 or so through it and get another full draw pic up. Tiller often needs some adjustment after shooting it. I final tiller based on how it shhots and feels.
So what your saying....
I'm close enough you don't want me to mess with the tips anymore??
I'm ok if it's a little lighter than 50#... I just want it strong enough to take a deer. If you think it needs scraped, I will. I want it correct. But, It sounds like it I might do some adjustments after shooting.
So Shoot it??
Yes. You might want to after shooting it in but you are fine for now.
:clapper:
Alright, first Five Arrows sent flying... 7 yrds
Tried different spines to see what happened.
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/7E85691B-E1C3-49A6-9EBE-5FF6B1822CBD-3367-000002220E6535B4_zps3d7537a2.jpg)
Alright, so the bow won't have a shelf cut into it. I knock the arrow on the string and it's angled left (right handed shooter). All the arrows went left. Is that something I'll just get used to or is there other work later on?
Also, shoots great, nice strong. The wrist slap is terrible though. Gave me welts THROUGH my leather arm sleeve. Is brace height wrong or do I need to do something different? Going back to bow shooting one on one....
Yes, you need to get brace to about 6-1/2". Spine on selfbows like this one will usually be 10# or so below standard. In other words, for a 50# bow, 40-45# spine is probably called for. We can work on the tuning after we get the tiller. Raise the brace height and shoot your lightest spined arrows about 100 shots and then get another full draw pic.
Have enjoyed watching this one - nice job to both John and Jeremy!
Thanks John. I need to change my Brace Height. I actually have some 40-45# spine arrows.
Thank you again for your help. I know it's been bow building for dummy's but I have learned a ton of info about bow building!!
Still have a bit to go though..... Just gotta finish the bow!!
:clapper:
im impressed, you came into this not knowing a whole lot (i still don't know a whole lot) and you have done a masterful tillering job. looks good, hope you realize this is just the beginning... you are going to need to set aside about $1000 a month for all the tools and wood you are going to need :laughing:
Haha, my wife will have something to say about that!!!
I'll tell you what I want to do. My son is three. I made him a PVC bow that has a 10# draw weight for his first bow.
My goal is to build all his bows for him as he's growing up.
He helped me in the shaping, painting, etc. of making his first bow. It was a wonderful experience!! I would love to make a bow with him every year. Now that I have some of the basics and a good source for Osage staves and knowledge (thanks John), I think I can make it happen!!
what you got to do is convince her that it will be much easier if you have your own little "allowance" say "look honey, all the bills come out of this account... all the bills, groceries, child care..... all that family stuff. then all my spending money and gas money.... just give me this other little account on the side... put my $100 or $150 or so in there a week so i can get my gas and my lunch and my coffee and whatnot.... then i don't have to ask permission every time i want to buy something." thats what i did, everbody happy! she don't worry about how much money im spending, and she don't know i saved up 600 bucks until the flatbead truck arrives with my new bandsaw :goldtooth: then one day she comes down to my workshop to yell at me about cutting the grass or something.... and she's all like "where did all this come from?!" well babe... i save my lunch money!
HAHA, sounds like you've done this before....
I've shot about 40 arrows. My Timber hitch keeps loosening on me. I've followed the video but it doesn't seem to want to stay tight. I have to redo the hitch about every 10 arrows....
Any suggestions? besides tie a better knot..
Jeremy that's a job well done, congrats.
When you bring your string around to make your loop make sure that it starts the 3 wraps in reverse of the twist of the string. All 3 wraps need to be up against the side of the nock. Done correctly the loose end should point towards the center of the bow. Keep the loose end held with a tight grip with one hand and with the other hand gripping the string and work sideways back and forth until that string is centered on the belly and tight.
Show me a picture of your timber hitch. It should never slip. But, at this point, you should know the final length and can make or order a string. Get it braced to 6" and tell me the length. I'll send you a string.
I've been married for almost 23 years now. Marriage and family is always the priority. The first 5-6 years of my bowmaking career was done with a hatchet, drawknife, 4 way rasp and a butcher knife. Find and cut your own wood and you can be very cost effective in making bows. There is a lot of great osage in Kansas. This first one was just a taste. Now go get the full meal deal.
Thanks guys! John, I'll send you stuff when I get home from church. There is bad hand vibration when shooting. Is that normal with this type of bow or is it something I can fix?
A bendy handled bow will shock more but we will get rid of some of the mass at the tips as we work it towards finishing.
Awwww. I was doing the timber hitch wrong..... stupid me....
Alright, Now that I have the Timber hitch correct shooting has gone much better.... hah
I've shot around 120 arrows. I've found that it shoots best around a 6" brace height. The draw weight feels really good and the bow shoots accurate!! What's the next step?
Here are pics after shooting 120 arrows.
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/16A7FC69-20CF-485B-811F-407F7E44F75F-4036-000002850A71B504_zps6a657fc4.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/9D900894-111C-4A6D-9465-AA52AD43B4AA-4036-000002851135135F_zpsd297cb18.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/5CA7617F-0B64-4F9B-9862-6E352D45ADEB-4036-00000285178AF829_zpsc6504ba4.jpg)
Give it just a few scrapes at a time at the ends where I marked it above. I'd like to see a little more movement there. You can now start working the tips to narrow them to 1/2" or so at the nock. You can probably round the handle slightly and maybe even narrow it a bit. Take a pic of the handle from the side and the top and we'll go from there.
By tips, are you saying narrow the area outside the knocks or from knocks to the tips?
Both ends are currently 3/4" wide. Should I use a file/rasp and carefully narrow the limbs equally on each side or is there a better tool?
Here are your pics of the handle:
Belly view of the handle
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/EF772FCE-BBCB-4E66-B1EA-54BEDE074DC6-4036-000002898BD837C2_zpsfa71d38e.jpg)
Belly closest to my feet/ side view
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/90B60066-DF8F-41C4-B988-2F73E06F821E-4036-0000028993833B74_zps6f9eacbb.jpg)
Back View
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/8DD786C4-A498-40A8-8C59-373BFC20E58A-4036-000002899AE6590C_zps3dcfc027.jpg)
Back side closest to feet/ side view
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/0A0498F3-DEE5-42E9-9E24-D89CA745A64E-4036-00000289A43993AA_zpsbf8a987e.jpg)
You can narrow the last 5" or so of the tips. I use a rasp.
You can round the handle but I wouldn't narrow it too much.
So does the last 5" need to be 1/2" wide or start at the 5" mark and gradually narrow to end?
For the handle, nothing more than slightly rounding the edges?
I can do that.......
Do you wear a glove on your left hand?
Start at the width at 5" and taper it to 1/2: nocks.
I don't wear a glove. I use a wedge of leather as a rest. Sometimes I make a floppy arrow rest.
thanks, I'll have to see how you make your arrow rest.
Should I level out the belly side of the handle or leave it as is? It's a little uneven but it doesn't bother me.
Alright John, I've scraped the end of the limbs some more. Here are the pics. I figured I need to get the tips where they need to be before I start narrowing them down.
Thoughts?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/8D058291-22BA-46A0-82D0-E7BBD6A78396-4308-000002B823CD29C4_zps72c9ee8a.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/9F68B844-86B4-4BEB-BE23-941264393202-4308-000002B82D674816_zpsa1fc7b6e.jpg)
It looks really good drawn by hand. I'd start finishing it if it were me.
Thanks Brother John!! So, the real question is, if it was your bow, what would you do to it? Would you scrape more or finish it?
Alright, I rounded the handle. It's comfortable but I can do more if you think I need to. I've also tapered down the ends so that they are half an inch on the ends and knock area. Here are pics
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/CF65E22F-2EFF-4108-944A-43ED5A9D396B-4421-000002D368604445_zps86756025.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/8A3C5EA5-963A-4E8B-875E-AB66E7D61F74-4421-000002D371C3F14F_zpsfc11c6bb.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/2D290CD4-5014-4F9C-BD8E-3B33FBD1464C-4421-000002D37C0236B1_zps0afad1f6.jpg)
I'd have to feel it shoot but I would likely try to get a bit more movement at the ends. Are you at full draw? It would help if you could mark an arrow with electrical tape at your draw length and then pull it back with to that mark and get a pic.
Stiff sections at the tip help keep string angle down and make for a smoother draw. But they come at the price of more mass at the tips. More mass means more thump. You can mitigate that by making the stiff tips narrow and deep a la the Holmegard or Mollegebat designs. But that is not how this bow was designed. It is often said that if you make wood twice as thick you will make it 8 times as strong. But if you make it twice as wide you only make it twice as strong. In other words, we can make narrow tips strong enough to keep from bending simply by leaving them thicker.
I'm at a full draw. It feels pretty good to shoot. There is some thump. I'll try to scrape some more from the tips.
Do you think I need to make the tips narrower? They re at 1/2" now.
No
Hey John, I'll work on the tips a bit. Does the other parts of the limbs look alright?
Also what is the finishing steps? I'm assuming sanding. I want a leather grip like you use with the bulked up arrow rest. So I need some leather. What do I need for the bow as far as finishes? Linseed oil, urathane, etc.
Planning on taking a trip to the hardware store today
Yes.
Shape the tips some more. They should be a blunt point.
Scrape the whole thing down to remove tool marks. Work in a well lit area, preferably outside in the sunshine. Sight down the bow with different light angles to really help pick up the tool marks. Use 100, 150, and the 220 grit sandpaper. And then look it over really good once again. Burnish with 0000 steel wool. One simple finish is Minwax spray polyurethane done in light coats 15 minutes apart. Use 6 coats of gloss and then 2-3 coats of satin. Let it cure for 3 days.
I also really like a hand rubbed oil finish, I use teak oil. It takes a little while longer to truly harden but it is really easy to do and also to touch up.
Then do your handle. I'll work mine down to the same point you are at and post some pics. I'll send you some leather.
What do you mean by a blunt point?
Also, what is the process for the Teak Oil finish?
Blunt point - as opposed to a block of wood at the end. Pointed but not sharp. The goal is to reduce the amount of wood at the tip. Ideally, we would have the bare minimum for functionality and durability. In reality we have to leave a margin of error because to take it too far risks screwing up an entire bow for the sake of a few grams of tip weight. Read the Traditional Bowyer's Bible Vol 1, particularly the Design and Tillering chapter.
Teak oil finish - Flood coat it with oil, let it sit for 10 minutes and then rub it down really well. Repeat a couple times. Let it sit for a couple weeks in low relative humidity, like an air conditioned house. It can be repeated anytime. Car wax also makes it look really great between reapplication coats.
Thanks, whats the least shiny finish?
Another question. Shaping the tip. Should I leave the "back" side of the bow as is and rasp the belly side at an angle up to it?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/0F1AE96C-7DE3-46C8-B994-107A20810A22-5099-000003315F29B7E2_zpsbd757dd0.jpg)
Probably the satin poly. You can make poly almost an orange peel by lightly dusting from about 2' but I think the satin looks just fine.
The teak oil is not shiny at all though. I'll try to get pic tonight to show a comparison.
It's not the easiest to see but the darker bow is satin polyurethane. The other is teak oil. I'd judge the shine to be similar but the teak oil is a bit shinier.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07463.jpg) (http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07466.jpg)
Tip before shaping with future outline drawn on.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07467.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07468.jpg)
After shaping.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07469.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07470.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07472.jpg)
A floppy rest taped on for bow tuning.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07473.jpg)
Gluing on a wedge arrow rest.
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07474.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07475.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07476.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07477.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07478.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07479.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07480.jpg)
About this time you are trying to figure out a way to cuss me out on tradgang with both your hands glued to your bow :)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07481.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07482.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07483.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07484.jpg)
(http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/jdscifres/DSC07485.jpg)
You can file it down again and then recoat with superglue.
Be very careful not to get into the wood when shaping the rest.
Which rest would work best with my handle. I think you mentioned I shouldn't do more than rounding the edges. I see you have your leather Wedge rest on a bow where the handle is narrow. Will that work on mine?
By the way, the Osage is Beautiful!!
Either one will work.
I like the wedge rest. Now a big question. My handle size fits my hand perfectly. Is there a process for determining where to put the rest? At the top of the grip, etc?
That's where tuning comes in and the temporary floppy I had on that bow. Shoot the bow with different rest placement and find where it shoots most quietly and the draw and release are comfortable. When you find that, put a temporary rest on and then tune the bow. Adjust brace height and string nock. Dial it in and then that will help you know where to put the final rest.
John, Can I make my nock's into this shape?
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/nock_zpsa07e5bff.jpg)
Not unless you glue on the overlays. Never cut through the back if you don't have overlays. And honestly, overlays are too much trouble for me most of the time. Pretty but I prefer simple.
The general shape would be fine though. There are really no hard and fast rules and you can get as creative as you want. That's too long and pointed for my tastes, especially for a hunting bow that is gonna be banging around the bush.
Hey John, still working on the bow. I'm a teacher and have had two nights of meetings/open houses so I haven't had much time. Will any leather work for the wedge rest? Also, Is there a benefit to shooting off the rest vs. the hand?
Good job on the tutorial here, John. Dang nice bows too.
I make my shelves like you do, but glue the pieces together and then hold them in my hand and shape them on my drum sander. A little risky perhaps but works well... and no risk of nicking the finish of the bow.
Jeremy, p.m. me your postal address and I'll send you some thick stout leather... enough for a handful of shelves.
Wow, Thanks !!
Any leather will work but thicker means fewer layers.
As long as my arrow is really close to the top of my hand, I can shoot about the same with a rest. A rest provides a certain launch point which helps especially for those who haven't shot a lot off the hand. In the end, after a million shots or so, a good shooter will shoot the same from a rest or off their hand. It really depends on your own desires.
Yes, the stuff I'll send you is thick and stiff. Thick enough I only use two pieces glued together for my shelf... and then while shaping I even grind almost half of the outer piece away. I use just enough to hold the arrow.
Since the leather is stiff and my grip is rounded on the side, I grind it a little concave on the backside on my drum sander so it lays on there nicely.
John, With the wedge grip, does the top of your hand touch/cover part of the wedge?
Yes,
Alright John, How do these ends look. I'm sanding the bow now, trying to smooth it all out.
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/3EA6F45E-4C7C-47B0-A602-F6EF64C93CB2-9764-000005EAE8AECB99_zpsde9ff68a.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/6D43909D-FC56-4CE7-94EC-DA80DD049FB6-9764-000005EAE2EA1066_zpsb994bf0f.jpg)
(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/2749F8EF-BE8D-4137-8E8C-3B119780986A-9764-000005EADB18103C_zps446c47d9.jpg)
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(http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a623/jeremyk1517/479DA1C1-4E36-4B7A-BBAB-612B96B6B9DC-9764-000005EACA055F36_zps5c540d9a.jpg)
:)
Question about Teak Oil...
What is the process for applying it?
I just follow the label directions. Basically brush it on, let it sit for awhile and rub it off. Repeat a couple times. Don't let it completely dry though. It takes a week or so for it to really harden after application. Keep it indoors in an air conditioned space.
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Looks Good John, thanks
John, What do you use to glue the leather grip to the wood?
rubber cement
Last coat of teak oil has been applied. The instructions say I need to wait eight hours for it to be usable.
Hopefully....... I will add the grip and have a finished bow tomorrow!!!!
Hey John, just thinking about the Teak Oil. The instructions say to really coat the wood on the first coat, wait 30 minutes for it to soak in then hit it with a second coat. After the second coat, wipe off any excess then let it sit for eight hours. Do you do a similar procedure with your bows? Also, do I need a coat of urathane or will the Teak oil be enough?
Oh, by the way, I took the bow into the local shop and it's pulling 54# at 28", so, my scale is off a bit. It's all good though, I like the way it feels and shoots.
Bow is Finished!!! Arrows have been made!!
Thank You all for your help! I Big, Big, Big Thank you to John.
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you are required to post a full draw pic. it is a law. :laughing: good job man!
I will post a drawn pic. Ran out of time last night.
I just follow the directions. I have not had a problem with teak oil and the elements on a hunting bow. But I also have not used one for a week in the mountains on a backpack elk hunt. Usually just day hunts. But it should be fine, especially on osage, in all weather conditions, assuming good care. You can also add a coat whenever you want.
Nice job on the bow. I've been installing a floor and did a gut job on a bathroom the past couple weeks so no bowmaking for me. I'm about done and will probably take a couple projects to the lake this Labor day weekend.
Congrats on your bow :clapper: Great coaching and execution guys!