I'm working on a new TD recurve built from babinga & cherry hardwoods. This is the first time I've worked with babinga and only my second time to use Tru-Oil. I sanded the riser down to ultra-smooth using 400 grit before I started the Tru-Oil regimen. I just applied the 18th coat of Tru-Oil this evening and I still can see small depressions in the surface finish from the underlying grain. Wow, this babinga is beautiful but it's very grainy stuff! I was hoping for a perfectly smooth finish but now I'm not sure if that's even possible with such a deep grained wood. Should I throw in the towel or keep going?
Thanks,
Charles
Madison, AL
Are you sanding between coats?
You can fill in the grain and pores with super glue before using tru oil to help you get a smooth finish. I'm not sure if you can do it over tru oil then tru oil back on top though, haven't tried that.
-Jay
Yes, for the first 4 coats I sanded lightly between coats with 400 grit. Since then I've been scuffing with synthetic 000 steel wool between coats.
I've never heard of filling grain with super glue. Very interesting! How is it applied, how many layers are needed, and does it keep the Tru_oil from soaking in to the wood and bringing out it's natural beauty?
Birchwood-Casey makes a sealer and filler for use before Tru-oil.It works pretty good. Bob
I did a Bubinga risered bow lastyear and it took 9 coats of Massey finish to fill all the pores. Once filled the final finish went on smooth as silk. I havn't used Tru-oil in a long time.
I'm not familiar with Massey finish. I assume it's designed to fill heavy grains. Does it go on and stay clear?
Erwincm,
Massey finish is two part epoxy and acetone. It goes on clear and stays clear.
I use the two part epoxy (Permatex brand) that comes in the syringe and has a 30 minute or longer set time. Mix it one part epoxy to four parts acetone. No need to mix the epoxy before adding acetone. It will blend together while mixing with the acetone. Takes about a minute or two of stiring to totally mix.
The only drawback is cure time between coats. Each coat will need atleast six hours before applying the next coat. If you can apply the next coat in six to eight hours there is no need to sand between coats. Otherwise you will need to light sand between coats.
It takes time and sometime several coats (depending on the wood) to fill all the pores, but well worth it in the end.
Troy
If you dont seal it first there is a good chance oil will leech through as many coats as you put on. Ive seen it happen.Shellac will work good for a first coat. Super glue is even better.
Wouldn't that take a lot of super glue?
Nope. One small bottle will easily do up a riser. It spreads and covers much better than I expected it to. And it looks nice if you use good glue.
I assume you apply the super glue with a cloth covered fingertip in thin layers just like Tru-Oil application technique?
I use my bare fingers and just pick it off over the next week! Im sure a lint free rag would work fine. Get GOOD glue. Loc Tite Professional is hard to beat. Its Gin clear and gives you time to spread it evenly.
I'll give it a shot. Just one layer or several? Hopefully Home Depot carries it. I'll check tomorrow.
Troy, thanks for the epoxy/acetone technique. I'll try both options and see which one works best. I'm hopefull that these techniques don't prevent the Tru-Oil from soaking into the wood a doing it's job of bringing out out the wood grain.
Thanks guys!
One layer and yes, it will prevent Tru Oil from soaking in. It has to in order to keep the woods oil from coming out.
Then maybe I should use the super glue after I've applied a few layers of Tru-Oil so I can bring out the wood color before I seal it up with the super glue?
Wont work. The oils in the wood wont allow the Tru Oil to dry. Thats why you need to seal the wood first with glue or shellac.
Ok. I'll give it a shot. Thanks guys!