Trad Gang

Hey guys-
 So I have been attempting to make a Kenny M R/D design longbow without any luck. Having such a hard time getting the radius to fit with the form for the riser.
 I would like to make a couple HH longbow designs to build up to a R/D. What are the dimensions for a HH bow. I would like to make out out of Osage and Bamboo and then a fiberglass one. I have a few BBO under my belt but would like to make a heavier bow somewhere around 60#. Any information on these bows would be great!
 Thanks in advance!!!

Justin

I`d rather start with the fiberglass one- I consider them to be more forgiving (in building) than boo backed- but if you already did other BBs you wont have big trouble with.
Anyway I heard A-Boo without facing won`t do as good as ipe, massaranduba etc. does under BB- except you give serious reflex for performance and to prevent stringfollow.
Hill used to use one piece of (kind of) aboo under BB- if you glue up more layers it will be more likely to keep it`s form/remain straight.

Good look, looking forward for pics^^

Justin, I will get ya some dimensions next time I am down at my shop. How long are you thinking about making and what#?

That is for a glass bow

Rmorris-
  I have kenny working on my stack. I am looking for width at fades, how long that dimension cadets out to the limb and then tip width. Handle width that sort of dimensions.

Well now that I am at a computer and don't have to type on my phone maybe it will make more sense.

I am looking for dimensions on how far out the width at the fades gets drawn out up the limb. I thought that I read it was something like 18 inches from the fades but I am not positive. My bow I am looking to make will be 66 ttt 65-60# @ 28 inch draw.

I make my HH style 1 1/8'' wide at fades, straight taper from fades back to nock groove at 1/2'' wide with a 16'' riser.This for 66 and 68 NTN bows.

A Justin you want to keep limbwidth paralell after the fades until midlimb- got you right?

MoeM I thought that I read that in someone's thread here. Maybe I am wrong...

Maybe I wrote smth. similar- I once made a step in widthnesstaper- from the fades I aimed for ~3/4" at blanks ends and then from midlimb to 1/2" to get a perfect circle- but thats not necessary at all.

Justin, I use the exact same measurements Bob does, there is a posting on the Pow Wow where quite a few people talked about the dimensions of their bows. I will see if I can find it.

I do not keep anything parallel, I do a straight taper from the ends of the fadeouts to the tips.

QuoteOriginally posted by rmorris:
 I do not keep anything parallel, I do a straight taper from the ends of the fadeouts to the tips.

What taper do you use in your stack for that?  Sounds like a narrow pyramid design.

From back to belly I do anywhere from a .004/" to .008/" taper depending on the length of the bow and length of draw.

From the side of the bow I do a straight line from fadeouts (1.125" wide) down to the tips( just over .5" wide)

All kinds of differnt designs.

On a 68" bow, I keep my limbs parallel from center out to 18" on each limb, then taper to 1/2" at the tips.

Now Justin, with this input, let me know what style you are lookin at so we can take a stab at stack! LOL

Or better, decide which of the above and we will ask the builder to share stack...  if they will  :)

Here is some helpful information

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=118728

Hey Justin,

Here is some info...

Here are specs for three Hill style bows.

Bow Name/Label: Howard Hill, Northern Mist, Northern Mist
Model: Tembo, Classic TD, Shelton
NTN: 68'', 68'', 66''
Nock Width: 1/4'', 5/16'', 5/16''
Profile: Backset 1'' , Very Slight R/D , String Follow 1 1/8''
Lams/Type: 3 Bamboo, 4 American Elm, 4 Bamboo
Riser Width: 1 1/8', 1'', 1 1/8''
Handle Depth: 2 1/4'' to 2 3/16'' on dished grip, 2 1/8'', 2 1/8''
Handle Shape: Slight dish/Oblong, Straight/Oval, Straight/Oval
Handle Width: 1 1/4'', 1 1/16'', 1 1/8''
Riser Length: 15'', 16'', 15 1/2''
Limb width at nock: 7/16'', 1/2'', 1/2''
Limb width at midlimb: 15/16'', 7/8'', 7/8''
Limb width at riser: 1 1/8'', 1 1/8'', 1 1/8''
Limb depth at nock: 3/8'', 3/8'', 3/8''
Limb depth at midlimb: 7/16'', 7/16'', 7/16''
Limb depth at riser: 1/2'', 1/2'', 1/2''
trapped etc.: Trapped to belly, Trapped to back, Trapped to back
Bowyer: John Schulz, Steve Turay, Steve Turay
Est. Year Built: 1970s, 2011, 2009
Marked Specs: 64# @ 26'', 56# @ 28'', 56# @ 28''

Oh, that is from the thread Ralph referred to..

I saw that Kenny. I talked to john who told me to carry the 1.25 out 18 inches and then taper to my nocks. That's the only issue I had figuring out what the hell to do. Now I just have to find a measurement for how long the fades are...

You mean the simple length of each same fades or the differences in fadelenght in order to align limblength according to risers`/arrowpasses` position?

I know the length of the handle is 4 inches so the transition length from handle to limb

Right 4"-4 3/8" so wheres the problem??? Just (riserlength-handlelenght)/2=fadelenght; thats it...
If your question isn`t answered I really worry about my understanding^^
(Usual Hill risers go 12" till 16" I prefere 14"-15")

Yep.  I make mine 16" with a 4 inch handle area and 6" fades one each end starting at the ends of the handle area.  I maintain 1.25" with from the center of the bow (center of the handle) out to 18" on each limb and then taper to 1/2" at the nocks.

Not sayin' that's the way it should be done, just how I do it.  It leaves me a little wiggle room to reduce the limb width if it does come in over weight.  So most of my bows end up somewhere between 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" wide.

Ok jsweka... Sounds like I have a rough idea on what I am doing now lol. Thanks to everyone with info about these bows. I will post pictures of my progress... Just waiting on the material from Kenny. Can't wait to start this one... hoping to be able to do a little turkey hunting this spring!

So John this means your bottom limbs are 2x1.25" shorter?!

Moe - No. They're the same length.  Everything on my bows are symmetrical.  I'll decide which will be the top limb after first stinging, and the stiffer of the limbs goes on the bottom.

Gezzze, yunz's lost me... :)

Sounds great and EASY John- I deal with the limblength at every new Hill because I try to get the shelf as close to the center as possible without moving the pressure point to low and getting a much shorter bottom limb.
Actualy I also started different length fades...
As I know from Roy that you`re OK I guess I`ll give it a try next time^^

im glad im not thinking of making a glass bow you lost me on page one  :dunno:  hope it goes well you will have to post some pics as you build it for me and roy to understand lol...

Moe - Yeah, I take the easy route.  I built a left handed bow once for my brother-in-law and that messed with my mind enough.  Can't imagine what different limb and fade lengths would do.

Hey Guys-
So my bow is all glued up and I need to take all the boogers off of it when I get out of work. Then I want to get the bow to rough dimensions. My brain can't wrap around the handle area.

My riser is 16 inches long. My handle area is 4 inches. The handle width is going to start at 1 1/8 wide and 1 3/4 high. Since I will have a straight 4 inch handle that leaves 12 inches of fades... six inches on each side tapering from 1 1/8 at the handle to 1 1/4 to the top of the fade. I am sure this isn't correct. I want some of the fade area to bend but I just can't figure out how long my fades will be for this bow.

Can anyone draw or explain it to me please.... I ain't the sharpest tool in the shed I guess lol

That sounds long for a riser and if you get that fade bending, the riser could pop off.

Roy this is my sissy glass bow. Normally I make my fades 2 1/2 or so inches on my BBO but have no clue what I am doing on a glass bow.

Glass? OMG:)

lol I knew you would say that

So today I have been working very hard on the bow. After six hours I have all of the boogers cleaned off and one limb roughed out. I was doing this all by hand and taking it as slow as I could with the sander. I settled on 66 ttt and 1/ 1/4 inch wide limbs tapering to 1/2 tips. I followed advice from John and could not have got this far without him and Kenny.

It took me three tries to lay the bow out on the tape until I was satisfied with the lines. The riser is 16 inches long on the back and 4 inches on the belly for the handle. 6 inch long fades that will taper from the handle of 1 1/8 back out to the 1 1/4 limb. I may have to narrow the bow down because of one slight hick up.

During my sanding the tips and getting really close to the line I didn't notice my belt was riding up and the tip went under.... Small amount got caught under the belt but I saved it the best that I could. You can see the damage that it did but I believe if I either snip the tip by a half inch to an inch and then add the tip overlay on I will be all set. But I definately will need some advice on how to fix it.

Anyways... to the pics!!!

Riser is cocobolo and osage accent
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0590.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0590.jpg.html)

My transition... I don't think they look bad for my first time
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0589.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0589.jpg.html)

The tip damage from the slip
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0588.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0588.jpg.html)

Brown glass on back and belly
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0591.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0591.jpg.html)

A big THANK YOU to kennym and john for all of your help... will still need some more along the way but I promised pictures and figured this was a good starting point to post

Any comments or whatever welcomed!!!

Justin

Well sigh...

I guess it's Ok..   :laughing:

Thanks a lot retired guy!

all looks very good to me and the transition area is spot on! Not sure what to do re the tip though.

Lookin' good Justin.  I think you have it figured out.  The fadeouts look great.  I don't notice any glue lines in the pic.

How much of tip is messed up beyond where your string grooves will go?  If it's all beyond where the string grooves go, it will be no problem.  Maybe just a shorter tip than what you wanted.  If it does lie where the string grooves will go, your best bet would be to move the string grooves in on each limb making a shorter bow by an inch or two.  This will increase the draw weight, but you still have plenty of width to narrow to bring the weight back down.

John-
  The tip is really bad only about an inch from the end. If I shorten it an inch on each I think that I will have no problem. I think  you are right about having plenty of width still. A shorter bow for me I would really like because I hunt with these bows and just makes it easier to shoot. I will shorten it an inch and then get a picture up for you to see. I am going to get the other limb roughed out and then hope to start puting the tip overlays on. Now I assume you do not feather them in like you would on a BBO bow. Measure where I want the string grooves and then just rough the glass up with 50 grit or a hacksaw blade?

I would love to see this thing bend before the end of the week. I really want to take this out hunting for turkey.

Oh also since I am shortening it up an inch should I push the transition back an inch from paralell of the limb to the tip. If that makes sense.

Justin - When you say "feather" are you talking cutting an angle down through the glass and laminations?  Don't do that.  Here's a pic of one of mine with the tip overlays glued on and the string grooves cut, but not finished.

(http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/jsweka/BowBuild/CAM_1738.jpg)

DO blend in the front of the tip overlays into the glass.

Ok that's what I figured.... I gut the tips back Nd it is fine again...no issues

Lookin good Justin! Listen to John, he builds a fine Hill style.

Pay no attention to the retirded guy, he is just jealous he ain't building hi tech glass powered  real bows....  :laughing:    :laughing:  

Jus kiddin Roy!!  :D

You girls kin make all dem glass bows yunzs want:) I like looken at them and sometimes I like shooten them. Dat's all I'm sayen:) Cept wood rocks...

Roy - I did say I was toying with the idea of a selfbow.  The one thing that gives me second thoughts is that I have a 50% success rate on wood bows (one good Dryad BBO blank, one light weight HBI, and two HBIs that broke while tillering), but a 100% success rate on glass bows.

Well finally got the bow to roughed out and got some side nocks notched out. And we have her bending. I have to work on the tiller some and narrow down the limbs... She is a bit heavy. I just tried to put her on the scale and I am at 50# at 21 inches. I draw to 28 so we got some weight to remove.

Hey john think that i should try bringing her down to 1 1/8 width instead of the 1 1/4 inch. I measured the deapest part of the bends and both are at 6 inches right now.

Can you guys give me some advice on how to tiller this thing. Should I measure each inch of the string and then compare each sides when it bends or do I just look at the stiff spots and get rid of them. I don't have my trusty gizmo to assist me with this so I need some help from you guys.

 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0594.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0594.jpg.html)

Don't pay attention to the back of the tailgate for a reference. That vice gizmo will lean to whatever side it wants because of the weight so it isn't level

thanks guys... getting really excited

I thought the left rear spring was squatting from all that weight.   :laughing:  

Bow looks real nice, Justin.

lol my truck aint that bad roy lol... wait till she gets lifted and ridin on 35... then maybe that lil vice wont make it bottom out.

thanks for the compliment on my bow!

Justin - This ain't a wood bow and won't take set or break like a wood bow.  It will take a little bit of set, but you'll only notice it if you sight down the edge of the limbs.  You could draw that sucker back to 28" if you wanted to.  I'll bet it's around 70#.  What was your intended draw weight again?  I'd start narrowing the limbs a little bit at a time and rechecking the draw weight.  

Most of the time I really don't need to do much if any tillering other than cutting the limbs to width.  When I do need to do some adjusting, I'll measure from the tips of the fadeouts to the string and also lay the strung bow on a bench like you have it positioned on your pic and measure from my bench to the string grooves.  Another good option is to trace one of limbs, flip the bow over and trace the other limb.  This will tell you which is stiffer and where it's stiffer.  And of course, just eyeball it.  I'll also use a tillering stick to check when it's drawn to about 18". (Not sure why 18", that's just what Binghams said to do in one of their videos).

Your limbs look to be bending evenly, so I'd just start narrowing to reduce weight and adjust as you go if needed.

Not that I know anything about glass bows, but trapping the back would reduce weight too. With glass bows and the man made materials they are built from, there should be no flat spots, unless your form is not perfect. So I would either trap it out, and or narrow each limb equally. And check your form for uniformity.

And why is the distance so great from your string grooves to the end of the limb tips? That looks stupid...  :laughing:

Yes.  Trapping is another option, but it's a little more difficult than just reducing the limb width.

Another thing to remember is that the bow will lose about 3 pounds simply by rounding over the edges of the limbs.

Just like an old retired guy...worrying about the little things.  There's plenty of time to purty up the limb tips.  I tend to leave mine long too and cut them to shape after everything else is shaped up.

You glass boys crack me up. Ya glue em up and cut em out and that's it. Heck even a kid could do that:) I mean look at Ole Kenny M, he makes em too...   :laughing:

As much as I hate to admit it,     Roy, you are somewhat correct.  I'm as mechanically dis-inclined as a person can get and I still manage to make shootable bows.

:biglaugh:    :biglaugh:    :biglaugh:    :biglaugh:  sunds like me!

Ok jsweka-
 When I get home from work in the morning and after scouting for turkeys of course I will place it on the tillering tree and draw that sucker back to 28 and see what the poundage is. I would like to shoot for the 55# range =/- is ok. I think that it will look a little better if I got to 1 1/8 inch and narrower tips.

Roy- I have an inch benhind the string so that i can shape the tips when I am ready. Don't make me come down and put a whoopin on your old retired rear...LOL

LOL come on down, Boy:)

Helluva job you are doing there! But your wood bow building background is slowing you down. Tillering a glass bow takes me about 20 minutes. Just draw it on the scale to 28" (it won't break, promise). Evenly narrow the width of the limbs to about 5 # over intended draw weight.  Measure from the fades to the belly while the bow is strung on each end. Make the longer measurement your top limb.  Narrow the stiff limbs sides (not belly) until you have whatever positive tiller measurement you want ( I shoot split so I like +1/8".) round the edges and finish sand and you should be +- 2#. Done! Don't make this stuff tougher than it needs to be. Don't tell anyone but glass bows are dead easy...that's why I build them. Your are gonna love your new bow!

Bonner

Nicely said Mr Bonner!

QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Bonner:
Don't tell anyone but glass bows are dead easy...that's why I build them.
Bonner

Aw man, now Roy will never give us glass guys any respect.

You glass girls have a lot of my respect. Just not something I want to try.

Hey Justin - We need an update.  How's it coming along?  Or did you just give up on it after killing that bird with your BBO?

Hey guys... I took a break over the weekend because turkey season had started and so I was trying to get my girlfriend a bird but no such luck. They didn't want to work at all but we got close and she had fun. I'm gonna check the weight today and I will give ya an update of what is the next step. I did glue up some lashed and coco for tip overlays. Will get back to to ya a little later today.

So I put my bow on the tree... 70# @ 28 right now... Gonna thin the limbs some more. Hoping to get closer to 60 at least

Get some pics for us- im ill and maybe some motivation to get my ass down the shop would speed up cure...

I think you'll be able to get it close to 60.

I'd be happy with 60#... That would make a great deer weight hunting bow. I just need to get back at it... My life has revolved around turkey hunting and work.  I think I may narrow the tips some too... they kind of look chunky right now at 1/2 inches wide.

Hey Justin - Any updates??????

Tomorrow is my day off so I hope to finish the limbs and have the tip overlays glued on.

So today I got the tip overlays glued on....Coco over osage. I thinned the limbs down to 1 1/8 inch to 1/2 tips. Rounded over the corners and sanded them down a bit with 80 grit paper. I put it on the scale and we are at 60# right now...WHOOT WHOOT!!! I figure once all sanding is done I will finish out around 56-58# which is perfect!

I hope to get my tips all shaped up tomorrow and maybe cut out the  shelf. Its coming along but its a slow process for being my first. I will put up some pictures tomorrow.

Sounds great, Justin!!  I knew you'd be able to get it down to about 60#.  If it weren't for that boo boo you made on the tip and needing to cut the length it would have been easier.

Looking forward to the pics!

Ya wish it was perfect but as long as I am able to get a shooter I will be happy.

So between pouring rain showers I got my tips roughed shaped and the sight window roughed out as well. The weight right now is 59.80# at 28. The bend in the brace position looks good. Couldn't get any more pictures right now because it started to rain again.

Anyways here are a few pics of where we are at now...
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0629.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0629.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0632.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0632.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0630.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0630.jpg.html)

I have a little more shaping to do to the sting grooves and the sight window where the shelf is but I am happy where I am at. Next its time to take the block riser to a round shaped handle. I will need some advice to shape this thing to get the pressure directly in the middle of the riser and to have it evenly rounded on both sides.

I know John you use a measuring type system to shape the handle. Do ya mind giving me some insight on how this is accomplished.

Thanks guys for all your help!!!

Nice Justin! Are you going to hide the riser in leather?
John described the way to round the handle with facette technique- break the edges slightly as long as edges stay^^

Looking good!

MoeM I haven't decided if I am going to wrap it in leather. Guess it all  depends on the feel of my handle once it is shaped. I would hate to cover the wood because of the looks but we shall see.

Lookin' good Justin   :thumbsup:

Nice Justin.

Hey dudes; do you trap your hillstyles` bellys and how deep are your shelves/windows cut towards center?

:thumbsup:    :thumbsup:

I just round the edges a bit unless i have to reduce poundage, and the shelf on mine is only an arrow width into the riser, but that's just me.

That thing is looking good! Excellent work on the tips and you nailed your weight. Handles are easy,  just keep shaping it till it feels right to your hand and you are done. You are almost there. How does it shoot?
Bonner
.

Haven't shot it yet... Gonna work on the grip if mother nature cooperate sometime soon

Well today I finally got a break in the weather from the rain that has been coming down about every day for the last couple of weeks. Got my handle shaped and took a few shots at half draw because my string is not served and the nocks really wiggle on it right now. I am impressed with the little hand shock I feel. Probably due to the weight of the coco in the handle. I plan on making a string once I finish this post and then shoot it some more before I do any more shaping.
I think that it may be a tad large for my hand so I may have to slim it up some or round over the back some more but we will see once I shoot it a bunch. Sunday is a 3D shoot in my area so I plan on taking the bow unfinished to it and shooting a few rounds with it. Anyways here is some pictures of the handle area.... Comments are needed and welcomed!!!!

 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0646.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0646.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0647.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0647.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0648.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0648.jpg.html)

I still haven't decided if I am going to add a leather wrap to this bow or not. I think if I do I will need to thin down the thickness of the handle and that would round out the grip some more instead of having the front kinda flat.... Time will tell... Now it is time to shoot this thing some so I can finish her up!!

Hey Justin - I've been wondering how your bow was coming along and it's lookin' real nice    :thumbsup:  

Don't be afraid to really round over the corners on the back side of the grip.  On my first bow, I was afraid of cutting the glass narrower than the lams in the grip area and that bow feels like I'm holding a 2 x 4 with slightly rounded edges.  Round till it feels good.  Here's an example of one of mine were you can see how narrow the glass gets on the back of the grip area - about 5/8" wide at the narrowest point.

(http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/jsweka/BowBuild/SAM_0642.jpg)

Ok John I am glad you gave me this picture to see the handle of your bow. If I am not mistaken do you round the lams of bamboo over so that they are rounded over as well so the glass is the only flat area of the bow? If that makes sense... I am going to shape some more and make the grip thinner in width because its just too bulky right now for me. I may also add a layer of osage and coco on the back of the bow and try to shape that as well to get the rounded feeling more. it just looks like my handle needs something else since I have the coco and osage tip overlays.

Looking great! I'm with John, keep shaping till it feels like it should in your hand. Adding a couple overlays will make it look cooler and give you the feel you describe. Be sure to make them long enough to see on either side of a wrap if you decide to add one.

Bonner

Justin - Yes, I round right through the laminations.  I also decrease the width of the riser some too.  Whatever makes it feel good in your hand.  I've gone back and reshaped the grips on some of my bows even after they're all finished just to tweak the grip some.  Some bows I'll put overlays on, some I leave them off.  Just depends on the look I'm going for.

The bow is looking fantastic, great job. This thread is answering some of the questions I have about Hill bows. Hoping to build my first this year.  What type of finish are you going to use?

Type of finish I am not sure of yet. I need something that doesn't need a spray gun cuz I don't have one. I'm sure when I get there we can figure something out.

So yesterday I got back to working on this bow. I glued on some awesome osage and coco riser overlays at 10 inches long. I also sanded off my tip overlays on this bow because they looked awful and I know I could do better. After gluing the pieces on I placed it in the hot box for 4 hours at 150 degrees. I kept it in the box and let it cool slowly overnight.

Once I am done a detail this morning I plan on working at shaping it all up.

I will get some pictures up later on in the day!

Can't wait to see.  Try tru oil for a finish. More you add the nicer it becomes. Dries quick

Well my detail for work lasted 5 hours longer than it should have. Oh well I will take the money and order more material from Kenny lol. I was only able to shape one of the tips which took quite a bit of time... Roughly an hour just for this one. I have to sand in the string groove and clean up the fiberglass still but it looks much better than the first ones I put on.

Roughed in tip...
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0723.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0723.jpg.html)

Here is a question for you glass guys...

I have some scratches and am going to sand the fiberglass starting with 150 all the way to 1500. Now I notice when you sand the fiberglass the shine goes away. Will this come back once the clear coat is applied to the bow????

Back at this bow tomorrow... I am still waiting on my metal braces for the R/D bow before I glue it up. I want my form dead straight and get that 1/16 inch bow gone in it.

Another thing is how do you really clean up the inside string groove of the tips? I want it to have no scratches in them... is it just sitting there for a while and sanding them???

Comments and tips please!!!

Thanks guys.... Justin

Your tip are looking good . I use sand paper on a small file to sand the grooves. I don't think there is any need to go to 1500grit on the bow. I don't go past 320grit ,but I have not made that many bows.

Awesome tips Justin.

I juse cloth backed "paper", 40-400 grit. You can tear it to very narrow stripes like sanding strings.
I love those abrasives for rounding edges at risers etc. too.
Little expensive but worth every single cent!
(soft sanding sponges do work too)

Looks real nice. I wrapped fine grit paper around a nail and go slow and smooth then I grab cotton and buff it and if cotton tears then I go back over spot until I get it smooth

Tips look great Justin!!

Like others have said, you don't need to go down to 1500 grit.  I've gotten scratches out with 320.  And yes, the shine will come back when you apply a finish.  You actually want to sand the glass with fine sandpaper (220 or finer) to knock off the factory shine before applying your finish.

Well that is good to know I don't need to go that fine with sanding. I have sanded the limbs to 600 grit so far but need they are not fully finished. Today I will work on shaping the rest of the overlays on the bow and hopefully shape the handle so it doesn't feel like a 2x4.

Thanks for the comments on the tips. I definitely like them a whole lot better than my first attempt. I did make one mistake when trying to fade the tip overlay into the glass. You can see I made a indentation next on the sides of the glass right next to the tip. I am hoping with rounding over the corners of the glass some more I can even it out so it is not so pronounced. Hopefully today won't be so hot and I can focus on getting this bow wrapped up....

Yep - round the corners of the limbs and those will blend right in.

Ok john I will do that... Boy does it look good with the new overlays!!!!

Looking good   Really like combos

Well it is all shaped!!! Other than some minor final sanding I am super pleased with this bow. Shoots like a dream and with the coco riser and added mass there is no hand shock! I can not thank you guys enough especially jsweka (John) and Kenny M. You guys are true friends and I am very lucky you all are passing along knowledge and experience through this site. Everyone is correct when they say that there is not a site like this one and the fellas on here... Here are some pictures of the bow how it is today!

 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2494.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2494.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2493.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2493.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2495.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2495.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2500.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2500.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/4740acdd-b1cb-4897-aeb2-1e5a1ce5892e.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/4740acdd-b1cb-4897-aeb2-1e5a1ce5892e.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2497.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2497.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2498.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2498.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2499.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2499.jpg.html)

And the first arrow through the bow.... This feeling never gets old!!!!

 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2488.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2488.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMG_2489.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMG_2489.jpg.html)

Again thank you guys!!!

I am going to do the final sanding tomorrow and then put a finish hopefully on Tuesday. I promised the girlfriend that we would head to Maine and hang out at the ocean on Monday. I learned young to keep the lil lady happy  :goldtooth:  

I will add final pictures early next week!!!

Respectfully,
Justin

Just a tip, I've only had to go to 600 grit once on the glass, and that was with coco under clear glass. It seems the darker wood under clear needed finer sanding to get the scratches out so they didn't show through the final finish. Usually I stop at 220-320. A good satin poly finish will hide a lot of stuff. Just make sure its an even "scuff", and you'll be fine.

BTW, love that wood combo. Fantastic job!    :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Thanks John... Boy you are right about the cocbolo. Just wiping it down with denatured alcohol makes me drool. I can't wait to spray this thing already.

Two questions though for you...

1.) Do you just hang the bow by a nock to spray a bow or how do you do it as to get a clean clear coat?

2.)What color ink would look best on the brown glass to ya? I almost think if I can find a mustard yellow or something would look good. White I think would look way off on the brown.

Again thank you john! You truly made this thing possible helping out a novice such as myself. Never could have done it without the direction from you and Kenny....

Oh and the bow is at 57# as it sits right now so with all the hick ups along the way with having to pike it I am very pleased with the poundage!

Justin - YOU made it possible.  I just shared some of my experiences also as a novice.

I use simple satin minwax wipe on polyurethane.  I hang the bow by a nock, wipe on the poly, let dry, steel wool between coats, and then hang from the other nock for the next coat.

As far as inks, I've only used white or black depending on the color of the limbs.  Here's what white looks like over finished brown glass - it's the kids bow I built for this year's St. Jude's Auction.

 (http://i954.photobucket.com/albums/ae23/jsweka/StJudeKidsBow/SAM_0948.jpg)

Justin....that looks sweet....now you got make lefty version  :)

great work, like it!

Very nice work. I guess with a strong wood as Coco you could make  it  more centershot If you wanted to. Bue--.

Thanks fellas! Ok john that white looks good on the brown glass... may be easier for me to find white than it will be to find any other color. Guess I will ask the gf to go to a craft store and pick some up today!

Nice, Justin.

She`s getting quiete fancy for an "A" Hill but turns out great!
The chosen woods/colours really look awesome...

Thanks guys! Got my new jar of in so this bow should be wrapped up on Tuesday! Will have some great pictures up for critique

Thanks guys! Got my new jar of in so this bow should be wrapped up on Tuesday! Will have some great pictures up for critique

One more question on this bow guys... I have read somewhere on here that you need to do a thin coat of CA glue on cocobolo because of the oils and porous grain. Is this true? I am thinking of using a spar urethane and spraying the bow.

Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated!!!

Justin

Yep on sealing the coco, CA or shellac seems to work.

For me it seems to be OK ,first coat, then turns gummy with 2nd coat of poly....

Justin..that is a sweet bow..cant wait to see how your hybrid turns out

Hey guys! So I sprayed the first coat of spar urethane on the bow at around 10 am.... How long does this stuff take to dry? It is still slightly tacky. I also used thin CA glue to cover the entire riser and tip overlays. Then went through 220-600 grit paper to smooth it all out like glass!

Looks really nice with the first coat on eh?
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0731.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0731.jpg.html)

It's ok I guess  :)

That looks sharp. Might take longer to dry with all this rain we got Justin

:clapper:    :clapper:     :clapper:

Thanks guys

Looking good- if it doesn't dry try some bullseye shellac as a sealer.

Very purty   :thumbsup:

Thanks guys! What a pain in the butt it was to get the clear coat to harden. It was tacky even after 24 hours of curing time. I sanded it off and then added a thin layer of CA glue, sanded that and then did another thin coat of clear... same results. I was frustrated with this so I took the bow up to my local small paint shop where I know the owner. I showed him my bow and after looking over my work on building it he handed me a can of sanding sealer. He told me that if this stuff didn't work than nothing would. I went home and followed the directions on how to apply it. Sanded down the bow and did another clear coat. Two hours later SUCCESS!!! The clear is completely hard and looking pretty darn good for the first coat. I plan on lightly buffing the high spots with 0000# steel wool in the morning and then signing the stick... Still dunno what I want to name it or even if I will. Then I will add two more clear coats.

My buddy and LT. at the police department that I work for is a big bow hunter. But he still has wheels. He has seen this bow throughout the building process and has been in aw of it. Since I have another bow in the oven I am going to gift this to him and take away his training wheels. The only stipulation I will put on it is that he must take it to the woods this spring and fall with me so that I may take some pictures of it. Its going to feel real good to pass it along to him because he has no idea that it's going to be his.

I will put up some pictures tomorrow of the finished bow.

What a great gesture! Bow looks terrific too.

dude i love it. im gonna have to build one.

that's a awesome thing your doing for him...good for you bud!!!!!

After re sanding the bow once again and adding two coats of sanding sealer to it I was able to get a beautiful finish with wipe on poly. I don't know if my spar was bad or something which would not let it set up, but after three days I finally just put the final coat of clear on her.

Hopefully it is a beautiful day tomorrow and I can get some finished pictures up of her.

She has her marking now!!!

This is prior to clear coats
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0743.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0743.jpg.html)

Hm I have an similar issue right now- wiped on maritim spar on my hybrid and can sayd "touchable after 4h sandable/next coat after 14h"- 24h have passed and it still feels soft and sticky...
I`d still prefer oil/wax if it would do same protection and not wipe away my wifes beautiful signing!

I let the ink dry and did two coats over it... Still looks fresh with no issues even with the wipe on poly.

that is sweet!!!!!!! great job

Yes I guess poly is not that solvent as oil!?

He'll of a nice bow! Way to go!

Bonner

Well today I took this bow out for its first time at a 3D shoot. Man did she shoot nice! Here are some final pictures of the bow. Best I can get right bow being that they were taken from my phone.


Comments Welcomed!!!

 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0765.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0765.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0766.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0766.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0767.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0767.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0768.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0768.jpg.html)

Last target....
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0769.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0769.jpg.html)
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0770.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0770.jpg.html)

Thank you to the guys here on TradGang!!!
 (http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/IMAG0772.jpg) (http://s1177.photobucket.com/user/bowhntineverythingnh03743/media/IMAG0772.jpg.html)

Respectfully,

Justin
New Hampshire

Dude. That looks awesome. You did a great job

Thanks bud... One of those side quivers would look great with this bow ;-)... Just saying

Justin, you did a heck of a good job on that!  :thumbsup:    :thumbsup:

Side quiver coming bud

Thanks art... We can figure somethin out for it

I guess it's Ok:)

Thanks guys!!! Means a lot you guys like it!

Ya done well Justin and I bet you were real proud to be carrying that bow on the 3D range.  You should be.

Excellent work!

Thanks guys... it was awesome to be shooting this bow at the 3d shoot John. I have one this weekend which I will be taking my new R/D I finished yesterday. Hope to get a few pictures up after it.

Well done sir.  I'm excited by all these Hill style builds happening.  Good stuff!

Great work!!!