1. Anyone tried the 2A+1B mixture of Smooth-on and if so how did it work?
2.How do you get a beavertail to fit over a locater type grip? No matter how much I soak and stretch the dang thing I can't get a nice tight fit in the narrow part of the grip. :knothead: :banghead: Bob
Me to would like pointers on installing leather grips.
There's only so much you're gonna be able to do with them. They're not as stretchy as some other leathers.... like deer... my favorite.
My bow's handles have shape to them but no throat or locator and beaver tails barely, just barely pull tight on my handle. Same with snapping turtle skin... very cool looking but not very stretchy... at least not the ones I tanned.
On curvy handles I get the thinest beavertail I can find. Wrap the bow above, thru the handel, and below with plastic wrap. Soak the beavertail in warm water. wrap it around the grip as tight as you can, using clamps on the back where I'm eventually going to stich it.
Let it dry, then do the process over some times 3 and 4 times. When I get it stretched as much as I think it will, I trim it to where it looks right, punch the holes and get it ready to install.
Tanned deer hide is the best. And ya can get it in different colors.
4runr, a tight Beaver would hurt ya son:)
No pain, no gain ;)
you can shave (flesh side) some of the leather at the bend in handle and then soak again and then wrap around handle and use a ace bandage and tightly wrap and let dry..works everytime for me when i do a curvy handle
That's another thing... be gentle when stitching. It's fragile. Whether you punch holes or simply push through it with a needle, don't pull it too tight while you're stitching or it'll tear before ya know it. It's really durable once it's on... makes a durable strike plate too.
Wet a piece thats too long and too wide. Wrap it around the handle so the extra goes above the arrow shelf and overlaps in the front. Now wrap the whole thing with an ace bandage. The next day you can mark everything you want to cut off. Now in the front, razor through one piece while marking the under side down the front to get a good mate.
If this is clear as mud, call me. 910-783-6002
I also glue a narrow second layer on the back side along where the holes go for stitching. saves ripping out when you tighten your stitches.
if it is tanned, it usually is chrome tanned. veg tanned leather usually has better formability and mouldability.
chrome tan usually retains a better memory, and is tougher to wet form, when chrome is formed, it is usually done with heat and pressure- as in the lasting of shoes!
veg forms real easy with water.
obviously the natural stretch in the hide is a factor too!
any body ever tried ( now i gotta be careful here!!) puttin the beavertail on untanned(rawhide). bet it will be a lot more malleable!
i aint never dun no beaver befor- jus askin :eek:
I have used the two to one ratio on numerous bows with good results. I build most of my bows using a 60/40 ratio. You never know when somebody will leave a bow strung in a hot vehicle in the dessert with the exterior temperature well over a 100 degrees.
Thanks Walt.Exactly what I was thinking, a little more heat tolerence can't be bad. Bob