How will IPE work for a limb core glass bow
JT-It works great.Used it on a 62"hybrid i wanted dark limbs on.Only bad thing is i got some streaks in the clear glass that stuck out like a sore thumb.I held the glass up to the light and didn't see any but they showed up at finish-Joe
I am sure it will work. It would not be your best choice for core because of the weight. A lighter core such as A-boo or maple even actionwood will get a better perfoming bow. If it is the ipe color you want you can grind out some veneers to go under the glass. As stated above dark wood under clear glass will show all the flaws and sometimes will be so dark that the grain does not show.
I would add walnut to the list for a darker color and a good corewood to boot. Still have the flaws showing up.
I second the walnut. Ipe is pretty dense and I think it would make a heavier limb than the maples, walnuts, and A-boo.
I 3rd the walnut. I've used it several times and really like the way it looks and shoots.
Troy
Up until recently I would have said it's too heavy but the flu slowed me down. Sitting in the lazy boy gave me time to think over some of the "facts" that we all know are true.
Osage makes a fine glass backed bow & it's pretty darn heavy. So is glass but straight limb glass backed bows will usually outperform a st limb, wood bow.
I do know for a "fact" that fiberglass is made with fibers. Put a clear piece against a dark background and you can see the fibers and any other faults in the resin.
One of the more memorable bows I've built had a .125" Purpleheart lamination for a core and Birdseye Maple for the back and belly. This was a very light weight bow that really threw an arrow quickly. Purpleheart is heavy.
Try the Ipe for a core wood and get back to us. I'm very interested in the outcome. My only suggestion is to reduce your normal stack a bit. A thin Ipe backed with Bamboo makes a pretty stout bow. I expect it will do the same between glass.