Ok so I'm on here all the time and I know I ask a billion questions but I'm new and excited to this. well I just built my first bow and I used a cut in arrow shelf, for my next one I think I'm gonna use the floppy rest method. I know whenyou do a cut in shelf your supposed to cut to center or up to 1.50 in above. well with a floppy rest does it have to be centered or can it be to the side of center? Thank you
Hey! Good to see you asking again! :)
I'm gonna use a floppy rest or a win&win bearing rest. Go check win&win rest up.
I can't cut mine to center, cause I'm cutting an ambidextrous shelf. Your question will help me tons too!
Thanks for asking mate!
Not a problem man just hoping some the guys on here can provide some helpful answers without getting annoyed at me asking so many questions lol
Exactly. I feel annoying when I see my name repeat everywhere...
Well, then again, to your question, I believe if you want a centre shot, it's better to beyond the centre-line. Basically that will ensure that your arrow is in line with your now when you nock it.
We are talking center of the bow from tip to tip right. In other words, if you have a 68" bow, the center is at 34" from the tip. The closer you can get to the center of the bow the more balanced it will be. However, depending on your grip, it is more practical to have it above center.
Think of a bow as a teeter totter. Your hand is the part that the teeter totter rests on. It is known as the fulcrum. The closer your fulcrum is to the center of the bow, the better. And the closer your arrow rests is to the fulcrum, the better. But it is literally a balancing act because everything can't be at the fulcrum.
There are about 100 other factors but that's enough for now.
This may help: http://hedgerowselfbows.webs.com/fromblanktobow.htm
Ah I see that I got carried away on the mention of a shelf...
Pardon me!
I use a bulbous handle style and floppy reat. I set up my bows symmetrically, meaning the center of the bow is the center of the handle. Once I finish shaping the handle I grasp it as I would to shoot the bow and mark the top of my bow hand. This is where the arrow pass goes.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=006926;p=1
Take a look at the one I did, a fine shooter, it is shot "off the knuckle" and has no shelf,
Off the knuckle, that sounds interesting. Won't the fletching come into contact?
If I decide to do away with a shelf, can I just install flipper slightly above the knuckle or the throat area?
Yes, that is my normal way on a self bow that I have not added a shelf to.
Ok so can the floppy rest be to the left of center (right handed) meaning the string and arrow rest won't be in line?
If your arrows are set up to the bow and your style of shooting your bow can be center shot or a wide handle like the early NA bows. Its all in the arrows.
Like Pat said you'll have to fit the arrows to the bow.
When I use a floppy rest I'll sometimes remove some wood on the side it is going. Left side for right handlers. This moves it in toward the center slightly maybe 1/8 inch.
On other bows that I feel,are too narrow at the handle to cut in a full rest I will cut in a small rest like 1/4 inch then build up leather saturated in CA glue to make a full rest.
Here is what I do, Justin. I build a rest out of leather.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6715.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6717.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_6716.jpg)
Ok cool. well right now I'm just using a carbon fiber arrow from Wal-Mart until I'm more experienced and can make my own
Justin, look up some threads on arrow spine and how that affects shooting. Each bow has specific spine of arrow that will work with it. The closer to center the arrow shelf is cut the stiffer the relative spine can be. He wider the handle the weaker the spine. Also the heavier poundage of bow the stiffer the arrow. Your wally world arrows are great for initial shooting fun but are unlikely to be real accurate. Learn spine and be a better shooter, grasshopper.
lol thanks razorback ill take that into consideration. yeah the wally world (havnt heard it called that in years) fling around all over the places. granted i only have one and i only got to shoot it about 10 times max. but ill look into some different arrow types. thank you...master razorback lol
You go round calling me master and I'll have to change my handle to Yoda or something. Hahaha.
Next I'll have old Roy making fun of me.
Lol that's some funny stuff
Whitehawk -
Nothing wrong with the carbon arrows from Walmart. They are made by carbon express - they may not be quite to the quality or tolerances of some of the higher end arrows, but they will shoot just fine. I have several of the one they call the thunderstorm. With 135 grain Zwickys up front they shoot very well out of several of my 40-50# self bows shooting off a built up shelf like the one Roy posted. I removed the vanes and re-fletched with some feathers.
Also, you will find them difficult to shoot out of a self bow with the vanes they come with.
Good luck on the next one!
Mitch
Thanks Mitch. i might look into re fletching them
Mitch, didn't mean to suggest that the carbons Justin has can't shoot well, just that they are unlikely to be spined right for his bow. Heck I shoot dowels, aluminums, bamboo, you name it. Almost anything that is somewhat straight will make an arrow and shoot well if it is tuned to the bow. I havn't shot carbons but I may try them wally World ones to see how I like them.
OH, So Master Trad Guy from Big Goose, NY is gonna shoot wally world carbons? :)
WOO-HOO >>>========================> :archer2:
All my bows are bulbous handled. So far, all of them have 2" fades + the 4" handle section and are generally 1" wide at the narrowest point before final shaping, so they'll be a little less than that when done. I also make my upper limb anywhere from 1 to 1-1/2" longer, but that's a different debate. The bulbous handle will feel best resting within relatively the same area in your grip, each time you shoot. When I shoot my bows in, there's no rest, just shoot off the knuckle for awhile. Once I have a string nock positioned for best flight and shoot a little more, there's a nice little mark left behind at the bottom of the fade, showing my arrow pass. I position my floppy rest (the only way to go IMO) so the arrow will pass there, then finish the handle wrap.
Cool thanks tom
No problem razor - just wanted to let him know that he could prob get them to work without having to go out and buy something new. The price is right especially when they go on clearance at the end of the year. :biglaugh:
Yup. and since I'm in the military I just gone on post and get em 3 bucks a piece :D