What now? :) I guess I flipped them a little too much? Will I have to add some brush buster underlay type things?
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo247/Buxndiverdux/photo-58.jpg)
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo247/Buxndiverdux/photo-54.jpg)
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo247/Buxndiverdux/photo-55.jpg)
This might take 3 or 4 more Coors Lights to figure out. I know I can always cut some off the bends and make it work, but I'm looking for ideas other than that. Its 66" tip to tip.
Just file a groove down the center of the limb on the belly.
Here's a pic of one I had to file a groove on -
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8081/8254885685_bf6f633f20_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8068/8215101313_58610b0e3b_z.jpg)
Only 3 or 4 Coors Lights? Heck - I make my best Bows after about 10 Coors Lights. I think.. :laughing:
Ok. Filed the groove in the belly. That worked. Now I have both tips twisted in opposite directions and the tiller is off kinda bad. I checked the weight and it is currently 47lbs @ 23". Id like to be around 45-50 at 27". Its gonna be close. Any ideas on straightening the tips?
The end....
(http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/oo247/Buxndiverdux/photo-60.jpg)
Ouch, sorry Mitch. I know the feeling.
I hate to see that.
Sorry for your loss. That's what coors light will do. :nono:
Stick to whiskey and leave the bullets out.
ouch hate to see that. i bet you alrady got another idea for the next one. keep at it
and easy on the whiskey. its been known to give some people a more agressive tillering style so to speak. FYI ;)
Recurves can be real tricky to pull off. I usually end up tweaking the tips a few times before I get them to line up under stress. You should be sure the core lines up tip to tip and the tips each line up with the limb before glueing up with a backing. If the tips twist opposite or one or both are out of line that has to be fixed before you add too much stress of stringing. low brace is enough to see the problem without over stressing the bow. That latteral movement will have adverse affects on the bow sooner or later with recurves.
Lots of great info here!
Honestly Mitch, I think you flipped them tips a tad too much. Were are talking wood bows here. Wood is tricky enough without doing a wild static recurve like that. But it was really exciting when she blew apart, wasn't it? LOL.. I am sorry, and I feel your pain. I am laughing with you, not at you. God knows I have watched Many Bows explode on the tree:) It used to really hurt, now I just laugh about it.
Roy laughs a lot. :laughing:
I've only done a couple static tips on osage...but I was gonna say, shortening the tips to reduce any torque leverage. Does that make sense? If your going with longer curves, then make them working curves. Otherwise, and especially with a stave with any character, those long tips when strung will pull to the weak sides easily.
When I was helping Brent Rudolph develop those Sheepeater bows, we had to reduce our static tip length a bit, even with the glass.
That design is way above my experience level, but I just figured I could do it. LOL... The failure and the warped tips was most likely my fault. I was exercising it at the target and trying not to draw it past where I had it on the tree. I shot it maybe 15 times before she blew. It sounded like a .22LR when she went. It had a very nice feel and very little hand shock. I did manage to get the tips close before I tryed shooting it. Oh well. I guess I will get going on another one when I get a spare hour or two. I gotta find a cheaper place to get Osage. I really like the way it works compared to Hickory.
It was lookin' good, too!