I need some assistance, have a customer wanting to make a 50s style curve , 60" long, lets say 45# @ 28" , got any ideas on stack and taper rate?
Thanks much,
kenny
Hopefully Trux will chime in, he has built several of those. I have one similar to the one Trux builds, but I have it loaned out at the moment.
Thanks Jess!!
Kenny here's what works with mine. Its got a 20" riser- 1 taper at. 002, 2 parallels and. 040 glass with a total stack of 310. Everything 1.5" to start- this puts me close to 45#s@28.
Thanks David!! What if you wanted 1.75" width?
Did you by chance do a build on this one? :)
QuoteOriginally posted by kennym:
Thanks David!! What if you wanted 1.75" width?
I'd have to guess less than 310 for the stack-lol- (sorry not much help with that width)
This one also has a straight taper from the fades to the tips like a long bow.
Kenny - I made a couple in this style at 1.75". They were 58" bows and had a 21 inch riser. A stack of .235 made a 50# bow. I had one taper at .002 and one parallel.
-Jay
This is one I built it is a little shorter 56", 1.75",18" riser. .244 total stack .030 glass back, .050 glass on belly, one parallel, one .001 taper. 51# 29". I made the form off of a Pearson
(http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/2manydogs_photos/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo0620.jpg)
Kenny, based on my calculation...if Trux's .310 will get you 45# with a 1.5" lam width, a 1.75" lam width (with the same .310 stack) should yield a 52.6# bow.
Thus using the old lam stack calculator, a .295 lam stack would be needed to get you 45# with the 1.75" width lam, (same riser and taper rate as mentioned by Trux).
As we all know mileage varies with different forms, different bowyer styles, etc.
Hey Brad,
Can you run it for 65# @ 28 with a 1.75 " limb width? Little mistake on weight.
Thanks a bunch guys!!
Hi Kenny, for me:
60" bow
Limb: 1 7/16" - 11/16"
Butt stack: .320 = 45# +/- AMO/ATA @ 28 "
Total taper: .004
Virgil.
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/004.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/IMG_2936.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/IMG_7792copie2.jpg)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/Jl001.jpg)
Virgil- awesome bows!! Got to have some more details on that take down system on the last one.
Robertson connexion is my guess. I have a Schafer longbow with the connection modified and inlaid into the handle that is super slick. By inlaying it, Dave was able to put overlays on and it is 90% hidden. No need for a leather wrap like above.
QuoteOriginally posted by Walt Francis:
Robertson connexion is my guess. I have a Schafer longbow with the connection modified and inlaid into the handle that is super slick. By inlaying it, Dave was able to put overlays on and it is 90% hidden. No need for a leather wrap like above.
Trux, exactly what Walt has explain.
But after many year of using the connexion hinge I change for the sleeve who is 100% hidden.
The only "problem" with the hinge is that you can do the best hiding job you can, it will always be seen.
ps: Sorry Kenny ;-)
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj31/upnorthphoto/tradgang/sleeve-td.jpg)
Holly Mackerel Virgil, those are absolutely Beautiful. I am a hugh 50's style recurve fan and they are very elegant.
I am keeping my eyes on this one. A 50's recurve is on my to do list.
No problem Virgil!! Beautiful bows! Thanks for the input guys!!
Sorry for the delay Kenny.....when I run it at 65# @ 28" I am getting a .335 but thickness
No prob Brad!! Thank you very much buddy!!
Kenny, we build an old style 56" recurve called the Wildcatt, one paralell and one taper at .200. 250 gives us about a 48 lb bow. Don't know if this helps but it might. You might have to work the math on a 60"/ Bob.