Well, this bow was a 1st on many levels. This was my 1st glue up, 1st floppy rest, 1st horn-tip overlays, 1st hemp handle, 1st bow over 64" and 1st string I've made. I learned quite a bit from this bow as I have with the other bows I've made. It's 66" from tip to tip and came in at 55lb @ 28 with a rounded belly. I did put a coat of stain on him because I wanted to add some color to the hickory backing. It was a mahogany and it turned out alright IMO. It took some set, which is about par for the course for me. That's something I'm trying to work on, but I realize that the only way to probably correct this is with heat before hand. It shoots pretty well, but it took some getting used to. The more I shoot it, the better I like it and the more I learn about its temperment towards arrow spine....like all bows I suppose. This is the 2nd bow I've built in the last month, so I'm proud of that. Shows I'm getting a little more efficient. Once again, I'd like to thank everyone here who posts. It would be awful tough to do it without you guys. Enjoy....I did.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/IMG_3071.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/IMG_3074.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/IMG_3075.jpg)
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/IMG_3077.jpg) (http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/IMG_3081.jpg)
Not sure why that handle pic is so big. I reduced his size down before I posted.
Another nice one. Good job. I like the stain.
Very nice.
I'm not sure how you glued it up but next time put in a little "Perry reflex" (put reflex in the bow during the glue-up). With laminated bows you do not use heat but rather bend your pieces into the reflex/deflex you want during glue-up. You will get a bit of bounce back so adjust for that.
I will normally put about 4" of reflex into a bow like that. After I remove it from the form I will have 2.5"-3" of reflex. After tillering/shooting I end up with 1-2" of final reflex.
Hope this helps for next time.
Tenbrook
BTW Nice Ipe ;)
Thanks I appreciate it. Cody, good info. Could you show me an example of that or where I could find some more info about it? Wasn't sure how to go about adding reflex after glue up....I was afraid it would make the glue hot, and release. I appreciate the help. Thanks for the Ipe. :)
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=40;t=000110
This is a good build along. It helped get me started.
Dave.
sweet looking bow.
I guess it's OK:)
But your tips are very thick, I would slim them down on the next bow. Tiller looks very sweet.
Thanks guys. Roy do you mean narrow the tips or narrow thickness from back to belly?
Tiller looks really good Nice looking bow
Looks like you are learning.
Hands on is the best.
Nice bow.
Rob
Nlester never posted it here but he shot a nice doe with this bow he made!
QuoteOriginally posted by nlester:
Well, I was fortunate enough to get a shot on a nice lead doe last evening. She came in at about 10 yds and I made the shot count. This was a bow I made from Ipe that I got from tenbrook(Cody Dumont). I couldn't be any happier. This site makes something like this all possible. Thanks for looking!
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w217/tennjed9/MeandDeer.jpg)
narrow from back to belly- i would think- how wide are they anyway- look pretty slim.
one wants to get the tip weight down as much as possible- without getting whip tillered- fine balance.
to reduce hand shock and to improve cast.
i like to glue in some reflex at glue up- pretty easy to do.
bow looks great- and the most important thing, it obviously works!!!
Very nice bow! I like the stain on the hickory.
What is the width of the tips? I'd narrow them to .5" at most, and slim them up from the belly.
Good job!
Looks great. It takes about 60 grns of weight loss at the tip to increase arrow speed 1 fps. I would leave it alone if you're happy with it.
Nice bow
Nice banner also ;)