I keep tossing around the idea of making a Hill style bow, but I think it may be a little tougher than I am thinking. I was thinking about making the form as flat as I can (not reflex or deflex).
When this bow comes out I would like to be able to look down the back of the bow and see no curves or anything strange.
I have never checked this because every bow form I make has some curve to it, but when you use the air hose method does the pressure cause the form to bend or flex? If so would this show up in the profile in the back of the bow?
I was thinking about making top of the form much thinner 3-4" at the thinnest point to hopefully do the flexing opposed to the part of the form where the bow mates.
Next, what is the best way to get a 72" piece of LVL perfectly flat? My table saw only has about a 3' deck/ fence so I dont think the table saw is the answer, but I think I may use it to do the initial cut and and then use the planer along with some rollers to make the final form surface....
Please let me know how you do it and what you think.
A straightedge, laser , and router to get the straight edge?
Fast and wise you are kenny... you deserve a break
Fast and wise you are kenny... you deserve a break
Oh God Help Me. I just fell off my chair and can't reach my beer for laffen my a$$ off:)
Howard Hill prolly just rolled over and bumped his head on his casket roof with the mention of all dat high tech stuff just to make a hill bow... :laughing:
Make a real bow Ralph, use a string and a lead pencil, ok and maybe a straight edge and a square:)
Somebody help that geezer , or at least hand him his beer down there!! :laughing:
Thank you, Mr Ralph.
Ralph, if you have access to a shop with a big jointer, that would do the trick in a couple of minutes. Most big machines have 7' or longer tables and would get your beam dead flat.
Dave.
David, while a great idea I have no access... After what Kenny said I believe I have a piece of 8' corrian that has a factory edge on one side :) .
I am still concerned about the flex of the form transferring to the bow... and I may be a little concerned about Roy...
Rmorris the form i have for HH type bows doesnt seem to be affected at all by pressure from the air hose, but being straight laid, and as I grind my tapers to the centerline of each lam meaning they meet the riser as a taper to flat surface, I always get about 1/4- 1/2'' string follow on them.This doesnt seem to affect performance at all.
Alright, so I finally finished up hill bow #2 and3
#2 is a cocobolo riser with coco veneers it is 64" and 23# @23"
#3 is mine and is cocobolo riser with pau rosa veneers, it is 68" and is 57# @ 30"
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/buckskinbows/1A977531-AF96-4D0E-9140-B8D9860B5FF1-2445-0000042477E7749F.jpg)
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/buckskinbows/029BFB81-F29F-439D-A534-E3550ECFD979-2445-000004247083BB17.jpg)
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/buckskinbows/6547DC73-47E8-4892-B500-7458443E7576-2445-00000424A5C633B7.jpg)
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/buckskinbows/FDD16E3F-DEF9-441E-884B-25F039F39B7A-2445-000004249C0BD421.jpg)
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee465/buckskinbows/B887A18E-9732-4C26-9BEB-5B5FBDDE56FC-2445-00000424951EDE8A.jpg)
All I need to do now is get a leather grip on my bow and let some arrows fly.
Looking good Ralph.
Sweet as! Man those veneers are crazy!
Nice bows, Ralph! How do they shoot?
A perfectly flat form will not yield a perfectly stright bow. Once you string it up you will notice a bit of string follow that will remain throughout the life of the bow. Makes for a sweet shooting bow.
Stan , the 23# bow shoots like a dream! And I have not got the chance to fling many arrows out of the big boy. I am going to try to finish up that bow today and give ya an update .
Mike, I am getting about 5/8" of backset on the 68" bows but I love how they shoot. I think they look pretty cool unstrung also.
If my new 57#er shoots anything like the first one I made(35#) it is going to be my new hunting bow.
Oooooo Baby!! Now those are what I call longbows!! Ya done real well, Ralph. :bigsmyl:
Very nice! :thumbsup:
Dave.
Dave , thanks.
John, I was thinking if you got my name this year I would be the lucky guy
Nice work Ralph, those are some beauties!
-Jay
Nice work Ralph!
Ralph, the Hills look great, but it was too much for your dog, he passed out!
Nice job bro!!
Saaaaweeeeet Ralph... I like it!!!
Great work man- I love those straight-enders anyway and the veneers look awesome.
Maybe this is right place for a short question- how you, and you guys generally, keep it with the riser placement?
(best for me seems to put riser middle 1" below bow middle for dished, straight and slight locator style grips to get pressurepoint right and shelf to the end of upper glass belly- as close to center as possible. Limblength difference comes up to 2" which gave me the perfect advance for bottom limb. So bottom Grip area is approx 4"; suitable for most hands when using wrist turn grip)
Very nice! I hope I can turn some out like that when I try soon...
Moritz, if I understand you question correctly, I have a black mark on my 72" form at 36" and that is the center of the form. I also have a red mark 3/4" down (towards the lower limb) and that is where I center the riser for glue up. Before I glue up the bow I make another red mark on the center my riser and all my laminations so that I know everything is lined up during glue up. This 3/4" offset gives me a limb length difference of 1-1/2" opposed to your 2". Sometime I may try a 1' offset to see how that works.
Once I have all the back laminations including the riser ready with epoxy and laying in the form I take some tape and wrap it around the form and over the belly side of the riser where there is no epoxy and that does a good job of keeping things in place while I put epoxy on the belly laminations and get them in place.
I hope that answers your questions and thanks everyone for the kind comments.
David, I am sure you will knock em out of the park! These bows are the easiest bows I have made so far. The tiller was easier than most and I feel like I learned more about tillering why making these bows because all the variables associated with curves in a limb are taken away.
Those look awesome, Ralph! The veneers are beautiful as well. Great job! :notworthy:
Great job on the Hill style bows Ralph. Excellent choice of woods.