I have some cedars that shoot great out of my selfbows of about 50lb at 28".
With wooden arrows is it usually 5-10 lighter in spine than draw weight?
It is usually five for me with 190 tips.
It so hard to predict. That's why a test kit of 2 or 3 different spines comes in so handy. If i had to make a guess I'd 40-45 with 125 grain points. It's just a guess though. Jawge
I'd say 40 - 45 also.
What Jawge said is right on about test shafts. Too many variables to say. It all depends on the handle and arrow pass, shelf or no shelf, point weight, etc.
I usually end up around the same spine weight as what my bow weight is but I shoot anything from 145 to 200 grains up front. The lighter the head I choose to shoot the weaker the shaft and vice versa.
Good luck.
Thanks guys.
My bows shoot poundage spined arrows the best at my 26" draw. If I went along with common notion of shooting 10# under spine, my arrows would come out sideways underspined.
My bows usually have a bulbous handle. Is there a way to check the spine of my cedars w/o a spine tester?
QuoteOriginally posted by Eric Krewson:
My bows shoot poundage spined arrows the best at my 26" draw. If I went along with common notion of shooting 10# under spine, my arrows would come out sideways underspined.
Exactly. My 50# @ 28" bows shoot 50-55", 29" arrows. I use FF strings exclusivley and that does change things.
Seems like i remember someone posting an algorithm of sorts to figure proper arrow spine given several variables. You have to keep in mind that shortening an arrow effectively raises the spine (makes it stiffer) just like putting on a lighter tip. I think the spine ratings are given for a standard 28" shaft, but I may be mistaken.
Here is a post from a similar discussion, not the one i was talking about, but there's a calculator:
QuoteOriginally posted by walkabout:
heres the site i got mine from. it takes a little bit to figure it out but if you download the instructions they explain it pretty well. anything that doesnt make sense right away feel free to pm me with questions and ill see what i can do. http://www.heilakka.com/dynamic.htm easiest thing to remember is that longer shafts will have a lower spine than a shorter shaft, so this is the easiest thing to tune with. like i said earlier i used it to build arrows for my bendy handle bow and the wider handle is really no longer a handicap with the arrows i built with the info.
How about on rivercane shafts? I notice that my arrows shoot better cock feather in with my selfbows.
You can start on the stiff side and the sand the middle of the shaft until you get good flight. I don't know about cane. Jawge
I havent shot wood arrows out of my bows only carbons (please forgive me) but I'd say factors are: riser cutout amount, recurve/reflex, draw length, string material, shooting technique, and bow performance per pound. I'm with George, test test test test test ...
Firstly, there are many variables that can counter a generalized statement. But in my experience owning and shooting many longbows and selfbows of various lengths and styles usually at 46-52# draw weights at 28", I have always successfully used 45-50 spine (measured the old school way at 26" with the 2# weight)cut to 29" with 125-140 field tips or broadhaeds. Arrow length as well as FOC weight will have the most affect on any needed adjustment provided that all the shafts have been verified at 45-50 and have a tight weight range within the group. Regards, Ray